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  1. #1

    Help! ?overheating?

    My ski runs like a top when connected to flushing hose or when tied to the dock. However when it starts moving through the water it runs for a short time then shuts down. It then restarts but seems to have rpm limiting, so just idles. No warning messages or lights are coming on. Once it cools down, it runs good again.
    This is a 2002 Polaris Virage i. ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    I would go through all of the cooling lines and check for blockages. Do you run in salt water at all? I would especially check the cooling lines into and out of the EMM. When it "overheats" can you touch any part of the engine? It may just be a bad temp sensor.

  3. #3
    I checked the thermostat and cooling lines. How do I check the temp sensor? Would a bad temp sensor give me a warning on the display?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    check compression , you might be sticking a piston..
    Welcome Aboard

  5. #5
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    Check engine temp with your hand when you get the overheat. you should be able to touch any part of it.

  6. #6
    It is definitely running a lot hotter when moving through the water than when it is hooked up to the flushing hose.

  7. #7
    It is definitely running a lot hotter when moving through the water than when it is hooked up to the flushing hose. The heads and cylinder get too hot to touch for long. Why would it cool OK sitting still, but not when moving?

  8. #8
    urugol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Sydney, Australia
    How long is too long to touch? If you can keep your hand on the cylinder head for 5-10 seconds before burning yourself I would say that's not too bad. In terms of what to check I would definitely remove the cooling rail and check the bypass valve and spring, check for blockages and also remove the thermostat and put it in a pot of boiling water to confirm that the thermostat opens up. Also check all of your cooling lines through removal and inspection. If there is heavy calcification in any of them just replace. Another place to check is behind the stator cooling cover. It's a bit troublesome to get to but the cooling line that goes there does tend to leave a good amount of collected sand behind that cover. You can test your temp sensor with a multimeter should be around 1,000 ohms. Remove and inspect/clean the cooling orifice on the exhaust pipe as well. There are other areas that will cause overheating conditions, such as blocked cylinder cooling jackets and exhaust jackets - which require a bit more wrenching but try all of the other things first. Don't run off the hose for longer than 2 minutes or so as you can overheat your pump seals which are only cooled under load.

  9. #9
    Thanks. This is very helpful. I have blown out all the lines and they seem clear. I cleaned the cooling orifice and had the stator cover off recently and it also looks fine. I will check the temp sensor as you suggest.
    I still don't understand why it runs good when tied off at the dock but gets hot when the hull is moving??

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Hmmm. See my signature links for some useful info related to the two cylinder Ficht engine.

    Tied to the dock but with throttle applied, it stays happy. Untied with same level of throttle it is not happy? Correct?

    Unless you are seeing an actual HOT warning then there may be nothing wrong with the cooling system. Normal operating temperature for the engine (about 140F) means you can put your hand on the engine or exhaust for about 1-2-3-4 seconds before the pain gets excessive. Should not actually burn your skin though.

    If running on the garden hose in reverse flush mode the thermostat has no control over engine temperatures so the garden hose flow can over cool the engine compared to normal hull-in-the-water operation.

    Thermostat can be removed and tested in a pot of water on the stove with a cooking thermometer. Thermostat should open at around 140F.

    Common failure points on the fuel injected Ficht engines are the TPS sensor and the EMM itself.

    If either the TPS or the EMM have problems the symptoms can vary widely, including unexpected engine shut down or idle only engine power.

    TPS can not be reliably tested, only useful test is to install another known good TPS and see if the engine behaves.

    My initial guess is that the TPS is going bad. Next guess is the EMM needs repair. Both are presuming the engine is not over heating and is actually operating around the 'normal' thermostat controlled temperature range.

    EMM module failures are common enough. Sometimes caused by restricted water flow that allows the EMM to cook itself (and often without any warning on the display).

    EMM sometime just need repair of various internal electronic components that degrade with time. If the EMM needs repair then it needs repair.

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