11-26-2012, 09:06 AM #1
11-26-2012, 12:58 PM #2
Looks like you burned through the gel coat, not to beat you down any but what did I stress to you on not to do? Mine was beat up badly, I back filled every scratch and gouge, prepped and then painted it with Duriflint 2 and it looks new, I did it in a way to avoid removing all the decals that are expensive, then pinstriped over my transition lines and I redid the bottom as well it took me 5 days, now since you burned through the old gel coat, your left with a few options, polish it up, if you have to go back and wet sand with 2000 grit, get the majority looking as the rest, Pinstripe over all your mistakes of burn through and match the rest of the ski, or decals, if you have to you can make your own for a nice custom design, or repaint the top as I did, or tape off hard angled lines that will look good with the flow of the ski at the same time covering your mistakes and paint those areas and pinstripe over the lines, or I have seen a truck bed liner used the same way that looks good to and its tough as nails
11-26-2012, 02:58 PM #3
I had a neighbor do it b/c he used to do auto body, and i felt comfortable w/his skills......with that being said, if you want something done, you gotta do it yourself.....So, basically i need to make up a new batch again using the hardner correct???? Then use 2000 grit??? And not to sound stupid (remember im new to this lol) but when you say "BURN" do you mean its getting TOOOO MUCH sanding????
11-26-2012, 02:58 PM #4
I'm also friends w/a guy that does professional spray paint on the side and he said he could do the final spray........but obviously, this needs corrected first
11-26-2012, 05:01 PM #5
- Join Date
- Sep 2012
I think what he's trying to say is that who ever sanded it went to far on the area that was not damaged. I think u might be able to build up that area where its low and and sand it down to fix the gel coat on the area around the high spots. This will mean a new batch of gel coat.
11-26-2012, 05:04 PM #6
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
Don't worry about the burn, you appear to be close, and it isn't a hard fix to clean this up. It is a little hard to see via photos, but if you are all smoothed out, then you should consider spraying on a few coats, blending back with each coat. (first coat, just spray over the spots with the burn through, then subsequent coats cover a larger area). Then just use 600 grit lightly to remove the orange peel and then buff.
Spraying is hard for a novice, especially since you can fuck up the gun if you take too long before cleaning it out. It is better to use a Preval kit for this type of repair for that reason.
11-26-2012, 09:23 PM #7
well since you have a painter then go with what Sea dood said and its a quick ordeal however gel coat is not like painting cars but if he has the exp. and reads up on it he will be ok. yes Burn through = to much sanding, like on anything, for instance the edges of a car stick out slightly as well as corners, you can not see it but they do, if your sanding along and hit the edge you will burn right through to metal/fiberglass in a second if your not careful, same thing with the lip on your ski, when it comes to corners and spraying/shooting your paint or gel you can only put so much in that area and try to cover or you have runs, what I am trying to say is there is less paint/gel on edges and corners then on a strait surface, he will be used to automotive paints that give you hours of pot life, gel coat depending on Temp and catlyst can kick early and ruin a gun, I have never done a simple repair or spot panel, I always repaint the whole thing or shooting lines on the whole thing. Black base, 2 clears and 1 final with wax additive all thinned to 6% STYRENE catlyst depends on temp. befor all this I prep with 120 grit and wipe down with acetone so the gel can bond good. I do truely hope your painter is better then your sander was.
11-27-2012, 09:04 AM #8
Thanks guys....I just hung up w/my painter and told him what you and Seadood said and suggested. He won't be able to get around to it for 2wks, but I'm seriously thinking 'bout taking up the preval idea and do it myself. If i fuck up, i can also sand it out and start over. I'm also not that picky that it doesn't have to turn out perfect.....stickers if its thats bad. I'll post pics as soon as I do it. I did buy black electrical tape to tape off like seadood suggested. Wish me luck! And thank you again!!!!!
11-27-2012, 07:53 PM #9
forget trying to make the gelcoat work in this case, you'll never blend it properly,
Spray on some 2k primer, sand it smooth, 400 to 800, then mask off the plastics turf or what ever is not going to be painted but don't mask off the black gelcoat areas.
get some 2k black base gloss with a fast hardener and spray your repair making sure to cover the primed area and more, feathering out the edges, now between the coats of black spray some blending thinners over the feathered out edges, do it on every coat and be careful not to spray too much as it will run the paint.
when the paint has dried properly, rub the painted repair with 2000 but don't rub too much on the feathered edge as it will cut back the thin blend paint into a thicker part of the paint and show an edge and not a blend.
or your painter will do similar.
11-28-2012, 08:39 PM #10
I would not use any 2k on any boat or jet ski, It will not hold up to the slightest impact and scratches easy, if you Were to go with a paint and not gel go with Duriflint 2 its the next toughest thing to epoxy resin and is what I just did with my gp1200r
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