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  1. #1

    seadoo 140mm alignment tool dimensions

    I know I could rent this tool from SBT but I have access to free material and a free CNC at work so I'm better off making my own! My ski is stored for winter and I don't have access to it to get measurements. Anyone could get me these dimensions from either their pump or their SBT tool? Or any dimensions that can get me to precisely figure out the location of the 5 holes:



    I know tippy made a CAD of a plate but I'm pretty sure it's for the 150mm pump...


  2. #2

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    Instead of making the plate and the bushing, you can just use your pump by removing your prop and shaft-- bolt it to the back of the ski and slide your alignment bar through it.

  3. #3
    Myself's Avatar
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    Overrated. I've done hundreds of Seadoos and NEVER used an alignment tool. Pump needs bolted tight in place Motor mount bolts loose. You can feel slight play in all directions where shaft meets up into PTO. Good to go tighten everything down. If there is binding in any direction, shuffle the motor around ever so slightly until play is felt. This method has never failed me.

  4. #4
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    Um, yeah...About that......You must be the guy who told me that an old 2 stroke will align itself if I put a fresh rebuild in the hull and rev it to 6000 RPM and that the "harmonics" of the engine at that RPM will align it perfectly.....Hows that working for you????

  5. #5

    Re: seadoo 140mm alignment tool dimensions

    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Overrated. I've done hundreds of Seadoos and NEVER used an alignment tool. Pump needs bolted tight in place Motor mount bolts loose. You can feel slight play in all directions where shaft meets up into PTO. Good to go tighten everything down. If there is binding in any direction, shuffle the motor around ever so slightly until play is felt. This method has never failed me.
    Overrated I think not but u can get it close. I personally use a alignment tool on all my skis but im trying to get all the performance out of mine that I can. Especially on the hx and xpl with 2 drive shafts you must use the tool as I have seen them run great for several weeks when aligned without the tool but eventually take out a coupler or strip the splins

  6. #6
    Myself's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1995hx View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Overrated. I've done hundreds of Seadoos and NEVER used an alignment tool. Pump needs bolted tight in place Motor mount bolts loose. You can feel slight play in all directions where shaft meets up into PTO. Good to go tighten everything down. If there is binding in any direction, shuffle the motor around ever so slightly until play is felt. This method has never failed me.
    Overrated I think not but u can get it close. I personally use a alignment tool on all my skis but im trying to get all the performance out of mine that I can. Especially on the hx and xpl with 2 drive shafts you must use the tool as I have seen them run great for several weeks when aligned without the tool but eventually take out a coupler or strip the splins
    Again, nope.....I rebuilt a ported and piped 787 powered '95 hx 2 years ago for some customers. Also had to replace a badly galled rear driveshaft and the support bearing assembly. Put it all back together with original splined front shaft using my method and no alignment tool. You just need to pay close attention to detail. That thing runs in the low 60's all day and has some nasty holeshot with the Skat pump. He will be needing a new starter this year and I keep trying to get him to upgrade to the 96-97 style front driveshaft but he says he'll just wait until it goes.

    By the way, I'm also the guy that replaced his whole frontent on his smallblock powered S10 and did the alignment myself using nothing more than a torpedo level, some string, a tape measure, and a marker. Tracks straight and true and does not wear tires. I've also set up rear gears in that and 3 other weekend toys locally with nothing more than "feel" and a sheet of notebook paper.

    If you are not mechanically advanced you might go ahead and build or rent a tool. If you've been wrenching for over 18years and can feel the difference between .003" and .008" then "feel" it out and run it.

    I'm not saying any of my methods are proper or that everybody should do it. I'm just stating that it CAN in fact be done.

  7. #7

    Re: seadoo 140mm alignment tool dimensions

    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 1995hx View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Overrated. I've done hundreds of Seadoos and NEVER used an alignment tool. Pump needs bolted tight in place Motor mount bolts loose. You can feel slight play in all directions where shaft meets up into PTO. Good to go tighten everything down. If there is binding in any direction, shuffle the motor around ever so slightly until play is felt. This method has never failed me.
    Overrated I think not but u can get it close. I personally use a alignment tool on all my skis but im trying to get all the performance out of mine that I can. Especially on the hx and xpl with 2 drive shafts you must use the tool as I have seen them run great for several weeks when aligned without the tool but eventually take out a coupler or strip the splins
    Again, nope.....I rebuilt a ported and piped 787 powered '95 hx 2 years ago for some customers. Also had to replace a badly galled rear driveshaft and the support bearing assembly. Put it all back together with original splined front shaft using my method and no alignment tool. You just need to pay close attention to detail. That thing runs in the low 60's all day and has some nasty holeshot with the Skat pump. He will be needing a new starter this year and I keep trying to get him to upgrade to the 96-97 style front driveshaft but he says he'll just wait until it goes.

    By the way, I'm also the guy that replaced his whole frontent on his smallblock powered S10 and did the alignment myself using nothing more than a torpedo level, some string, a tape measure, and a marker. Tracks straight and true and does not wear tires. I've also set up rear gears in that and 3 other weekend toys locally with nothing more than "feel" and a sheet of notebook paper.

    If you are not mechanically advanced you might go ahead and build or rent a tool. If you've been wrenching for over 18years and can feel the difference between .003" and .008" then "feel" it out and run it.

    I'm not saying any of my methods are proper or that everybody should do it. I'm just stating that it CAN in fact be done.
    Not gonna argue with you but ask any top racer/tuner if you should be taking chances like that. Im just saying I bet if I was to put a alignment tool on his ski it would be off. just say and not saying it cant be done just saying its not a good idea for your average guy building a ski.

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  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 1995hx View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Overrated. I've done hundreds of Seadoos and NEVER used an alignment tool. Pump needs bolted tight in place Motor mount bolts loose. You can feel slight play in all directions where shaft meets up into PTO. Good to go tighten everything down. If there is binding in any direction, shuffle the motor around ever so slightly until play is felt. This method has never failed me.
    Overrated I think not but u can get it close. I personally use a alignment tool on all my skis but im trying to get all the performance out of mine that I can. Especially on the hx and xpl with 2 drive shafts you must use the tool as I have seen them run great for several weeks when aligned without the tool but eventually take out a coupler or strip the splins
    Again, nope.....I rebuilt a ported and piped 787 powered '95 hx 2 years ago for some customers. Also had to replace a badly galled rear driveshaft and the support bearing assembly. Put it all back together with original splined front shaft using my method and no alignment tool. You just need to pay close attention to detail. That thing runs in the low 60's all day and has some nasty holeshot with the Skat pump. He will be needing a new starter this year and I keep trying to get him to upgrade to the 96-97 style front driveshaft but he says he'll just wait until it goes.

    By the way, I'm also the guy that replaced his whole frontent on his smallblock powered S10 and did the alignment myself using nothing more than a torpedo level, some string, a tape measure, and a marker. Tracks straight and true and does not wear tires. I've also set up rear gears in that and 3 other weekend toys locally with nothing more than "feel" and a sheet of notebook paper.

    If you are not mechanically advanced you might go ahead and build or rent a tool. If you've been wrenching for over 18years and can feel the difference between .003" and .008" then "feel" it out and run it.

    I'm not saying any of my methods are proper or that everybody should do it. I'm just stating that it CAN in fact be done.
    I hope that nobody listens to your "advice". Just because you are a long time shadetree mechanic that has gotten away without using the proper tools for the job doesn't make it right.

  10. #9
    Myself's Avatar
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    Have you ever had a set of tires changed? I bet those guys used a torque wrench for the final setting too huh? Hmmmm.... they must be shadetree and not know what they're doing either. Have you ever changed lanes without signaling? We have all gotten away with it, but that doesn't make it right either. As far as "advice", anybody can take that for just what it is, AND with a grain of salt.

    As I said earlier, my methods may not be for everybody. If I was setting up a machine for racing I would set it all up with an angle finder and laser sight. The fact is I'm a little more than shadetree and fix all the skis for the local powersports dealer. I also fix problem skis for the local Yamaha/Seadoo shop and Polaris dealers If it's too involved or eluding for their techs. If you look at the splined ends of a Seadoo driveshaft you'll notice they are not straight cylindrical, they are somewhat egg shaped. This allows for so many thousandths of deflection during hull deformation in rough water or wave jumping. It also allows for a "close enough for government work" fit between the two as long as nothing is in a bind. The people that have had stripped driveshaft/PTO problems are the ones that mount something up in a bind, do a swap and don't replace the mount shims, have bad motor mounts, or just don't grease the driveline.

  11. #10

    Re: seadoo 140mm alignment tool dimensions

    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Have you ever had a set of tires changed? I bet those guys used a torque wrench for the final setting too huh? Hmmmm.... they must be shadetree and not know what they're doing either. Have you ever changed lanes without signaling? We have all gotten away with it, but that doesn't make it right either. As far as "advice", anybody can take that for just what it is, AND with a grain of salt.

    As I said earlier, my methods may not be for everybody. If I was setting up a machine for racing I would set it all up with an angle finder and laser sight. The fact is I'm a little more than shadetree and fix all the skis for the local powersports dealer. I also fix problem skis for the local Yamaha/Seadoo shop and Polaris dealers If it's too involved or eluding for their techs. If you look at the splined ends of a Seadoo driveshaft you'll notice they are not straight cylindrical, they are somewhat egg shaped. This allows for so many thousandths of deflection during hull deformation in rough water or wave jumping. It also allows for a "close enough for government work" fit between the two as long as nothing is in a bind. The people that have had stripped driveshaft/PTO problems are the ones that mount something up in a bind, do a swap and don't replace the mount shims, have bad motor mounts, or just don't grease the driveline.
    I never agreed or disagreed with ya just putting my 2 cents out there.and you are right about seadoo drive shafts they are egg shaped to allow deflection.

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