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  1. #1

    2004 MSX coolant in oil

    Hi Guys
    I'm new to this forum and new to Polaris. I just purchased a 2004 MSX 110 with 42 hrs on it. When I purchased it the former owner told me it had a small leak in the oil tank allowing water to mix with the oil. After reading some of the great forums I learned the oil tank is fresh water only.
    While changing the green sludged oil I noticed the coolant level was deoping as fast as I was pumping the oil out. I then did a compression check and found I had 140 in the rearcylinder and 70 in the front cylinder. Can any one point me in a direction on what to do next? Low compression is one cylinder and coolant dumping into the oil. Thanks Tbow


  2. #2
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Welcome to Green Hulk!

    You are correct. The water chamber in the oil tank is raw water, not coolant.

    Your symptom sounds like a blown headgasket. By pumping the oil out, I'm guessing you are cranking over the engine with the sump-pump to oil tank line dumping into a bottle, right? Did you remove the spark plugs when you did this? It's a whole lot easier on the starter and battery if you do. But yeah... 70# in the front cylinder is bad. And as you describe the coolant level dropping while pumping out the oil... that definitely sounds like a blown headgasket. Bummer.

    Unfortunately, it's a pretty big task to pull the head. The intake has to be removed... not too bad. The exhaust/turbo has to be removed... this is a pain because of the very long exhaust studs the manifold has to slide off of. You have to lift the engine and rotate it to make room to pull the exhaust off. Then you also have to cut the camshaft chain to get the head off. The head has to come straight up off of long studs that come up through the engine... so you can't have any intake/exhaust hanging off it or it won't fit up through the seat opening. Then getting it all back together and getting the cam timed right can be tricky. Then you'll have to flush the coolant system to remove any oil in there and change the oil (after running it for full circulation) a time or two to get all the remaining coolant out of the oil.

    So sorry to say, it's a pretty involved ordeal. Best of luck.

    Cheers!

  3. #3
    Thanks for the confirmation! Is there anything elese I should do since I'm going to have to pull the engine and can you recomend a site for parts? Thanks Tbowt.

  4. #4
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Randy at Weber Power dot com will have everything you need. He's a great guy for help and advice too.

    If your pulling the engine to replace the head gasket... might as well clean everything while it's out. I used a hot soapy bath to clean all oil/gunk/etc out of my intercooler, heat exchanger, piping/hoses from turbo to intake, intake manifold and coolant side of oil cooler. Avoid water in all the oil stuff like the oil tank or oil side of the oil cooler. Wouldn't want to get any water in there. There will already be some in the oil tracts due to the blown headgasket... no sense getting any more in there. Be sure to rinse well and dry all the stuff you wash real good before reassembly.

    You'll need some new gaskets. Head gasket (obviously) and exhaust manifold gasket... it's a metal gasket. Could maybe reuse it, but I wouldn't chance it. If you remove the after-turbo exhaust pipe... you should replace that gasket too. You may be able to remove it without separating it from the exhaust manifold/turbo piece. The intake manifold uses large O-rings... if they are original... then I'd replace those too. Maybe a valve cover gasket if it looks bad or dry. I didn't replace mine and it was fine. Since you'll be flushing the coolant system, you might consider a new thermostat (and O-ring) depending how many hours are on the ski. Randy sells a drop-in 160 degree t-stat which is a good replacement for the 180 degree stocker... helps engine run cooler. You'll need a new cam chain link to put the chain back together. These are solid rivet pin chain links so they need to be peened (just fyi for when you go to reinstall). Get some new new oil filters while your ordering parts too and maybe a pair of spark plugs too.

    Lastly, not engine related, but the through-hull bearing/seal would be super easy to get to with the engine pulled out of the hull. After pulling the jet pump, you could slide the whole driveshaft into the hull and out to get to the bearing. With the engine in you have to disassemble the driveshaft which can be a challenge.

    After getting it all back together, you'll need to run the engine and probably change out the oil twice to get all traces of coolant out of the system. I'd run cheap oil 15w-40 oil for the flush fill... then run it up to temps to get it good and circulated then change it out for the REQUIRED Polaris or Mobil 1 15w-50 full synthetic oil... cause it's pricey.

    That's all I can think of off the top my head. Should be a good list to get your started and planning.

    Cheers!

  5. #5
    Wow! Thanks
    It looks like I'll have my work cut out for me, its not going to be the 1 hour head gaskit change I did on my boat.
    Again thanks, I learned more about Jet ski's in the last couple of days than I thought I'd ever need to know.
    Tim Tbowt

  6. #6
    Wow! Can I change the Head Gasket without removing the entire motor? The book I have tells me that I have to remove the exhaust and turbo. How do I get the turbo and exhaust pipe off? Is there any sort of magic? Or is there a step by step procedure I need to follow. I stuck and frustrated can anyone help?
    Thanks Tbowt

  7. #7
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Hi Tim,
    Sorry to say... but yeah... you gotta pull the whole motor to change the head gasket.

    Now... I guess you could disconnect everything... and hoist the motor up to move it around so you can get the exhaust/turbo off.. and the intake off. And once those are off... guess you could sit it back down in the hull and leave it there. But you've already done all the work and already have it on the hoist so it just seems easier to me to just finish the job and lift the motor out of the hull. So I guess... "technically" you don't have to pull the motor... but I'd argue it's easier to.

    First times the hardest! Good luck!

    Cheers!

  8. #8
    Thanks alot! This is a real learning experence, if I ever get this apart and back together again, I will really appreciate the knowledge of the people on this forum.
    Thanks again Tim

  9. #9
    Well I finally have the engine pulled from the ski. I do not see any obvious damage to the head gasket. What I do see is some for the plating falling off the front cylinder. Is there anything that can be done about this? If so is there anyone within a couple hours drive from Allentown PA that can do it for me? Any help is geatly appreciated.
    Thanks Tbowt

  10. #10
    Kosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim-Tbowt View Post
    Well I finally have the engine pulled from the ski. I do not see any obvious damage to the head gasket. What I do see is some for the plating falling off the front cylinder. Is there anything that can be done about this? If so is there anyone within a couple hours drive from Allentown PA that can do it for me? Any help is geatly appreciated.
    Thanks Tbowt
    This is a typical fault for the Weber engines fitted to the Polaris MSX, re-sleeve or re-plate, upgrade the oil tank and you will have a very nice reliable ski that will run forever on the smell of an oily rag. The envy of the other big 3

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