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  1. #1

    Wave Venure 760 won't idle and shuts off randomly

    I am new to the PWC scene. I purchased 2 1997 Wave Venture 760s from a friend. They had been sitting for a few months, so I drained the tanks and added fresh fuel. One of them started right up and the other needed a new primer. I took them out and they were running great, but the one that started right up shut off on the way back in. I hit the start button and it cranked right up. Picked up speed and a few minutes later shut off again. Once again it cranked right back up. This happened a few more times till I got to the dock. When I got the skies out of the water I took the seats off and noticed a lot of dirt in the filter of the one that had been shutting off. I replaced the filters and took the carbs off cleaned and rebuilt them. Now I can't get it to idle. If I pump the primer it will start, but shut back off. I ordered the rebuild kits and once again cleaned out the carbs and installed the kits. I have done everything by the book, including the pop off test. The only thing I have not replaced is the needle and seat. I hooked the ski up to the flush hose, pumped the primer and started it. I kept it running by pumping the primer. Turned on the water and reved the engine to about 1/3 throttle. Let it warm up and I was able to get it to idle rough, but idle non the less. I put the ski in the water and once again it would only start by pumping the primer, but would shut right back off. Once I got away from the dock I pumped the primer and started the ski. Pulled back on the throttle and off I went, but if I let it get back to idle it would shut off and I would have to pump the primer at least once for it to start. I went for a ride full throttle and it ran great, but would shut off each time I tried to get it to idle. The while at full throttle it once again shut off. I pumped the primer and it cranked right back up, but shut off again a little later while at full throttle. This time though when I hit the start button it acted like I had a dead battery. It hesitated to turn over and all the instruments turned off. I release the start button and hit it again and it cranked back up. It shut off several times that afternoon while at full throttle, but only acted like it had a dead battery twice. The rest of the time I would give the primer a single pump it would start right up and off I went. As long as I didn't try to idle I was fine. When I got back home I took everything I could think of apart. I pulled the fuel pickup out of the tank. It was clear. I pulled the ON/OFF/RES valve, clear. I tested the hoses individually, clear. The fuel filter is full of fuel, so I don't understand why it seems to be starving for fuel at idle. I also took all the electrical apart. I inspected each and every connection. I spayed contact cleaner on all terminals and coated them with dielectric grease. I only found 2 things that I am not sure if they could be causing the ski to shut off randomly at high speed. One was the the brown of the red and brown cables coming from the engine stop switch had a little bit of green blue color to it, so I cleaned it really well and put dielectric grease on it. The second item I found was the kill switch where the key goes had a some black on the contacts like you get from when you short contacts together. I cleaned the four contacts on the kill switch really well and coated them with grease. I checked both ends of the positive and negative battery cables they weren't bad, but I cleaned and greased then anyway. The battery is new, so I know it isn't that plus it only did it twice and started right up every other time, so it seems like a bad contact. I have not had a chance to put the ski back in the water since doing all of this, but I have tried to start it and it still won't idle. Does any one have any ideas as to what else I can try / look at?


  2. #2
    Myself's Avatar
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    Have you done a compression check? Sounds like you could have a lower rod bearing locking up or coming apart. Do a compression check first before even trying to start it up again.

  3. #3
    Front cylinder has 45 psi and the rear cylinder has 105 psi. Any ideas?

  4. #4
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    Yes, as I stated, possibly a bearing has come apart and scarred up the cylinder. You need to pull the head and take pics of the damage for us.

  5. #5
    Here are the pictures. Funny part (if there can actually be any) is that the cylinder with the 105 compression is actually the one with the most damage. The cleaner one (cause I spayed WD40 and cranked it) is the one with only 45 psi. Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6
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    That is damage from metal debris. Also it looks like older damage. I'd say the crank is bad and has puked out some bits of bearing. Most likely before your friend ever parked them. Finish tearing it down to see what's still good then post a WTB in the classifieds. Just put it back together with good used parts, it's really not worth spending a fortune on.

  7. #7
    Here is a picture of the piston with the most damage. I took a picture of both, but now my phone is giving me issues also. Anyway, both pistons are missing the upper ring. Any idea what would cause the rings to disintegrate? The bottom end seems to be in good condition. Any idea on where to get a good price on an upper rebuild kit and\or machine shop I can send the head to have the sleeve resurfaced?Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
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    Could be a couple things going on there. First of all to do this correctly you should go ahead and open the whole thing, flush it all out, then reseal the case with fresh crank seals. Looks like besides the ring damage there is some detonation going on. Possibly also worn bores that had sharp port edges that grabbed the ring. If the cylinders don't look any worse than that piston you can probably get away with a .50mm over top end kit. Any local cycle or automotive shop should be able to do the cylinders for $35-45 each. But they probably won't chamfer the port edges, make sure you ask about that cause it needs done . You should be able to pick up a good used head for $40 or less. I would go through the carbs with a good cleaning at the least, you may have some blockage and lean running issues in them.

  9. #9
    Thanks for all your help and advice. I really appreciate it. I found a local ski shop that has it's own machine shop. the guy seems to know his stuff. He is going .50 over on the cylinders. I will ask him about chamfering the port edges. I was going over the bottom half yesterday and I saw that there is some oil inside the case. Almost looks like 2 cycle oil. Is the case suppose to have oil in it? If so how much? What kind? I had pulled the carbs twice before this and cleaned then. The first time I only used carb cleaner and built them back with all original parts, but when I could not get it to idle I order rebuild kits, tore them down and cleaned them with carb cleaner and blew them out with the compressor to make sure everything was clean and clear. That is why before this I could not understand why it would not idle, but after knowing one cylinder only had 45 psi I can understand that cylinder was not working enough to keep it running at idle, but would at higher RPMs.

  10. #10
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    Residual 2 stroke oil settles in the crankcase, no big deal. That's how the lower end gets lube. Now would be a good time to test the operation of the oil pump and replace the oil lines, or delete it all and go pre-mix. Also check for bearing slop in the midshaft housing inside the hull, and maybe even tear down, clean, regrease the jet pump as preventative maintenance before next season.

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