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  1. #1

    Whats next? Water in oil.

    Hey Guys,

    What's next? I'm still watching my coolant level drop and getting water in my oil.
    This is what I have done so far.
    I had the head renikasealed and honed, new pistons, new head gasket, new thermostat, new waterpump, I believe I replaced every gascet on the machine. I'm at a loss and don't know what to do. After I put the motor in it started right up, but the check engine light came on and the throttle doesn't revaIs this because of the check engine warning?
    Any and all advise is appreciated.
    Thanks Tbowt


  2. #2
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Oh... man, that stinks. Sorry to hear.

    When you had the oil cooler out, did you pressure test it to ensure there wasn't a leak between the oil side and coolant side?

    When you run the ski, are you on the hose or in the water? I'm wondering if perhaps it's not raw water in the oil from a bad oil tank... (did you ever pressure test that?)... and the coolant is maybe getting burned? Yeah... not sure how probable that is with a new head gasket. I'm assuming you checked both head and block for flatness. Could you have a crack in the block or head some where sucking coolant?

    As for the check engine light. Hard to tell what that could be... since we can't read the codes (w/o DW). It could be the same code that it triggered from the last time it ran and the ski hasn't run enough to move that code from current to history in the ECU. When you tap the starter (not starting it) to wake up the display... do you hear the electronic throttle body sweeping?

    Good luck!

  3. #3
    Kosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim-Tbowt View Post
    Hey Guys,

    What's next? I'm still watching my coolant level drop and getting water in my oil.
    This is what I have done so far.
    I had the head renikasealed and honed, new pistons, new head gasket, new thermostat, new waterpump, I believe I replaced every gascet on the machine. I'm at a loss and don't know what to do. After I put the motor in it started right up, but the check engine light came on and the throttle doesn't revaIs this because of the check engine warning?
    Any and all advise is appreciated.
    Thanks Tbowt
    Hi Tim,
    Assuming all the rework is OK and there are no cylinder head cracks you would have to assume the oil cooler. Difficult to test in place but you could try if you are flexible. If you did pressure test it (and you should of) I would start rechecking the easiest first - water pump seal.
    Hope its not summer where you are!

    Edit: Another test while you are at it; Check that your coolant cap is relieving at the correct pressure. Easy to remove the bottle and do.
    Last edited by Kosh; 01-20-2013 at 12:03 AM. Reason: another thought

  4. #4
    Hey guys,

    The rebuild went well, no cracks or warping, it specs out like new. I did not look into the oil cooler I assumed since the machine had low compression and was smoking like a "well smoking alot" it was a head gasket problem. I don't know much about the oil cooler, what is the water side vs the oil side and how would the two mix? Is there correct way to put it on?It seems like the antifreez is doing down as fast as I put it in and its all goint to the oil storage tank. After a few minutes of running the engine warning light came on and the machine would only idle at around 1800 rpms plus the throtle would not work.Could this be because of the engine waring light and very high level of oil and antifreez in the oil storage tank? I ordered a used oil cooler on ebay what are the odds that this will fix all my problems?
    Thanks Tbowt

  5. #5
    mabguru's Avatar
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    Engine RPM limited to 1800 and check engine MIL light is on = ECU is in Limp Home Mode. Trouble may be associated with ETB, or PPU components.
    Last edited by mabguru; 01-23-2013 at 06:21 PM.

  6. #6
    Engine probably got hot and burned rings.
    Likely candidate for the coolant issue is the oil cooler.

  7. #7
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    The oil cooler sits in the front under the intercooler. It's round like a large pipe. There are large rubber end-caps on either end where the coolant comes in and goes out. There are 2 smaller hose attachments on the bottom where the oil lines hook-up. Not possible to mix the coolant/oil lines. I would pull the whole cooler and clean it out. Then I'd pressurize the oil lines and see if it leaks across to the coolant side. It would be easier to rig up a pressure fitting on the smaller oil connections than the larger coolant end-caps.

    Check the hose out of the coolant reservoir and make sure it's not wrongly plumbed into the oil cooler. That hose out of the coolant reservoir goes under the oil tank, around the engine, under the exhaust and over to the water-pump.

    Are you running the engine on the hose?

  8. #8
    I'm an idiot!
    I took out the old oil cooler to test it and it's so bad I did not even need any pressure. I put oil in the waterside and it came out the oil side. Why did I not do that while I had the motor out the first or second time? I'm getting pretty good at moving the motor around.

    I just picked up the upgraded oil tank with the roll over tank.

    Does anyone have any instructions?

    Thanks Tbowt
    Last edited by K447; 01-26-2013 at 11:10 PM.

  9. #9
    Kosh's Avatar
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    Excellent, I love a success story, most people give up on these early on these because they are difficult to work on.
    Once you have it sorted you will have years of trouble free use and hardly use any fuel in the process.

  10. #10
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Did you get the upgraded oil tank *kit* that comes with all the hoses and attachment bracket for the the rollover tank? Or just the 2 tanks alone?

    Check out this thread. Good info about the upgraded oil tank kit and pictures of it hooked up.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...l=1#post891849

    Cheers!

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