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  1. #1

    Couple of fixes!

    Now that the engine is pretty much ready to go, I dug into the two MFDs that I have. The one with the spots was completely unreadable and now is as clear as it can be considering the delamination. The other MFD I bought on eBay for 156 dollars. It looks amazing now. The plastic knob on my hood flew off at me one day so I replaced it with aluminum! Turned out nice! Does anyone have the buttons for the MFD? I only have one set because one set was dry rotten. Until my next update.....
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  2. #2
    ctmaloney's Avatar
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    I have an extra set button. PM your address if your interested and I'll drop it in the mail. That would get you halfway there... I was able to find a set of buttons not too long ago, they are around.

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  4. #3
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    I noticed you cut between the clear plastic and the black. Its much easier to cut behind the black lip on the outer edge. I can get these things open in less than 5 minutes now doing it that with with a small fine tooth hand saw.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by USAF Richards View Post
    Now that the engine is pretty much ready to go, I dug into the two MFDs that I have. The one with the spots was completely unreadable and now is as clear as it can be considering the delamination. The other MFD I bought on eBay for 156 dollars. It looks amazing now. The plastic knob on my hood flew off at me one day so I replaced it with aluminum! Turned out nice! Does anyone have the buttons for the MFD? I only have one set because one set was dry rotten. Until my next update.....

    That aluminum knob is sweet!!!!! I bet you could sell a ton of those if they are somewhat easily made.

  6. #5
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    The display looks kinda cool all clear like that... without the Polaris faceplate in there.

    What does everyone use to seal these after the surgery? I ruined one that was working perfect after my silicone seal failed and water got in and corroded the unit. I'm thinking something stronger like epoxy would be better.

    Cheers!

  7. #6
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    I have used black RTV with good results.

  8. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I normally use epoxy to reseal the MFD case.

    The glued seam will experience stresses when the display is reinstalled since the faceplate supports the weight of the entire MFD. Even though the MFD is not very heavy vibration and rough water pounding require the repair seal to withstand some abuse AND remain 100% watertight.

    Did you see the MFD repair notes from my signature links?

  9. #8
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Mine too was the oval type that rides in the handlebar pad. I cut behind the main pod lip (blue arrow) and everything went great. The display was nice and clear. But my silicone sealant didn't hold and water got in because...



    as you can see in this pic below, the main pod lip of the MFD rides in a groove in the pad... and the tangs(barb) that lock it in are on the bottom of the gauge pod. So when this is fully inserted into the pad, it has a pulling force... the tangs on the pod bottom are locked behind some compressed foam which is pulling the face of the MFD down, keeping it seated into the pad. So any cuts in the pod below this main lip (blue arrow above), have to be glued back together solid... like with epoxy... or it'll pull itself apart as happened to me. Cuts made to the clear faceplate like the OP did, or the green and red arrows above the main lip, won't experience this pressure since there is no cuts in the pod between the main lip and the retaining tangs.



    This doesn't sound to be the case for the round MFDs either since they don't have a retaining tang(barb) creating this pressure and it looks like all cuts are to be made above the main face lip.

    The main discussion threads that detail this procedure all talk about marine goop, RTV, etc. for sealing. I just wanted to highly recommend something stronger like epoxy for anyone making cuts at the blue line.

    Cheers!
    Last edited by K447; 11-19-2012 at 12:56 PM. Reason: Added bolding to epoxy comment

  10. #9

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    damn and i just redid mine with underwater silicone sealant... i wonder if you could silicone in a brace down at the end or a pad to support the lower back portion when you slide it in?

  11. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    After the original Christian posts there were further refinements to the method.

    I use epoxy which provides both a strong bond and a waterproof seal. Silicones and flexible sealants are not great when under tension combined with vibration and the passage of time. Many do not bond all that well to plastics.

    With these MFD you need a 100% good watertight seal that stays watertight and moisture proof over time. Good quality, well mixed and carefully applied epoxy does this.

    I do not like cutting right at/behind the clear plastic face. Very thin area to work in and no need to cut there. Now that we know how it is built internally we know where we can cut with relative ease and fairly safely. Avoid cutting the thin ribbon 'flex wires' to the buttons and the rest is straightforward.

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