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  1. #1
    bkweld's Avatar
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    replace through hull bearing/seal

    2003 STX12F. what are the basic steps involved in replacing the through hull bearing/seal? Can I just slip the drive shaft out from the rear so as to effect the necessary repairs?


  2. #2
    Not so easy, it was designed by monkeys.

    rt

    Last edited by rotortiller; 01-12-2013 at 09:23 AM.

  3. #3
    remove pump.
    lift engine high enough to remove shaft.
    remove shaft and unbolt seal.
    slide new seal onto good shaft and slide into through hull. (do not bolt up)
    drop engine into place engaging coupler.
    install jet pump.
    align engine and bolt it down.
    put sealant onto new seal and bolt it up.
    now replace all the other bits that i didn't mention, ie exhaust F/A box etc, etc

  4. #4
    bkweld's Avatar
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    ok, so not so easy as was thy old seadoo and I'm going need more beer.
    thanx

  5. #5
    bkweld's Avatar
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    "lift engine high enough to remove shaft."

    the manual say's remove the engine entirely, which I'm prepared to do. If the "lifting it just enough option" still includes removing everything listed in engine removal, I might as well take it out...or can I leave some of that stuff in there? What exactly can I leave?

  6. #6
    bkweld's Avatar
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    Removed engine this morn...about an hour +/- no big deal. Now I can clean & inspect hull, hoses etc. Ill replace the dampener, through hull bearing/seal, check pump bearings etc. At 148 hrs, I'm over due for a valve clearance check too.

  7. #7
    bkweld's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I thinks I found my leak possibly caused by an improperly aligned engine?..from the factory. That's ok, 148 hrs/10 years no major issues. I adjusted valve clearance to within specs, replaced four inner head cover gasket (spark plug port) one was broken and allowed oil to seep into an air suction valve which had to be cleaned up and checked along w/ fifty other things listed in the periodic maint chapter. Should be back in bizz by Sun for a lake test.
    One thing I knew I needed to replace was the fuel vent check valve. 2" long made from what looks like cheap black plastic designed to vent air in as fuel is drawn from the fuel tank. Instead, gas seeps out from under/ around cowl on hot days/full tank of gas. There were reports of some fire associated with my model year and vin# and I was notified of a recall. The dealer just checked mine, didn't replace...still leaks. I was surprised upon ordering a new one from Kawi today, it looks identical to the one I'm trying to replace and costs !!!!$45.00???? Perhaps Kawi decided the recall was not needed after all and are charging this ridiculous price in effort to recoup costs involved with the recall? I'm think'n I should be able to find something better at Advance Auto for about $5. What say you?

  8. #8
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    replace through hull bearing/seal

    It's just a one way breather go buy one at pep boys for 5$.

  9. #9
    I'm think'n I should be able to find something better at Advance Auto for about $5. What say you?
    If you can find a better valve that will work then I'd do so if it is leaking. If it is leaking because of routing/poor installation I'd fix that and keep the valve, might be the rubber tubing. It should flow only in one direction with minimal effort (blow into the sucker with your mouth).

    As for the bearing holder, I'd check the shaft and also flex coupling area for run out, just in case

    rt
    Last edited by rotortiller; 01-19-2013 at 06:01 AM.

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