Thread: "Splash" Tested Today
10-10-2012, 03:43 PM #1
"Splash" Tested Today
Played "hookie" from work for 1/2 a day today to "splash" test my ski since conducting the following:
Trimmed Rear Air Tubes
Installed 1 Additional Air Vent + Tube
Removed Recall Plate
Installed R&D SCOM
Installed R&D 1* Wedge
Cleaned-up OEM Intake Grate and Rideplate
I really wanted to ensure no codes were being generated after installing the R&D Module - and there were none, so I must have installed it correctly
Went to the local Fresh-Water "Watering Hole" by myself. It was nice to give my new ski a "fresh water" bath for a change.
Fuel was entirely FULL.
I did a part to full throttle pass to chase off any Gators if there were any - yet none were to be seen...
My VERY 1st full-pass with the trim set on "Neutral" netted me the following:
I only rode for ~ 30 minutes getting the feel for the trim with the new 1* Wedge installed - then I had to come back in.
I am VERY impressed with this thing - 71.2 MPH @ 7960 RPM.
The above items added an EASY 4 MPH from 100% bone stock (was 67.5 MPH) all for a measley $350-
There's a lot more to be extracted from this thing - with low fuel, getting a better feel for the trim positions with the 1* Wedge I just installed, Body Position during speed passes, and making speed passes on salt water - instead of fresh water, possibly even removing the front bucket for more air and maybe the ECM Plastic Cover as well - you guys think it's possible to get to near 75 MPH?
I guess Mal was correct when he told me that the Kawasaki Ultra-300x is a "Machine" !!!
You guys ROCK!!! Good Day Mate
10-10-2012, 04:30 PM #2
well done ed yes you will pick up more speed by removing the bucket the rubber lid seal and the ecu plate great cheap trick for a dead flat water race also with the flat filter installed. 2 questions, have you tightened your BOV spring and did you adjust the trim rod to compensate the wedge?
btw my ski was running 75.8 before it sunk lol
10-10-2012, 06:32 PM #3
I re-adjusted the steering, and it is PERFECT. I re-adjusted and extended the reverse bucket cable about 5 rotations CCW, then I re-adjusted it again after I had it all together (shortened cable) to ensure the reverse bucket was "up" all the way - cause I hardly ever use that thing anyways, I just didn't want it creating any drag or resistance in the "forward" direction.
Concerning the Trim adjustment, it states to "Extend the cable end ~ 5mm" - so in a non-scientific manner, I rotated the adjustment rod ~ 4 to 5 rotations CCW (out) - to lengthen the cable.
Is there a more "precise" procedure to set your trim adjustment, or is it trial and error?
Once again - thanks for sharing your knowlege, and experiences - and especially the humor that goes along with all of you guys. It's really fun entertainment for us all
Oh yea, I almost forgot the most important thing:
Good Day Mate
10-10-2012, 06:47 PM #4
Make sure your handlbars and steering nozzle are perfectly straight so the bolts for both drop right below into the cable joints....
Last edited by jetdave56; 10-10-2012 at 07:03 PM.
10-11-2012, 03:45 AM #5
owl-ya-gowing mate! haaa
71'ish in fresh water is pretty good I think (with basically a full tank).
Once you pull the BOV off you'll figure it out pretty quickly. Corey told me: "You just hold the shaft and adjust the nut". He swears he was ONLY talking about the BOV with that statement too. I'm not so sure though, I worry what he gets up to when the sun goes down.
But on a serious note, when you adjust it you'll feel it's harder to push down (and open)
10-11-2012, 04:21 AM #6
Yet, I a not certain how to make that adjustment on the trim - beyond what was recommended in the R&D Literature.
I mean, you state to get everything lined-up and adjusted so teh bolt just "falls" in place, yet where is the "starting point" for the trim setting - maybe all the way up, maybe on neutral?
I would like to hear the consensus on this from you guys - please.
Many thanks !!!
10-11-2012, 04:26 AM #7
Mal, does the Intercooler need to be out to make this adjustment?
Also does the BOV needs to be removed to enable adjusting, or is it possible to do such with it still installed?
Lastly, is there a gasket that I should buy and have handy JIC?
owl-ya-gowing to you too mate
Thanks Always !!!!
10-11-2012, 04:34 AM #8
It's held on by two 8mm bolts from memory. You can reach it behind the intercooler and remove it without removing anything else.
Once you remove it you'll immediately see the shaft and nut that you can adjust.
EDIT: I didn't replace the gasket and it's fine.
10-11-2012, 05:02 AM #9
correct mal, i actually done mine last night its an odd one to adjust first you hold the shaft internal of the bov then loosen the lock nut then you have to turn the shaft so as less thread is showing then hold the shaft and lock the nut up.
10-11-2012, 07:48 AM #10
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
"Splash" Tested Today
The nozzle only articulates so far and you don't want to go to much or u can lock the motor up.
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