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  1. #1
    Spooling's Avatar
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    "Splash" Tested Today

    Played "hookie" from work for 1/2 a day today to "splash" test my ski since conducting the following:
    ------------------
    Flushed Intercooler
    Trimmed Rear Air Tubes
    Installed 1 Additional Air Vent + Tube
    Removed Recall Plate
    Installed R&D SCOM
    Installed R&D 1* Wedge
    Cleaned-up OEM Intake Grate and Rideplate
    --------------------

    I really wanted to ensure no codes were being generated after installing the R&D Module - and there were none, so I must have installed it correctly

    Went to the local Fresh-Water "Watering Hole" by myself. It was nice to give my new ski a "fresh water" bath for a change.

    Fuel was entirely FULL.

    I did a part to full throttle pass to chase off any Gators if there were any - yet none were to be seen...

    My VERY 1st full-pass with the trim set on "Neutral" netted me the following:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I only rode for ~ 30 minutes getting the feel for the trim with the new 1* Wedge installed - then I had to come back in.

    I am VERY impressed with this thing - 71.2 MPH @ 7960 RPM.

    The above items added an EASY 4 MPH from 100% bone stock (was 67.5 MPH) all for a measley $350-

    There's a lot more to be extracted from this thing - with low fuel, getting a better feel for the trim positions with the 1* Wedge I just installed, Body Position during speed passes, and making speed passes on salt water - instead of fresh water, possibly even removing the front bucket for more air and maybe the ECM Plastic Cover as well - you guys think it's possible to get to near 75 MPH?

    I guess Mal was correct when he told me that the Kawasaki Ultra-300x is a "Machine" !!!

    You guys ROCK!!! Good Day Mate


  2. #2
    nicjak's Avatar
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    well done ed yes you will pick up more speed by removing the bucket the rubber lid seal and the ecu plate great cheap trick for a dead flat water race also with the flat filter installed. 2 questions, have you tightened your BOV spring and did you adjust the trim rod to compensate the wedge?
    btw my ski was running 75.8 before it sunk lol

  3. #3
    Spooling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicjak View Post
    have you tightened your BOV spring
    I don't know how, so I left it as is. I searched for a thread on it with instructions, yet came up empty...

    Quote Originally Posted by nicjak View Post
    did you adjust the trim rod to compensate the wedge?
    R&D Instructions are as follows:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I re-adjusted the steering, and it is PERFECT. I re-adjusted and extended the reverse bucket cable about 5 rotations CCW, then I re-adjusted it again after I had it all together (shortened cable) to ensure the reverse bucket was "up" all the way - cause I hardly ever use that thing anyways, I just didn't want it creating any drag or resistance in the "forward" direction.

    Concerning the Trim adjustment, it states to "Extend the cable end ~ 5mm" - so in a non-scientific manner, I rotated the adjustment rod ~ 4 to 5 rotations CCW (out) - to lengthen the cable.

    Is there a more "precise" procedure to set your trim adjustment, or is it trial and error?

    Quote Originally Posted by nicjak View Post
    my ski was running 75.8 before it sunk lol
    Your stuff ROCKS Corey. I am certain you are "Jonesin" to get back there with your new 300x.

    Once again - thanks for sharing your knowlege, and experiences - and especially the humor that goes along with all of you guys. It's really fun entertainment for us all

    Oh yea, I almost forgot the most important thing:

    Good Day Mate

  4. #4
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Make sure your handlbars and steering nozzle are perfectly straight so the bolts for both drop right below into the cable joints....
    Last edited by jetdave56; 10-10-2012 at 07:03 PM.

  5. #5
    Self Confessed Day Dreamer toomanytoys's Avatar
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    owl-ya-gowing mate! haaa

    71'ish in fresh water is pretty good I think (with basically a full tank).

    Once you pull the BOV off you'll figure it out pretty quickly. Corey told me: "You just hold the shaft and adjust the nut". He swears he was ONLY talking about the BOV with that statement too. I'm not so sure though, I worry what he gets up to when the sun goes down.

    But on a serious note, when you adjust it you'll feel it's harder to push down (and open)

    Cheers, Mal

  6. #6
    Spooling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetdave56 View Post
    Make sure your handlbars and steering nozzle are perfectly straight so the bolts for both drop right below into the cable joints....
    Dave, I used a tape measure to ensure the handlebars were perfectly straight - by measuring and equaling distances between 2 points on each side of the ski, and the same for the pump nozzle. This technique proved to work perfectly - as the ski goes straight and the bars are straight.

    Yet, I a not certain how to make that adjustment on the trim - beyond what was recommended in the R&D Literature.

    I mean, you state to get everything lined-up and adjusted so teh bolt just "falls" in place, yet where is the "starting point" for the trim setting - maybe all the way up, maybe on neutral?

    I would like to hear the consensus on this from you guys - please.

    Many thanks !!!

  7. #7
    Spooling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toomanytoys View Post
    Once you pull the BOV off you'll figure it out pretty quickly - when you adjust it you'll feel it's harder to push down
    ----------

    Mal, does the Intercooler need to be out to make this adjustment?

    Also does the BOV needs to be removed to enable adjusting, or is it possible to do such with it still installed?

    Lastly, is there a gasket that I should buy and have handy JIC?

    owl-ya-gowing to you too mate

    Thanks Always !!!!

    Good Day

  8. #8
    Self Confessed Day Dreamer toomanytoys's Avatar
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    It's held on by two 8mm bolts from memory. You can reach it behind the intercooler and remove it without removing anything else.

    Once you remove it you'll immediately see the shaft and nut that you can adjust.

    Cheers.

    EDIT: I didn't replace the gasket and it's fine.

  9. #9
    nicjak's Avatar
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    correct mal, i actually done mine last night its an odd one to adjust first you hold the shaft internal of the bov then loosen the lock nut then you have to turn the shaft so as less thread is showing then hold the shaft and lock the nut up.

  10. #10
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    "Splash" Tested Today

    The nozzle only articulates so far and you don't want to go to much or u can lock the motor up.

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