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  1. #1
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    P/N 420641171 (Plug Screw M30 X 1.5) question....

    guys ive got a 2005 seadoo rxp (which has the old standard M30 plug screws on the bottom of the lower crank case.)

    i trashed two plugs removing them, one of the two had to be drilled out they where so dam tight, rediculous.

    im going to replace the trashed two with the new part number,

    my question is do i have to loctite them in, or can i use a thin bead of threebond to retain them/seal them? as i dont want to break them each time i try to remove them!

    they clearly lock in way to tight.! because they are soft alloy the star drive in the plug just chew up / break off leaving you with no way to get a tool on the plug to remove it!

    (i was using a huge snap-on breaker bar, and snap-on t55 socket)

    cheers

    spencer


  2. #2
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    The best way to remove those plugs is via an air lug gun. Its fast, simple, and less like to mess up the plug itself. A breaker bar will work but a good amount of the work ends up as side forces on the plug. The air lug wrench put most of the work in a circular motion.

  3. #3
    It is usually corrosion that causes them to stick, rather than the locktite. I generally clean the threads and o ring off really good and use on the threads. Never had one back out.

  4. #4
    GGG's Avatar
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    New ones come with sealant on them

  5. #5
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    didnt think to use an air lug gun

    ill put them back in with loctite 243, but just a smear.

    i didnt see and corrosion at all.

    may give the o-seal a smear of threebond before i refit too.

  6. #6

    P/N 420641171 (Plug Screw M30 X 1.5) question....

    I just did one that wouldn't budge. Just a little heat and they came out easy.
    I clean them with a wire brush new orings and blue locktite 22 lbs only. I used to use 518.
    Yes and new ones have that yellow thread locker

  7. #7
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    cheers guys thanks for the imput

  8. #8
    Just for future reference.....The yellow goop they put on those threads is the problem, not corrosion, usually. Unlike typical loctite, the yellow stuff doesn't have a yield, or break point like standard loctite. (with red or blue loctite, once the yield point is hit, the removal torque drops way off. the yellow stuff keeps holding on forever) What gets me is how much of the yellow crap that some of these engines have on them. One I removed had so much on the threads, it was seeping all over.

    Just ike the other loctites, though, as Winterstick says, heat is your friend. Don't try to remove these without liberal use of a propane torch. Once they are heated up, they come off pretty easy.

    The other thing that pisses me off is that the standard engine gasket kit doesn't have these o-rings in it. Who put this engine kit together? Of any o-rings in the engine, these are the ones that need replaced as they have the yellow goop on them usually.

  9. #9
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    glad you said about the yellow goop, as this is obviously not the 243 loctite they say to re-use.

    i know what you mean about them not being in a gasket set. they are very pricey o-seals too, Ł10 GBP each!!!!!

  10. #10
    Fast & Loud meeper's Avatar
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    the yellow goop is all you need!!!, the o-rings are enough seal as well, i would not lock tite those things in to save my life. they aren't holding anything structural or moving parts

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