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  1. #1

    Sea Doo 3D DI running issue

    Hi guys I'm having an issue with my 3D DI, I get about 3 minutes of ride time until it coughs and splutters and eventually won't go, if feels like I'm running out of fuel but with a full tank. 6 months ago I had an issue with the exhaust resonator which I replaced with stainless steel pipe but the ski took on heaps of water which I cleaned out and had running plenty of times since out if water but not in the water till 2 weeks ago when these problems started. This is what I've done so far
    Replaced plugs
    Moved ignition module so it doesn't arc out on the handle lock bracket
    Drained and replaced fuel 3 times and used mentholated spirits to absorb any water
    Used grease to seal plug leads at plug end and ignition end to avoid arcing

    All with no luck the ski has only done 14 hours so wear and tear is low. As I say it starts out fine I get about 3 minutes then when the coughing starts then I have to push it in (not deep) by the time it's on the trailer it starts and revs fine if I put it back in the water I get about a minute out if it. Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Sounds like either a fuel or air pressure issue, most likely a fuel pressure issue based upon your description. (could also be a rectifier issue, but more than likely a fuel issue...)

    Does it throw any codes? (does the MAINT light come on when it does this?)

    The best thing for you to do at this point is to put a fuel pressure gauge in line just before the fuel rail and monitor the fuel pressure over the running period, paying special attention to what the pressure does just before it coughs and dies. Putting a gauge inline is not easy on a DI because of the special connectors. You could cut the line and put in a tee, but if you do this, use good quality clamps because it is high pressure (100 psi +)

  3. #3
    [QUOTE=Sea Dood;2088062]Sounds like either a fuel or air pressure issue, most likely a fuel pressure issue based upon your description. (could also be a rectifier issue, but more than likely a fuel )

    Your spot on, I put it in the trailer with the hose hooked up to test the regulator assuming it was getting hot and faulting but when the pressure built up and the inline canister filter started spraying fuel out through a tiny rust spot. There doesn't appear to be anyone in OZ that sells an aftermarket unit only the whole pump which is outright stupid. Do I need it? will the filter in the bottom of the fuel tank do? Then I can just go to a high pressure hose place to get one made.

  4. #4
    Hi guys I'm back. After replacing the fuel filter and getting new lines made up. I put it in the water for the first time today and after 3 minutes is shut down, starts a couple of times and stalls out exactly as it did before the fuel filter replacement. If I leave it 10 minutes it will start and stall out after about 20 seconds. I have run it without the voltage regulator connected and it acts the same. Any ideas ? Is there a heat sensor inbuilt that shuts the system down when it gets hot? as it appears to be heat related.

  5. #5
    AndinoWatercraft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Puerto Rico
    Carefully remove the air/fuel rail. Dissasamble the fuel injectors and the air injectors. Look for moisture (sediment) , clean well and do the same with the rail. Also If you can remove the air compressor head (you will need to replace the gasket) and inspect for the same sediment inside. Also do a heat test (by hand) feeling the cylinders in order to notice if one is hotter than the other. Thay way you can be sure both cyls are working. This DI's are sensitive and speccially if they ingest water (sorry for the bad english)

    Just my .02

  6. #6
    AndinoWatercraft has good suggestions, but if I were you, I would start first with monitoring the dynamic fuel pressure first. Just so you are aware, the DI fuel injection system has a "tipping point" with the fuel and air pressures. Most other FI systems can tolerate a range of pressure, but not the Orbital system on a DI. You might be at say 95 psi with your fuel pressure and running, and it drops to 94 and it quits. (the "tipping point" varies a bit, so don't use these values as a guide) Given what you have described, I bet this is what is happening. You start out with just enough pressure to run, and it drops slightly and it doesn't.

    The DI system has a fuel pump, two fuel filters (one at bottom of pump, one in-line that you already changed), an air compressor, a fuel pressure regulator (on fuel rail) and an air pressure regulator (on fuel rail). All of these must work perfectly for it to run.

    Start by putting a gauge on the fuel line between filter and rail. When you put the key on the post (but not try to start it), you should have 27 psi +/- 2psi on the gauge, and it should stay at that pressure indefinitely. This tells you the pressure regulator is working properly. Then when you start and run the engine, you should have 107 PSI +/- 2 psi. If you don't, it could be anyone of a number of things, but most likely the fuel pump. If I were you, I would do this test on the trailer, then take it for a ride and see what happens to the pressure. Report back what you find.

  7. #7
    Triple-C RedRockSA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    West Coast, South Africa
    I am awaiting further development on this as I too have a similar issue., so please do update as this unfolds. Thanks.

  8. #8
    Ok thanks I will start with the fuel pressure. Where do I get a 107 psi gauge?

  9. #9
    You can get gauges just about anywhere. Just get one with an upper range of 125 to 175 PSI, very common. Here's a place that sells cheap, but accurate, gauges online:

    I would get the one that goes 0-160 psi.

  10. #10
    guys chris from germany i am interested in all 3d mailings but cant post because newbie ...
    has somebody the knee pad for the 3d for sell ?

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