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  1. #1
    nunnink23's Avatar
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    Documenting my full 2001 XLT1200 rebuild/bulletproofing

    As some of you know from prior discussions, I just purchased my girlfriend a 2001 XLT1200. It has a blown engine and a superficial crack on the front of the nose, and we got it for a good deal. I took this on as a winter project and I plan on documenting the process, although I may have gotten a bit ahead of myself already! I need to take some pictures to update, but as of now all I have done is removed the engine and begun disassembling the engine.

    I will certainly have questions, and I am sure I can help answer some others questions as well regarding the 1200 engine, or the XLT platform.

    The basic plan is outlined below.

    Evaluate and rebuild engine, pressure test, and set aside for the winter.

    Rebuild carbs, do all the common mods to the carbs including re jet for a d plate.

    Install d plate.

    Rebuild jet pump, even though it is in good working condition, just to be safe.

    New impeller (12/18 pitch?).

    Intake grate, then seal pump shoe/intake grate.

    Remove front cowling and fix crack, then determine why the hinge does not operate smoothly.

    Reinstall components and water test/evaluate tuning.


    I am sure I have missed a few notes in my list, but I plan on being as meticulous as possible. A few of my initial observations are that the middle cylinder powervalve pin fell out, but the powervalve did not come apart. The front cylinder has no compression and scored up the wall pretty good. I have yet to determine why the first cylinder burnt up until I remove the jugs.

    I also have a few questions:

    1. It has 87 hours used by children. Assuming the crank has no visable damage, and no chips floating around, is it safe to reuse this without cracking the cases?

    2. Is it truly crucial to install a tach to tune it properly? I am building this for reliability, not speed. I may install flame arrestors for the simple reason that there are readily available jetting specs for it.

    3. Should I replace the dropped powervalve with a new one? Or does a used one work? I ask because my last 1200 overheated and sheared a powervalve, and I assume this is a fairly common occurence, but I wanted to ask.

    4. Pro-X pistons for reliability, with a replate from millenium?

    5. How can it be that removing the accelerator pump and re jetting actually yields better throttle response? It seems counter intuitive. I thought the accelerator pump was meant to supply a short blast of fuel to get engine vaccum to increase quickly and therefore draw fuel from the newly opened carbs.


    Those are my initial observations and questions. I will post some pictures even though I got excited and tore into it quickly without documentation!

    Please feel free to any suggestions as well! Thanks!


  2. #2
    Personnally I would split the cases and inspect the crank for contamination since you are already seeing evidence of metal to metal contact. I have not had any issues with Pro-X pistons. Sorry that I cannot help you with your other questions.

  3. #3
    nunnink23's Avatar
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    Re: Documenting my full 2001 XLT1200 rebuild/bulletproofing

    No worries, thanks for the input. I have never split the cases on a 1200. As far as special tools go, is a flywheel puller the only one I need? I certainly don't mind splitting the cases, and I can then inspect the crank fully.

    Inspecting the crank is also a procedure I am unsure of. I have checked the rod end play before with the crank in the motor, but the rest is new to me.

    Other than a flywheel puller, is there anything else I need? Special bearing presses?

  4. #4
    Superman! fivespeedsteed's Avatar
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    Re: Documenting my full 2001 XLT1200 rebuild/bulletproofing

    Quote Originally Posted by nunnink23 View Post
    No worries, thanks for the input. I have never split the cases on a 1200. As far as special tools go, is a flywheel puller the only one I need? I certainly don't mind splitting the cases, and I can then inspect the crank fully.

    Inspecting the crank is also a procedure I am unsure of. I have checked the rod end play before with the crank in the motor, but the rest is new to me.

    Other than a flywheel puller, is there anything else I need? Special bearing presses?

    Yeah you need a puller to get the flywheel off. Splitting cases is easy. Need three bond 1211 to seal back together. Just have a look at it, measure tolerances, ect.

    No need to rejet for d plate, just for deleting accel pump if you do that

  5. #5
    nunnink23's Avatar
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    Re: Documenting my full 2001 XLT1200 rebuild/bulletproofing

    Good plan. I heard it is very difficult to properly install the seals. Is this true? I was told that if you don't do it 100% perfect you will ruin it and it will leak. We will see once I test it, but I would like to do it once!

    I thought it was advisable to re jet a stock ski because they are so lean from the factory. Is this not the case? I was considering going with the classic setup with flame arrestors and jetting, but im still up in the air about that too with the ease of water induction.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by nunnink23 View Post
    Good plan. I heard it is very difficult to properly install the seals. Is this true? I was told that if you don't do it 100% perfect you will ruin it and it will leak. We will see once I test it, but I would like to do it once!

    I thought it was advisable to re jet a stock ski because they are so lean from the factory. Is this not the case? I was considering going with the classic setup with flame arrestors and jetting, but im still up in the air about that too with the ease of water induction.
    read oside bills write up in the how to section. theres nothing to the seals besides making sure you grease them and dont put them on backwards. there is a groove the fit into, pretty simple.

  7. #7

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    i am rebuilding carbs. and installing a d - plate on my 2001 xlt 1200 doing it the oside bill way in the how to section.i will let you now how it comes out ,mine has 125 hours ,comp.100psi x3 need to re chack that when i get it back to gether, the carbs are adjusted and jetted to lean with no cat from the factory, also need after market flame arrestors.

  8. #8
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    Man your brave, carbs scare me! Sending mine out soon

  9. #9
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    That might be the only how to I have not read! I will check it out tomorrow. Here are some pics below of the piston and cylinder. They are pretty bad quality but I will be taking better photos from now on with my camera. Regardless, I cannot figure out what caused the failure on the front cylinder. It has some metal in the case unfortunately so I will need to split the cases for sure and clean it out.

    Any ideas on what caused this? The oil lines were fine, and there are no missing pieces of the piston to explain it. I guess it could have leaned out, but I wont know until I rebuild the carbs.

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  10. #10
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