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  1. #1

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    rear drive coupler removal

    Hello , i would like to know how you get the rear drive coupler off the crank while the crank is still in . I have searched and there is a thread that says put a bit of rope in the rear cylinder , is this the done thing or is there another way ? Wont the rope techniquie put a bit of strain on the rod and bearings ? Thanks


  2. #2
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    The rope method works, just make sure none of the rope goes out the intake or exhaust port holes or it could get chopped off and stuck in the engine. Of course that won't matter if you're tearing the whole motor down anyways.
    These couplers get pretty stuck on there so be prepared with a big cheater pipe or an impact wrench if you have the coupler tool. Heating the coupler up with a propane torch also helps.

  3. #3
    powerstroke specialist mikegp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    The rope method works, just make sure none of the rope goes out the intake or exhaust port holes or it could get chopped off and stuck in the engine. Of course that won't matter if you're tearing the whole motor down anyways.
    These couplers get pretty stuck on there so be prepared with a big cheater pipe or an impact wrench if you have the coupler tool. Heating the coupler up with a propane torch also helps.
    +1 heating is a most.

  4. #4

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    1/2 impact works wonders, I struggled with all the other ways, heat, long breaker bars and such until I thought of trying the impact. Much simpler for me.

  5. #5
    If the motor is out you can always leave the top attached to a cherry picker to stabilize the motor or have a friend hold it in position. With the flywheel on, use a flywheel or harmonic balancer pulley and bolt it to the flywheel. Stick a lever (prybar) through the bolts on the puller so that it wedges on the floor. Use another lever on the coupler side and screw it off. I prefer this over rope as I will not use nothing but a piston stop in a cylinder.

  6. #6
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Thats a good way to twist the crank out of phase.
    Quote Originally Posted by chevyrocks3 View Post
    If the motor is out you can always leave the top attached to a cherry picker to stabilize the motor or have a friend hold it in position. With the flywheel on, use a flywheel or harmonic balancer pulley and bolt it to the flywheel. Stick a lever (prybar) through the bolts on the puller so that it wedges on the floor. Use another lever on the coupler side and screw it off. I prefer this over rope as I will not use nothing but a piston stop in a cylinder.

  7. #7
    powerstroke specialist mikegp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    Thats a good way to twist the crank out of phase.
    Quote Originally Posted by chevyrocks3 View Post
    If the motor is out you can always leave the top attached to a cherry picker to stabilize the motor or have a friend hold it in position. With the flywheel on, use a flywheel or harmonic balancer pulley and bolt it to the flywheel. Stick a lever (prybar) through the bolts on the puller so that it wedges on the floor. Use another lever on the coupler side and screw it off. I prefer this over rope as I will not use nothing but a piston stop in a cylinder.
    +++10 EXACTLY!!!!!!!

  8. #8

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    Can i use the rope idea to tighten the flywheel bolt , but in number one instead ? Cheers

  9. #9
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Yes you always want to stop the crank web on the end your working on.
    Quote Originally Posted by zacc300 View Post
    Can i use the rope idea to tighten the flywheel bolt , but in number one instead ? Cheers

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    Thats a good way to twist the crank out of phase.
    Quote Originally Posted by chevyrocks3 View Post
    If the motor is out you can always leave the top attached to a cherry picker to stabilize the motor or have a friend hold it in position. With the flywheel on, use a flywheel or harmonic balancer pulley and bolt it to the flywheel. Stick a lever (prybar) through the bolts on the puller so that it wedges on the floor. Use another lever on the coupler side and screw it off. I prefer this over rope as I will not use nothing but a piston stop in a cylinder.
    Thanks Beerdart, I did not know that. It does make sense though. In my case, the coupler was easily removed by that method but I understand that my coupler wasn't that tight. I just don't like sticking anything into a cylinder. If I did, it would be a piston stop and not rope.

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