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  1. #1

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    Adding antifreeze for winter

    1996 SL900

    After i clear out all the water from the exhaust by running it, can I simply pour antifreeze into my flush adapter into the water bar and wait for it to come out the exhaust? Will this be sufficient?

    Thanks!


  2. #2
    Banned User
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    No need to use antifreeze. Polaris cooling systems are self draining.

  3. #3

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    seriously? I live in Michigan it gets into the "teens" during the winter... There is not going to be any access water in the system to worry about?

  4. #4
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    I am in Wisconsin....plenty cold here too. The cooling systems are designed to self drain when the ski is out of the water. The water inlet is the lowest point in the system. All that will be left after blowing out the exhaust is a little in the waterbox, which is nothing to worry about.

  5. #5

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    ok. thanks for your help. guess i wasted my $4.00 on some antifreeze! lol No big deal.

    Anyways, I poured some into the water bar untill it came out the exhaust. Then also poured some into the water box since i saw some water standing in it.

  6. #6

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    Adding antifreeze for winter

    Quote Originally Posted by Caseville View Post
    ok. thanks for your help. guess i wasted my $4.00 on some antifreeze! lol No big deal.

    Anyways, I poured some into the water bar untill it came out the exhaust. Then also poured some into the water box since i saw some water standing in it.
    I just did the same thing you did and from everything I've read that's all you really can do. Since where the water sits is such a large volume it won't damage anything anyway.
    Sucks having to put them away!

  7. #7
    GGG's Avatar
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    Unless the block drain is clogged and you don't know about it......

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caseville View Post
    seriously? I live in Michigan it gets into the "teens" during the winter... There is not going to be any excess water in the system to worry about?
    Tip the nose of the ski up high on the trailer to encourage the dregs of cooling water to drain out the rear. This is only 'required' with the Ficht fuel injected engines, but it does not hurt to tip the carburetor engines up.

    I drain the hull at the same time with the nose up, then vacuum or mop up any remaining water inside the hull. Not for freeze damage, but to reduce mold and mildew during storage. The drier you can get it and keep it during storage, the better. If stored indoors leave the seat cracked open to allow air to circulate.

    If you must use antifreeze for some reason, use the pink RV propylene glycol, not the automotive antifreeze coolant stuff. I would also avoid the cheap alcohol based antifreeze products.

    When I used to store my watercraft outside I would tilt the trailer up as high as I could get it and put a solid support underneath the tougue to keep it there. That reduced the amount of water that would sit in the footwells and potentially degrade the foam mats.

    A snug fitting watercraft cover does help reduce the weathering damage to colors, plastics and rubber.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Caseville View Post
    ok. thanks for your help. guess i wasted my $4.00 on some antifreeze! lol No big deal.

    Anyways, I poured some into the water bar untill it came out the exhaust. Then also poured some into the water box since i saw some water standing in it.
    the antifreeze you seen run out came frome the self drain hose the others were speaking of! what you did was buy antifreeze and pour it on the ground via through the engine!

    I've only seen one ski freeze, it was the cooling pan on the bottom of the engine on a 2000 SeaDoo rfi that was pluged! i winterized it for a customer so i was responsible and i repaired it free! so i now run antifreeze through the stator cooling line on all efi seadoos!

  10. #10
    one other thing! i do a complete service on all my costomers skis for no additional charge so that they get there moneys worth! because when the want a basic winterizing for freezing reasons I feal im cheating them! some shops are charging upwards of 400,00 bucks for a winterize and oil/filter change a 30 min job. I drain mop all water from hull flush engine with fresh water grease drive lines if avalible clean fuel filters if carbed fuel tratment fog engine flush with rv antifreeze check pump oil on older seadoos and spray engine with mercury corosion guard. all for 149.95 additional 50 labor for oil/filtr change. a easy way if you have several skis to do is get a garden sprayer cut the wand off fill with rv antifreeze pump it up and sray it in. i have about a 100 or so costomers that just add fuel staiblizer rev up and put up and they have no problems with freezing.

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