Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
  1. #1

    98 Seadoo GS - Carb Issues....I think!!!

    Here is basic the rundown.....

    A few weeks back my wife's 98 Seadoo GS start to surge at WOT but was fine at 1/2 and idled great. When you went from 1/2 to WOT it would start to plane then act like you were going on and off the throttle repeatedly. As a similar thing happened a few years back requiring a small filter to be changed in the carburetor I decided to get some cleaner in hopes I could fix it as all the dealers were closed for the long weekend. I started the engine and sprayed the carburetor cleaner directly into the carb as per the instructions while trying to keep it from stalling. Once I sprayed a good amount in I took it for a ride but nothing had changed other than it was starting far better than before. At this point, I put it away for the weekend and took it into the dealer to be repaired.

    At the dealer......

    After being charged 200 dollars, I was told they thought it was just bad gas. They said they cleaned out the fuel filter, put in some fresh gas and that it seemed to run fine but was hitting the rev limiter in the shop when they tested it. Further more they said each cylinder had 130 psi, the wear ring was in great shape and that the engine had 145 hours on it in total. They went on to say that if this happened again that the carburetor would need to be rebuilt.

    At the lake.........

    At this point I took it back to the lake and gave it to the wife so we could go for the last ride of the season and enjoy the day. Unfortunately, it was now worse than before making me VERY unpopular with the wife!!! Now, it would start and idle fine but when going on the throttle at any point it would start to plane then the engine would completely die out!!!

    Back at the dealer.......
    I was told by the service manager that something most likely had now plugged one of the jets and that the carb would need to be rebuilt or replaced!!! He was not sure what the rebuild kit would cost but he said a new carb would run 1800.00!! When I told him that it was now worse than when I originally brought it to him to begin with his reply was "Yea that happens from time to time with this sort of issue but it's not our fault, all we did was put in fresh gas" I said then if that is all you did why is it now worse? After staring at me for a few seconds he replied "I dunno....it just happens sometimes".

    My Questions.......

    1. Is he a idiot or is this entirely plausible and I was just being really intolerant with him and his replies?
    2. Am I on the right track thinking it's a carburetor/fuel issue? (I know it's really hard to diagnose without seeing it)
    3. Can I get a rebuild kit from someone here as I know there are some of you out there that do this stuff?
    4. Better yet, what would it cost me to get an already rebuilt carb that I could just swap out as 1800.00 would just cause me to get a new machine and be done with it.

    Thanks in advance for all the help.......I need all I can get!!!


  2. #2
    Anyone??? Anything would be helpful

  3. #3
    Myself's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,771
    +1
    129
    Don't take it back there because they obviously don't know what they are doing. Does your GS still have the original grey fuel lines? It sounds to me like the internal filter in the carb is plugged. I'm sure your fuel switch has some gunk in it too. As for dying completely out when trying to gas it you may also have an accelerator pump issue. Take off the airbox assembly and the flame arrestor screen so you can see down into the carb. Stab the throttle and you should see a nice stream of fuel squirting from the acc pump nozzle. Dis-assemble and clean out the fuel switch, and replace the fuel supply line. And dis-assemble and clean out the carb, then reset mixture screws and you'll be good to go. Even with no experience you can do the whole thing in about 3 hours.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Don't take it back there because they obviously don't know what they are doing. Does your GS still have the original grey fuel lines? It sounds to me like the internal filter in the carb is plugged. I'm sure your fuel switch has some gunk in it too. As for dying completely out when trying to gas it you may also have an accelerator pump issue. Take off the airbox assembly and the flame arrestor screen so you can see down into the carb. Stab the throttle and you should see a nice stream of fuel squirting from the acc pump nozzle. Dis-assemble and clean out the fuel switch, and replace the fuel supply line. And dis-assemble and clean out the carb, then reset mixture screws and you'll be good to go. Even with no experience you can do the whole thing in about 3 hours.
    That is what I was thinking but I was just not sure if I was just frustrated with the results. I do have the original lines but planned on replacing them as well. Do you know of anyone here that may have a rebuild kit or better yet, have a rebuilt carb for sale???

  5. #5
    I would R&R and rebuild crabs 16hrs a day 7 days a week if I could $1800 ea. Until I was rich that is.
    The hardest part about rebuilding the carb is getting the screws out. You might have to tap the screw driver a bit with a small hammer. It's mostly just gaskets, orings and gaskets. Get some carb cleaner a rebuild kit that includes the fuel pump parts. Wash out all the jets & needle. Leave original spring to needle. There is an Oring at needle base in kit don't forget to replace it. There is a transparent check valve on jets cover plate that's easy to miss as well. My last carb had 2 different check valve sizes that might of been easy to swap by mistake. Change out fuel lines with non injector type fuel line 1/4''. Leave the vent lines gray they will be fine. Video shows removing adjustment needles i would leave them unless carb was terribly gummed up.

  6. #6
    Myself's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,771
    +1
    129
    It's really a piece of cake, you can do it. If at any time you can't figure something out just post up a pic and we'll straighten you out. Don't buy a kit or anything until you take the carb apart. 90% of them just need a good cleaning. As 153stars said tap screws a couple times with a small hammer first before trying to unscrew them. Usually the internal screws on the jet cover are the worst. I put a #2 phillips bit in a 1/4" socket and smack it good a couple times then put my small ratchet on there and while pressing down on the ratchet unscrew at the same time. This usually breaks them loose without boogering them up at all. Remove all rubber parts before spraying carb cleaner. The carb cleaner has a way of expanding the rubber and the o'rings and stuff will be too big. You will also need a few q-tips for cleaning out the fuel line nip ples, but you will pull 1/2 the cotton off them first so they will fit in. Just let us know when you get it all apart and we'll go from there. Or you can buy a brand new carb ready to go for about $250.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    It's really a piece of cake, you can do it. If at any time you can't figure something out just post up a pic and we'll straighten you out. Or you can buy a brand new carb ready to go for about $250.
    Thanks for the replies, this is exactly what I was looking for!! I am sure I can figure out how to rebuild the carburetors and will film it being taken apart but it is nice to know that I can get some help on here if needed. Also, I am going to replace the original grey fuel lines as well while I am at it.

    As a side question, where can I get a new carburetor ready to go for 250.00? One thing I have learned over the last month with all the issues I have experienced is that parts for this machine are not only VERY expensive here in Canada but also VERY scarce!!! It may not hurt to have some extra "replacement parts" on the side for the future or on standby for a quick hot swap if needed.

    Cheers,
    Dean

  8. #8
    Myself's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,771
    +1
    129

  9. #9
    Thanks for the link!!! I definitely think I will be stockpiling an extra carb in addition to a few other parts. I assume though that the 1999 listed on the website is the same one they used in 1998. Also, do you know the name of the speaker that chirps when you put in the key? I tried to fine it on the site as well but was unable to

  10. #10
    Myself's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,771
    +1
    129
    Yes, carb is the same. As far as buzzer, check this out. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthrea...o-shack-beeper

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 95 sl750 carb issue I think
    By tophat595 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-09-2015, 08:50 AM
  2. 98 seadoo gs 720/ trailer issues
    By dave13f in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-12-2013, 07:46 AM
  3. 98 717 GTI carb issues
    By caliburn in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-27-2013, 12:54 PM
  4. 98 seadoo gs wont start with start button
    By XP537 in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 10-16-2011, 08:57 PM
  5. carb issue I think
    By crmikey47 in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-28-2009, 08:14 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •