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  1. #1

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    650 SL motor won't shut off

    So I bought a 650 SL knowing it had issues. The biggest issue now is that I can't get the motor to stop. I killed it by choking and covering the intake. I've cleaned the contacts on the kill switch and checked the wiring under the hood. My guess is that it is in the CDI box. Any ideas of what the wiring should look like? I'm guessing the CDI because the previous owner changed out the coils. Any help is much appreciated.


  2. #2
    burtonrider10022's Avatar
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    In or out of the water? I know I read something here about running out of the water can cause the motor to "run away". Not sure if that's true or not, though. Is it increasing in RPM or just refusing to stop?

  3. #3
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    The circuitry of the kill switch is actually a normally open circuit. This means that if the kill switch is bad, or there is a break in the wire, or the wires are disconnected in the ebox, the kill switch will not function and the motor will not stop. The kill switch functions by grounding the CDI to the engine ground, thus stopping the motor. You will need to check all of your connections and test the functionality of the kill switch with a multi meter. Lanyard in = open circuit. Lanyard out = closed circuit. Lanyard in, Kill switch stop button pushed = closed circuit.

  4. #4
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burtonrider10022 View Post
    In or out of the water? I know I read something here about running out of the water can cause the motor to "run away". Not sure if that's true or not, though. Is it increasing in RPM or just refusing to stop?
    A sealed and tuned motor will idle higher out of the water than in, by about 2x. It should not, however, run away...... There are other issues if it does....

  5. #5
    burtonrider10022's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by burtonrider10022 View Post
    In or out of the water? I know I read something here about running out of the water can cause the motor to "run away". Not sure if that's true or not, though. Is it increasing in RPM or just refusing to stop?
    A sealed and tuned motor will idle higher out of the water than in, by about 2x. It should not, however, run away...... There are other issues if it does....
    Good to know, thanks for the clarification!

  6. #6

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    Appreciate the help. Not much of a wiring guy, so this should be interesting.

  7. #7
    casey67's Avatar
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    It's actually really simple. The black with yellow stripe wire is the "kill" or "stop" wire. Check that wire going into the CDI for a ground signal (continuity to ground) By grounding that blk/yel wire it should shut off.

  8. #8
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    It's actually really simple. The black with yellow stripe wire is the "kill" or "stop" wire. Check that wire going into the CDI for a ground signal (continuity to ground) By grounding that blk/yel wire it should shut off.
    Right - The b/y may also attached at the circuit board, in which case the b/y from the CDI would be as well. The connections at the terminal board can rust and break, the spade connectors at the ends of the wires can corrode and break free, and the kill switch can go bad. The kill switch b/y should come into the ebox bundled with a black ground wire from the switch. Make sure that this wire is connected to the terminal board at the black (ground) location as well, and that all the connections are good. If you are unsure, take a good close up of the ebox and post on here......

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