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  1. #1

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    2000 GTX ME 951 Breathing new life

    Last year about this time I made an effort to convert a blown to hell RXDI over to carb'ed. It was somewhat documented and posted on another site covering about one months worth of work it took to complete the task. Most responses was it being a waste of time and too much money for what needed to be changed out and addressed. The only money out of pocket was for a new top end kit to freshen the donor motor. Since the build was finished ski has not experienced one hick up or setback. Everything works correctly and ski runs great. After a lot of elbow grease and polishing, it looks really nice and my back up ski for when others go riding.

    This year one of my projects is going to go thru a 2000 GTX ME. My plans are to keep it with mostly stock parts. I dont plan to waste a bunch of money for aftermarket add-ons that take away from my intent of this project.

    Now with that said this is what I want from anyone interested in this thread becoming a reality. I want your input. Your ideas on how and what direction to go as this ski comes back to life. I will make some mistakes along the way, and correcting them is just one part of the project to get this ski back on the water and more reliable than when new. But with outside input from everyone that cares to participate, some of you will get a good idea of what gains to expect on your ski if doing the same type of work.

    What I plan to accomplish is not only going completely thru the motor, electrical, fuel and propulsion, but also addressing cosmetic issues, Also including repitching the prop, and so on. More details on this later.

    I hope there is some interest here. I will proceed as time will allow to do so. Many of the tasks to be done are mostly things already proven and etched in stone. But covering many of the aspects in more detail and what benefits that can be achieved.

    When the ski is finished I will be making repeated trips to the lake to find out how well any of the repairs or modifications panned out. This way any of you that choose to try some of the same things here will know what to expect when done correctly.

    Please let me know what you are interested in planning with your own ski, so if similar to what I am doing can cover in more detail. Sharing any information will be very be beneficial to anyone following this thread.


  2. #2

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    A quick bit of history before diving in head first. The skis is a Viper red 2000 ME GTX with 951. Common ski and a lot of these were sold. Would still be a great looking ski if original owners would just take care of it. I stumbled on this package deal from Craigslist. This GTX had a blown SBT motor. The reason it took a dump had nothing to do from where it came from. The guy I had purchased from bought it already as a basket case. He removed the motor and pulled cylinders off. Dumped oil in hoping to salvage the rest. Rear piston was toast. Thats where I come in to the picture. He was selling this ski along with a really nice looking 1999 Yamaha GP800. It is also in need of major motor repairs, but that for another section on this forum. The price was right and came with a good trailer, so I dragged it all home. It took two truck loads since only one trailer and two skis, plus all of the parts. He had stripped the ski down a lot already. Rub rails and other small parts also removed so he could sand and buff the hull back to its original shine. This is like most projects that get started and never finished. Its always easier to get something torn apart, but getting everything fixed and put back together seems to take for ever. Or in most cases, never.

  3. #3

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    This is how it started. I see an ad on Craigslist. Spare the details, and the ski comes back with me. It is completely disassembled and about two hours of listening to everything the guy had done and plans had his job not taken him out of the loop for a while. I bring it home inventory everything, and to my surprise appears to have all the parts here. He purchased the ski with motor blown up. He wasnt the idiot that did not go thru fuel system and freshen up carbs when motor was changed out with a new SBT. Enough of the boring history lesson. Class over. Lets fast forward to now.

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    This ski is a salt water reject. Surprisingly tho, the only salt issues on hull all unbolted with ease. This pump, and nozzles with reverse gate are nasty with salt burns and corrosion. The SS bolts had no issues and everything came right off. Even the ride plate that looks like hammered dog poop sitting in an acid vat too long unbolted without any problems. Thats a good thing, right?

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    The tunnel has large salt deposits all over like some plague, but dusted right off, with no visible pitting or signs of damage underneath.

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    Here are pics of hull with a walk around. Despite its appearance in pics its is in very good shape with minor fading that will be easily cleaned up. Sun damage, tho obviously present, is not severe and should shine back up nicely.

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    More to come on next post.
    Last edited by Seadoo timebomb; 09-24-2012 at 11:35 AM.

  4. #4

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    The clearcoat is loosing its ability to stay clear and lifting in some places. Its a pita to sand thru the clearcoat and reapply, but if rest of ski turns out very nice, will be on the to do list.


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    It may not show well in pic, but the registration numbers were the plain very thin black pvc type, once removed. Not the white background that is printed over. This caused bad heat damage in shape of each number/letter. The black color had burned into gelcoat surface.
    Last edited by Seadoo timebomb; 09-24-2012 at 09:14 PM.

  5. #5

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    I really liked the carbon fiber paint scheme on these parts, but direct sunlight kills it fast. Its baked right off here to just bare plastic. Everything I have seen with carbon fiber paint scheme is just destroyed after sitting out in the sun too much. I guess the dark really holds in heat. If someone has a sure fire way to repaint the pattern, well that might be on the short list also.
    Last edited by Seadoo timebomb; 09-24-2012 at 09:15 PM.

  6. #6
    AndinoWatercraft's Avatar
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    Subscribed. Keep us posted.

    I personally have an 00 RX ME sitting on the garage. I got It cheap with a blown motor also. Plans are to rebuild ,fresh crankshaft , got a set ProX 89mm pistons and a 91mm Wiseco? both sets are less than 10 hours . All they need are new rings. Over the years I've manage to get a hand on some other goodies. MicroTouch rev limiter, M16 reeds and intake, Skat pump , even a set of 50mm buckshots (wich I will Not use..) and recently I'm on the hunt for a white pipe. Got a DI waterbox also but been reading it doesn't works as a performance upgrade.

    On the cosmetic side the dream is to install a PX steering system or an aftermarket bar with finger throtlle.Since it's gray and black like his younger grandson installing orange and black custom X decalls may got the looks as the same for the seat.

    That's about for me rigth now so back on topic.

    Enjoy the build , Have fun don't give up and post many pics off progres.

    Cheers.

  7. #7

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    Here is the ride plate. As I stated it came off with ease. Bolts gave no resistance to being removed. This will get sand blasted, hopefully removing all signs of corrosion permanently. Then several coats of POR-15 will be applied over the bare aluminum. The same will be done with thrust and steering nozzle too. I have some extras that will get substituted instead of unnecessary work, but anything I cant swap will get the treatment.
    Last edited by Seadoo timebomb; 09-24-2012 at 09:48 PM.

  8. #8

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    Time to more forward on this. Enough talking, lets make something happen here.

    OK for starters, I dont know about any of you, but the trailer had to go. So I needed some roll around stands to make life a little easier, not to mention more room to work in and around ski. So this is a must have.

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    No sooner had I made a bunch of these stands, someone dropped by and bought all of them! Yikes! So back to the steel yard and grab some more material.

    On this batch I went with 1 1/2" X 3" rectangular in 14 gauge thickness. Very close by and reasonably cheap at $1.55 a foot or $37.20 per 24 ft stick. Doing some quick math in my head, while waiting for material to get pulled, it worked out that about 11 1/2' of stock was needed per stand. The guy at steel yard was nice enough to cut the 24' lengths in half, so I could carry them on my ladder rack atop of said truck. Time to cut up in smaller pieces.

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    Here is a stack of enough material to make three stands so far. Will get the rest of it cut then off to the welding table. The center support is 36", each axle is 30" and 4 uprights are 11". Lets see already up to 140 inches. Thats close enough to 11 1/2 ft isnt it? There was roughly a 3"piece with one torched end left over.

    First I did a quick go around with 4 1/2" angle grinder to knock all sharp edges and flash left from chop saw.

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    With axle butted against one end of main support, center was located and then checked with carpenters square. Pieces are clamped down to work table, ready to weld. Most welding methods can be used on this thinner material. If good at stick welding, a cheap cracker box will do using the basic 6013 rod. If using a DC welder, I can recommend 7014, also referred to as a "kid rod". Penetration is not an issue here and will yield a very nice looking bead. I went the easy route and used a MIG welder. It was setup with 0.030" wire and 75/25 argon. Normally I use straight CO2 since a little on the cheap side. But decided to splurge on this. You could also go with fluxcore, but may not lay down the best looking weld, and easy to burn thu if not careful. Normally I would use 0.023" wire, but the lazy took over. I had another job to finish and didnt want to change it back.
    Last edited by Seadoo timebomb; 10-11-2012 at 02:57 PM.

  9. #9

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    Nice thing about a MIG welder is just about any idiot can weld if wire speed and temp are set close. The best looking welds can be achieved by dragging the puddle. Not so much on penetration, but smooth and clean. Being "the hard head", most of the time I push the weld with a stitch pattern. It keeps me tuned up for doing vertical and over head when the rare occasion arises.

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    After welding both axles together, next the wheels are set in place. There is no reason to drill and bolt on. At least not for me. These will be used inside on concrete floor and not likely going bad anytime in the next hundred years. They are set out to each end of axle and centered. Four little tacks and become permanent.
    Last edited by Seadoo timebomb; 10-11-2012 at 03:08 PM.

  10. #10

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    Doesnt look like much here, but is a start. They sit flat and all casters swivel, so will make easy to navigate ski around shop.

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    Here is a close shot of the upright. It is centered and setback just about 3/4". No particular reason except where i chose to put it. But basically right over the castor for best support. Its already painted and lookin good, imho.

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    Here are the first few done. I grabbed a quart of Rustoleum Black Hammerite paint from Home Depot and sprayed it using an HVLP gun, to protect metal from elements and a nice finish. The wood is 2X3 cedar for fences. I like the smell and holds up better than yellow pine, tho twice the price. And to mention its not mosquito friendly. Since the DFW area has highest number cases of West Nile virus in the country, no reason not to take safety precautions. Again thats a good thing, right? The tops of uprights were notched down 2" and back 1 1/2". Wood has a place to sit and lay against. Drill hole and secure with one 1/4" carriage bolt at each upright. So for about $40 in materials, each stand is finished and ready for work. I looked at all of the commercially available stands and not impressed, especially for the price. These are very simple, rock solid, will fit and can hold up the heaviest ski currently manufactured. I do plan to modify one or make an optional add-on to hold ski upside down for repairs on bottom of hull. When the time presents itself, then will be covered.
    Last edited by Seadoo timebomb; 10-11-2012 at 03:14 PM.

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