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  1. #1

    Newbie Carb rebuild "stock" XLT 1200 - 2004

    I have a (new to me) "stock" XLT 1200 with some Rive stuff that needs a carb rebuild.
    Riva stuff are S3 exhaust and maybe cylinder heads see attached pics:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have read ALOT about rebuild but still have a few questions.
    Since I will use the original flame arrestor I will not change any jets.
    • Can I clean the carbs and keep the jets without removing the tamper cap that hides the jets, or will it not be a sufficient clean if I keep the jets ? (I have access to air compressor)

    How importent is the "pop off" ?
    I assume a pop off at about 80 psi is ok with stock settings.
    • Can I replace the springs with new similar ones and be happy or do I have to build a pop off test bench ?

    • Is is enough to bleed the oil lines with the bleedscrew at the pump ? Will the oil lines towards the carbs be filled fast enough ?
    • According to the service manual one should count number of turns of the pilot screw but am not quite sure where I can find the pilot screw and what a "normal" setting should be.

  2. #2
    mudslanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Huntsville Al
    OK there is a lot of things you need to know about your engine as it is. 1 thing it has flame arrestors 2 it has aftermarket heads 3 aftermarket exhaust and probably D plate and chip and probably jetted carbs. most likely and probably pump work just from what the picture shows.

    The first thing you need to do is get a base line compression on the engine and inspect the plugs for signs of lean or rich conditions. it would be great if the previous owner got the jetting in the carbs wright without touching the settings on the carbs. NOT likely.

    you will most likely need to remove the tamper caps and get some T handles. and yes test the popoff pressure make sure they don't leak and are poping off at the wright pressure.

    If you are staying with oil injection and your oil lines are still in good condition then you should clip a little off the ends were they attach to the carbs. and use good clamps. as far as bleeding the oil pump at the bleeder tube it is not needed unless you remove the pump from the engine and oil supply line. I usually premix oil with gas at a ratio of 40to1 for 1 tank after carb. rebuilds just in case of a problem with the oil injection system. then check the plugs to make sure everything is working properly.

  3. #3
    The seller didnt know too much about the ski, he just ran it. It was imported to Sweden in 2006 with all the Riva stuff on it.
    I am the third owner since new, it has seen about 190 hours. If it was totaly messed up I would assume that it would have fallen into pieces all ready. Compression is 140 psi on all 3 cylinders.

    Some more pics can be found here

    S3 stinger is off and no sign of D plate or cat, I assume the S3 pipe replaces them both. No temp alarm so I guess the chip is in there.
    Carbs are comming of this week and I will have more info then about the current shape and modifications.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    san juan capistrano ca.
    i used the how to section ,osbill way for rejeting.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    san juan capistrano ca.
    i ment osidebill.

  6. #6
    sarabia, are you using stock flame arrestor ?

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    san juan capistrano ca.
    nope, i bought a one piece r&d i havent got my ski done yet but i am sure it will work good.

  8. #8
    So your advice is not vaild for a stock ski then. Good luck with your build.

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