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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    8

    HELP with 2004 SUV

    Let me start by saying I am NOT a mechanic

    Recently purchased a 2004 SUV - never been in salt water - about 95hrs - missing really bad when purchased but compression test was good - carb not tuned right at all.

    Pulled choke off - put primer pump on - got rid of OSU and went to straight mix in gas to avoid any OSU problems - had carb all re built......after this it ran perfect - very smooth and had all its power.

    After I put 5 more hrs on it I was feeling very good about the dependability of the ski - then out of nowhere it just died while running 3/4 throttle - started up again and would idle fine but would die as soon as I would get going again - limped back to ramp

    pulled the plugs and front plug was grey - not a good sign - checked compression and back/middle were fine but front had none. No shavings or anything on plug but clearly blew the front cylinder I am assuming?

    Havent had it pulled a part yet to determine if crank is still good or what else it might be.....?

    So not sure what my options are?
    can i fix that one cylinder? and is it worth it?
    or
    re-build entire motor?
    and if re-build entire motor what is the best place to purchase a rebuilt motor from? I have heard good and bad things from SBT and they seem to be the most popular?

    What do I need to be concerned about when pulled apart or what do I need to look for as determining factors for fixing or completely rebuilding?

    I know a guy who put over 900 hrs on one of these motors and 500 on another.... and thought this one would last much longer than it did...


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Brick Township, New Jersey, United States
    Posts
    168
    first thing is pull the head off to see what happened in that cylinder, either it detonated or seized or burnt down (hold burnt through piston)

    im no expert on these engines but its probably not too hard to rehone/bore and ring it and should run for another good while...EXCEPT you have to fix and find what caused it because if it ran lean or has an air leak it will just burn down again. if you can pull the head off and put up a few pics one of the yammi guys will have more answers for you

    good luck!

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by cascivic View Post
    first thing is pull the head off to see what happened in that cylinder, either it detonated or seized or burnt down (hold burnt through piston)

    im no expert on these engines but its probably not too hard to rehone/bore and ring it and should run for another good while...EXCEPT you have to fix and find what caused it because if it ran lean or has an air leak it will just burn down again. if you can pull the head off and put up a few pics one of the yammi guys will have more answers for you

    good luck!
    Thanks....will try to get some pics.

    Is it possible to run lean even when mixing oil in gas? 50:1 (might be a stupid question)

    Can I just bore one cylinder or do I need to do all three (if it comes to that)......the other two have real good compression still?

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Brick Township, New Jersey, United States
    Posts
    168

    HELP with 2004 SUV

    I have a Polaris so wait for someone who knows better before you go buy parts. But I beleive if it didn't destroy the wall of that bore than you can get away with a hone. And if it slightly nicked it you can run a slightly larger piston but its not ideal.
    It can def run lean if the carb got gummed up or there's an air leak by that cylinder cause then not only is it not getting gas but no oil is being injected either. If you have a bores cope or a little wand flashlight you can try looking down the spark plug hole without pulling the head off

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    8
    Ok - so pulled the engine a part and looks like the front cylinder has a piston that has been scored really bad along with the sleeve. Not sure what caused it but must have been running lean on the front. I know the guy I purchased it from used ether multiple times to fire it up from it not starting properly due to improper carb settings. This may have started the issue. It was also turned over dry with no fuel and cranked for about 30 seconds while they were trying to prime the fuel. Not sure, but that could have caused the start of the issue? Who knows....

    So coupe of questions... I have two cylinders that look good and one that is bad. I am assuming that some shavings have gotten into the crank since the piston is scored.

    Can I bore out the 1st cylinder only with new piston and rings and rebuild the top end. In addition pull the crank and clean it up along with the core. ????
    Or do I need to bore out all three?

    Do I need to rebuild crank no matter what or can I re use? 100hrs on it?

    Or do I need to just get a complete rebuilt engine? I have not heard great things about SBT rebuilds - Is there anyone else to get a rebuilt from that is better than SBT?

    Seems like all OEM parts are very expensive so if I wanted to rebuild the crank - who do you recommend?

    Obviously I am not sure what to do.....

    thanks for any help

  6. #6
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Madison, WI, USA
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    2,501
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    You're better off to bore and hone all 3 cylinders with all 3 pistons being the same size...but yes you can get away with one piston being different sized. I wouldn't do it that way unless I was just gonna sell it. At 100 hours, the crank is probably ok, but you'll have to inspect it and the bearings. The only bearings you can replace yourself are ones on the either end and the wrist pin bearings. So if the bearings in the middle are bad, you could send it out to Crankworks for a rebuild.

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