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  1. #1

    2000 polaris virage stopping

    I just purchased a 2000 virage 700. it was rebuilt with about 20 hours on engine.

    took it out for the first time and it ran good until trying to restart after stopping. Once going it ran great and would act like it was flooding or not getting spark when trying to restart it after stopping. I looked at the spark plugs and they seemed bad so I replaced them.

    2nd time out it started fine and then about 1 minute into the run it just died. It started back up and ran for a bit again and stopped. I was at full throttle both times.

    I started running it but not at full throttle and it seemed to be going ok but then it stopped again.

    I noticed on restarting that the volts read about 8 or so on restarting. I thought maybe it was just an old battery. I went to the store and got a new battery and charged it but only for a little bit so I could get the ski back to the loading ramp. I got it back but it only went a little bit. Starting was harder.

    It feels like a fuel issue so I was going to change out lines and broke the selector switch nipple so I have that on order.

    Upon further looking while I wait I noticed a lot of oil in the hull. I found that the line from the oil tank to the crank case (I believe) was fine. Then a second line from the crank case to wherever was off. It had enough line to get to the carb area and I found a nipple there that had nothing attached.

    I have no experience with these engines but I believ oil first goes to the case and a second line then feeds the carb to mix with the gase correct? Would this have caused the stopping of the engine or do I need to keep looking?

    I also have since fully charged the battery but don't think that would have caused the sudden stopping. Help. any suggestions why the sudden stopping.

    I also before breaking the stop switch had trouble just starting the engine and with a little gas to the carb it was just fine.
    Last edited by K447; 09-11-2012 at 10:45 PM.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    You were running the engine without oil feeding into the engine, correct? if so then the engine was probably seizing from lack of lubrication.

    Check cylinder compression. You may have badly damaged or scored the cylinder walls or worn the piston rings.

    Fuel issues do not cause low voltage readings while cranking. A seized engine can create a heavy load for the starter motor which can cause slow cranking and low voltage readings, especially if the battery is not 100% strong.

    After you have checked the cylinders (and you may need to remove the cylinder heads to visually inspect the cylinders and pistons) you should confirm that the electrical box has the CDI connected to the Orange wires. There is a service bulletin (PWC-00-05) that corrects a no restart of warm engine problem.

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  4. #3
    K447,
    Am I correct on the hose and where it goes? I see that it goes from the oil tank to a spot at the bottom of the motor. Then it comes out of there with a second line to I believe the carb area. That is where I found it disconnected. Would the engine be getting any oil or not? I am not sure if where it goes feeds into the motor or not. It does start right now if I didn't break the on off switch.

  5. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    On the red domestic engines the oil pump is on the front of the engine, mounted on the front cover of the flywheel housing.

    The oil goes from the oil tank down to the pump, then from the pump goes to the carburetor or intake manifold. The oil pump is the only source of lubrication for the engine, and all the oil goes through those small hoses.

    There is no other oil resevoir inside the engine, it all comes from the oil pump. Since these are 2-stroke engines all the oil that is 'pumped' into the engine eventually gets consumed by the engine as it burns fuel. That is why the oil pump needs to continuously feed oil into the engine, the old oil gets consumed and goes out the exhaust pipe.

    I do not recall whether your 700 twin engine only has a single oil line or one oil hose for each cylinder. In either case, an oil line laying in the hull means no oil for at least one cylinder, if not both.

  6. #5
    K447,
    I was told when I purchased the machine that you should put a little oil directly into the gas everytime you fill up. I did do this but it is only about 6 ounces I added. Do you think that helped at all. The engine still does start but I am no expert at listening to them. If that was the problem and is now getting oil would you suggest taking it out to test or not?

  7. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Well, a little oil Pre-mixed into the fuel means that there was at least some oil going into the engine.

    The fact that the engine stopped running several times and was hard to restart each time suggests that there was not enough lubrication, or some other cause.

    I would be checking the cylinder compression as a next step. Even if the compression numbers were OK I would probably want to take the cylinder heads off to visually confirm the cylinder condition.

    What you do not want to do with these engines is run them hard to 'test' them. If they fail the test you run the risk of greater engine damage.

  8. #7
    Is taking the cylinder heads off difficult or could I do it if I pay attention while removing it?

  9. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad D View Post
    Is taking the cylinder heads off difficult or could I do it if I pay attention while removing it?
    Review the procedure before diving in.

    There is a specific sequence for retorquing the cylinder heads. I would be cleaning out the bolt hole threads and use Loctite when re-assembling. Technically we are supposed to use new o-rings every time the heads come off but lots of guys reuse them.

    The water manifold bar comes off first, then the red head covers, then the actual cylinder heads.

    If the water manifold gaskets tear or look like they may not seal properly then I suggest using new gaskets when it goes back together.

    While the water bar is off remove and inspect the thermostat housing innards.

  10. #9
    Thank you, I will look for the torque sequence. I have the cylinder head cover off. I will dive into the heads tomorrow. If they don't look bad what is your opinion on "testing" that the problem was fixed with the oil line being re-attached?

  11. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Check compression first, before you pull the engine apart.

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