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  1. #1
    MoTeC Pete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Melbourne Australia

    Wiring buttons up for Cruise on MoTeC M1

    Hi guys
    A few of you have been asking this so heres something to get you started.

    This solution is by no means perfect but it does work well and the way you would expect.
    The buttons that you wire into are still being used by the factory dash for its standard operation
    You can splice into these buttons and use their triggers to operate functions within the M1 while not effecting the dash.
    When you push them the dash will still change but we have made it that the buttons have to be active for 1 second to operate the M1 features
    This means if you want to just change the dash display, a quick push of the button will operate the dash but do nothing in the M1, get the idea.

    This feature will not work until we release the next major update.
    The update is huge and will give you all a ton of new features for no cost.
    Its a big job for us to test it all and to upgrade each of your ECU files so we are trying to test it thoroughly before we release.

    Inside the right hand handle bar going to the button module you will find 3 wires
    Yes, only 3 wires for four buttons (Very clever Mr Seadoo)
    You should splice into the Black/Orange and Orange/Blue wires
    Try to make a good jjob here, use splices then cover in adhesive heat shrink if at all possible
    Now run the 2 wires down to the M1 and add them to empty slots (see below)

    You will need some M1 ECU pins so contact your local MoTeC guy ( Nils) and get him to make you a short 2 wire loom with the pins crimped on already.
    At the end of the small loom he/you can put a connector on to attach to your button loom, this way if you need to disconnect and remove the M1 adapter harness its just a matter of disconnecting the 2 pin connector rather than pulling pins out of the ECU connector.
    Now, actually at this point precise point in time I haven’t decided which are the best slots to add the pins to, we are still moving allocations around so I will update this post when I get back from the Kings Cup race next week, so for now get all the wiring done and you will be 1 minute away from connecting it once I update you

    Knock wiring bypassWhile you are doing this you should do the following to get the onboard knock functional
    There are 2 connectors marked knock in the adapter loom
    You should take the single grey wire from slot#2 of the 2 pin DTM and join it to the grey wire in slot #2 of the 4 pin DTM
    The easiest way to do this is to purchase from your MoTeC guy a 4 pin male DTM connector
    Extract the wire from the 2 pin connector and put it into the 4 pin connector slot#2 then plug the two 4 pin DTMs together. Easy!!
    Dont get it wrong, there are 2 grey wires in the 4 pin DTM
    As above I will update you guys next week with more.



  2. #2
    GRF + DashPac:) seadoo02xp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    could you also add next time you update the thread what pins we would need to wire in a switch for the dual map feature please?

  3. #3
    Tiny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    The Atl
    Have a safe trip Pete!!!!!

  4. #4 Scott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    How we looking Pete?

  5. #5
    Pete, take this from a guy that messes with EFI logic all the time... That is quite clever. Good work.


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