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  1. #1
    Mighty Mouse's Avatar
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    Converting sealed pump bearings to oil bath

    Anyone considered converting their sealed pump bearings to an oil or grease bath? All it would take is to remove the rubber dust covers and fill the carrier with pump oil? Seems like a better system to me than relying on a couple of dust cover holding grease in. What you guys think?


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    It has been done. I think beerdart did it on one of his projects. Not really necessary to do in my opinion though. As lone as your pump seals are good either way works out.

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    Mighty Mouse's Avatar
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    The only issue may be tapping in a drain/fill plug in the cone. I think it may be a bit thin. Might give it try though.

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    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    I have been running the oil/grease bath for three years in the SLT and two years in the MSX no problems. I do not add a fill port just a use a thinned down grease mix. Prior to this the MSX would shit out bearings every two rides now that boat with the power would suck water on takeoff and the stock sealed bearings would rust. With the oil/grease mix I still get water but its displaced by the mix.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mighty Mouse View Post
    Anyone considered converting their sealed pump bearings to an oil or grease bath? All it would take is to remove the rubber dust covers and fill the carrier with pump oil? Seems like a better system to me than relying on a couple of dust cover holding grease in. What you guys think?
    You can convert from grease, as Beerdart has done.

    Keep in mind that there are many, many Polaris watercraft running around with the stock bearing grease configuration.

    Good quality bearings that are themselves properly greased, and of course good quality shaft seals riding on an undamaged stub shaft should provide years of service.

    Make sure the tail cone is not hairline cracked. Polaris uses a stock o-ring to seal the tail cone, but you can also add the flat rubber gasket as was factory on later model years.

    Part numbers can be found via my signature links.

  6. #6
    Mighty Mouse's Avatar
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    I use your web page all the time K447. Awsome information. I am sure the sealed bearing is fine. It's all about keeping the water out. Since I am rebuilding the pump, now is the time to make the change. A sealed bearing runs in the same grease all the time at 6500 rpms+. I doubt marine grease. On the other hand an oil bath bearing is in constant oil circulation. The oil also lubricates the seal as well and perhaps maybe provide a positive pressure keeping water at bay. Seems like the oil lubricated seal would last a bit longer than just the water cooling on the outside.

  7. #7
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    When you change the bearings......after all the seals are out,bearings and o-ring, heat the stator in the oven. For 45 min at 200 degrees and put the new bearings in the freezer.

    When your ready. Pull stator out of oven,drop in bearing one, seat it , then quickly add oil slurry then spacer and drop the other bearing in and seat it. They will fall right in. You have about 10 seconds for each one before they start to stick. Pull 1 at a time out of the freezer. They warm and expand fast.

    if you plan on filling the nose cone, leave a little room for the stub shaft or else the grease won't let you get the cone back on! Been there done that. Good luck!

    Don't forget to put that aluminum SPACER back in or you will be pissed.lol

  8. #8
    Mighty Mouse's Avatar
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    My thoughts were to use just pump oil or synthetic gear oil. What is the mix of "slurry"? Marine greese/oil formula?

  9. #9
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    I mix grease with gear oil till its pour-able.

  10. #10
    Mighty Mouse's Avatar
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    Do you use synthetic oil and marine grease or dyno oil/grease? What weight is the oil?

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