10-04-2012, 07:37 PM #1
How to Replace Head Gasket and Head w/engine in hull
I don't know exactly when the head gasket blew, but performance (top speed) was down some, and the engine was losing coolant from the overflow bottle. I kept having to refill it. Even when the ski sat for a few weeks coolant was draining out of the overflow bottle! So, it was time to make some changes. I removed the head, and delivered to WFO for some minor head work: decked the head, pocket porting (blending the bowls), seating the valves. Nothing fancy or exotic porting, just the basic stuff.
see post 305-306
Last edited by 1tommygunner1927; 10-05-2012 at 07:50 AM.
10-04-2012, 07:41 PM #2
I ordered a new stock head gasket and head bolts. Once everything arrived I went about installing the head gasket/bolts, and going by the manual. This is what happened........
10-04-2012, 07:44 PM #3
10-04-2012, 07:52 PM #4
10-04-2012, 07:59 PM #5
That's scarey! I thought this was going to be a how to thread lol
10-04-2012, 08:13 PM #6
Changing head gasket in ski is actually easier in ski then on the bench IMO.
Have had the OEM bolts fail more then once and since then have always used ARP studs.
10-04-2012, 08:17 PM #7
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Aussie Land
Wow! How did you get it out?
10-04-2012, 08:48 PM #8
Did I mention cleaniness and lube?
The #5 bolt broke at about 65# on the torque wrench......I had to walk away for awhile, otherwise I was gonna kill somethin'.
After removing the head, the broken off piece of the head bolt was sticking out of the block about an inch. Used visegrips to remove it. Chucked the head gasket too.
Ordered another stock head gasket and Riva/ARP head studs from the store (b/c it was in stock). For those who want to order the ARP head studs from another source, the ARP part number is 168-4201......but it takes about 3 weeks for delivery.
10-04-2012, 08:49 PM #9
Sorry for the delay.....had to pick up the wife from work.....
10-04-2012, 08:55 PM #10
make sure to torque the studs to 95ftlbs
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