Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19
  1. #1

    2001 XLT 1200 Cylinder Advice

    On my last outing of the season the ski started running poorly and it felt like I lost a cylinder. It's a 2001 XLT 1200 with about 70 hours on it. It's been running well since I purchased it with about 50 hours on it earlier this year. Compression looked ok (1:117 -- 2:115 -- 3:110), maybe a little low on #3? I went ahead and pulled the head just to take a look. As seen in the photo, the #3 cylinder has a slight nick in it. I don't know a ton about engines, but I'm assuming this is no good despite still having decent compression in the cylinder?

    The oil line is still attached so I'm guessing this damage was due to a lean condition. I'm planning to rebuild the carbs, add a D-Plate, waveeater clips, flame arrestors, remove the accelerator pumps and rejet over the winter. Just trying to figure out what I need to do about this cylinder.

    Questions:
    1) Do I need to repair this cylinder?
    2) Is there a way to determine if this is a nikasil plated cylinder? It's the only cylinder not painted black which I'm interpreting as it having been replaced at one point. Previous owner is unaware of any cylinder repairs, but he was not the original owner either.
    3) If it's nikasil plated is my only repair option to get it replated?
    4) If it's not nikasil plated what are my options?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20121202_224005_820.jpg 
Views:	393 
Size:	73.3 KB 
ID:	288091  


  2. #2
    srjrinc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Sun Valley, CA
    Posts
    122
    Do you have a better pic of the suspect piston? Check for correct piston wash/color......
    I just finish my rebuild on a 03 Xlt 1200, pretty much did what your planning to do....

  3. #3
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Madison, WI, USA
    Posts
    2,500
    +1
    55
    A repeat lean number 3 could be caused by a leaking rear crank seal. Pressure test the engine.

  4. #4
    I'll try to get some better pictures of the piston wash tonight. Anyone have a photo of what a good wash looks like on these engines? From what I've read I believe my wash indicates I'm running lean.

    Cutlass, thanks for the tip. I guess if I've come this far I might as well do it right and pressure test the crankcase.

  5. #5
    Here are better pics of the piston wash. Not exactly sure what I'm looking for, but there doesn't appear to be much area on any of them without carbon deposits. I've read that means they are running lean? I know the photo is not great but can anyone tell if #3 is a steel sleeve? As far as I can tell it looks identical to the other cylinders other than the jug not being painted.

    #1
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	piston_wash_1.jpg 
Views:	100 
Size:	99.2 KB 
ID:	288108

    #2
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	piston_wash_2.jpg 
Views:	98 
Size:	100.9 KB 
ID:	288109

    #3
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	piston_wash_3.jpg 
Views:	93 
Size:	113.4 KB 
ID:	288110

    Also a better pic of the damage on #3. A closer inspection tonight revealed it actually looks like some ring material melted onto the wall, so not really a "nick" but damage none the less. There is some very light scratching next to it, but it is barely more noticeable than the crosshatch when i run my fingers across it. I certainly can't catch a finger nail on it. I've read you can remove melted on material with acid and potentially repair the cylinder that way, but not sure I want to try my hand at that. Any recommendations on somewhere would be able to clean it up and hone it, or am I still looking at getting it replated?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cylinder_3_damage.jpg 
Views:	113 
Size:	73.4 KB 
ID:	288111

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    san juan capistrano ca.
    Posts
    38
    i think i would re build the top end.

  7. #7
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    5,049
    +1
    238
    you have a jug thats nickasil and has been replated. id take a light hone to it, you can buy a hone for your drill for under 30.00.

  8. #8
    Thanks for all the help/suggestions so far. I did a pressure test on the block before tearing it down anymore. Once I finally got the intake sealed properly It held 6psi for over 20min without any drop in pressure. I originally tried to use rubber expansion plugs to plug in the intake, just couldn't get that to work. Once I switched to a homemade neoprene gasket I had much more success. Since there don't appear to be any air leaks I'm marching forward with the plan. Rebuild the top end, rebuild and re-jet carbs, flame arrestors, D-plate, and waveaters clips. Hopefully Santa leaves some parts under the tree for me.

    A parting question: I'm thinking I'll replace the #3 piston (although I really need to get it out and take a look at it first) and then just do the rings on #1 and #2. All OEM parts. Does that seem like a good idea? Should I leave #1 and #2 alone, or should I put new pistons in there in addition to rings?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20121215_174718_476.jpg 
Views:	111 
Size:	92.8 KB 
ID:	288809

  9. #9
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Madison, WI, USA
    Posts
    2,500
    +1
    55
    Replace number 3 piston if it needs it, just make sure its sized properly and the piston to cylinder clearance is in spec. Have a machine shop measure the cylinder and piston if necessary.
    Re-ringing #1 and #2 is a good idea while you're in there, but you could just leave them as is also since the compression numbers are ok. If you do re-ring, make sure you properly seat the rings so they seal. Usually that means you might have to lightly hone,deglaze, or scothbrite those cylinders to a nice crosshatch so the rings have something seat against. Hopefully someone will chime in here and let you know what works best on these nikasil cylinders, since I'm not 100% sure.

  10. #10
    My 03 xlt is Nickasil and I think yours is too... . When my 3rd cyl. went down/had meduim scale seizure awhile back due to oil line popping-off, I consulted an engine builder who suggested I use light emery cloth and oil to remove the aluminium from the cylinder wall. In part, it looks like you had a similiar thing happen with that patch of aluminium on yours... . You still have hone marks on #3 so that may be the way to go... .

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Yamaha 2001 xlt 1200 cylinder question
    By Ratrace in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-15-2014, 02:09 PM
  2. Yamaha 2001 xlt 1200 cylinder question
    By Ratrace in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-14-2014, 06:04 PM
  3. [2001 XLT 1200] Any reason to inspect the pistons, rings, cylinders and heads?
    By D-Sect in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-01-2012, 01:11 AM
  4. Advice for winter project -2001 XLT 1200
    By pvp64 in forum Yamaha How To & FAQs
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-21-2010, 10:58 PM
  5. 2001 Xlt 1200
    By Nitro4Life in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-27-2006, 07:55 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •