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  1. #1

    2002 Polaris Genesis i - Winter Project

    I wanted to introduce my project and had a couple initial questions. This is my second PWC and my first Polaris. I picked this thing up for $800 including the '06 trailer. It looks to be in pretty good shape just mainly fading and dirty. The seller said it ran great all summer and then they took it out and it would not start. He said it starts if they put gas in by the airbox. He said they had the injectors tested and they are good. They also put a new battery in after trying to jump start it. It's a cheap wal-mart standard battery. I immediately knew from the sea-doo world that you should not jump start them. I have no idea of the timeline of events.

    Since I got it home, I have just been working on general cleanup. One thing I found was quite a bit of blue oil in the bilge (along with ice). I've thawed it in my garage and cleaned most of the oil but this tells me two things. I'm pretty sure they did nothing to winterize it and i am possibly dealing with an oil leak.

    I'm browsed through most of polarispwcknowlege site as well as many of K447's posts on here.

    I just have a few questions to get started...
    Is there anything I need to check for having been damaged by freezing water if it was not properly winterized?
    I see the oil line from the tank to the motor. Is this the only potential leak point other than the tank itself?
    It is full of gas and was just driven last summer. Should I dump stabilizer in or just drain it all? If I drain it, how?
    Is there a specific recommended oil? The tank is showing low right now, should I extract it and put in all known good oil?

    Things I know I'm going to do are...
    Replace the gray fuel lines
    Check compression
    Check fuel pressure

    Any other recommendations?

    Here is a pic (I already had the seats and frame/grab bar off)


  2. #2
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    So where in Wisconsin are you? The grey tempo lines were not used in the injected skis as far as I know. I would definitely check the fuel pressure. When you are checking the fuel pressure, pinch the return line to see if the pressure increases. If it does, you most likely have a regulator problem. I am sure keith will chime in shortly to guide you along some more. You would also want to check for voltage at the injectors themselves.

    As far as oil lines, there is the main one from the tank to the pump. Then there are either 3 or I think there could even be 4 oil lines that run from the pump to various points on the engine. Check all of those. The oil in the hull is 99% likely to just be a leak somewhere in the system.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    So where in Wisconsin are you? The grey tempo lines were not used in the injected skis as far as I know. I would definitely check the fuel pressure. When you are checking the fuel pressure, pinch the return line to see if the pressure increases. If it does, you most likely have a regulator problem. I am sure keith will chime in shortly to guide you along some more. You would also want to check for voltage at the injectors themselves.

    As far as oil lines, there is the main one from the tank to the pump. Then there are either 3 or I think there could even be 4 oil lines that run from the pump to various points on the engine. Check all of those. The oil in the hull is 99% likely to just be a leak somewhere in the system.
    Thanks! I live in Wisconsin Rapids (right in the middle of the state). I'll get some more pictures up that may help and plan on working on some of the easy to check off the list items. Interesting enough, it looks like someone tested the pump before as I see a small hole in the casing of the brown wire. I'll start following the oil lines looking for damaged or loose hoses but is there any way to push oil through without it running?

  4. #4
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    Tempo lines were used on the earlier injected skis. Typically dont need to replace them as there is no brass to react with.

    K477's links contain all you need for troubleshooting. Start with the easy stuff like battery and fuel pressure. Many times with the skis, there may be more than one issue. If your fuel pressure checks out, next check the voltage at the injectors.

    Let us know how you make out!

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Unlike the carbureted engines, the fresh water cooling system on the Ficht 2-stroke fuel injected engines is NOT entirely self-draining. Some water can remain trapped in the front water jacket (the electrical stator cover has a water jacket) and in the EMM itself.

    If the front of the hull is raised by at least ten degrees angle then the trapped cooling water is supposed to drain out. I usually raise the front much higher, just to be sure. If this was not done before the temperature dropped then there is risk of freeze damage to these items. As far as I know the rest of the Ficht engine is fairly self-draining.

    There are small oil lines from the oil pump to each of the three throttle bodies. These lines should be checked carefully. I typically trim about 1/2" from each end to expose fresh plastic hose and reuse the factory spring clamps.

    On the oil tank itself sometimes there is a ridge on the oil hose feed nipple from the molding process. This ridge prevents the top hose clamp from creating a perfect seal, so oil slowly drools down the outside of the large oil hose and accumulates in the hull.

    The cap for the oil level sensor can sometimes be a loose fit. When riding and bouncing around the oil sloshes up past the sensor cap. There are several ways to improve the cap tightness.

    The Genesis and Virage use a special LR Start/Stop module. It controls what happens when the Start button is pressed (which is also the Stop button). The original factory Start/Stop modules are known to fail. Polaris has an updated version. You can bypass this module for testing.

    Tip: Make sure you have the safety lanyard in place or the engine will NOT start. Without the lanyard it might crank, but no start.

    If you have spark but it will not start, prime the throttle body intakes with a small amount of fuel. It should start and run. If it starts with fuel priming, but will not start without fuel priming, check the injector voltage on White/Red wires while cranking. Must be over 20 volts for the injectors to actually deliver fuel.

    Tip: Must use fresh NGK PZFR6H spark plugs only. No substitutes.

    Check fuel pressure. Pressure should jump up to over 20 PSI as soon as the engine starts cranking. Same with spark, within a second or two of beginning to crank.

  6. #6
    Thanks so much for the information. I'm not quite ready to put the battery back in to do the tests and I need to get a fuel pressure gauge. I looked around at all the oil lines and I don't see any obvious damage to the lines and I don't see any spilled oil by the throttle bodies. I extracted more oil and water from the hull which I assume keeps accumulating as it thaws. The top of the oil tank also shows no evidence of oil leaking so I assume I'm probably dealing with the line from the tank.

    Some things I am noticing as I go through it more closely...

    It appears I have an updated BRP solenoid...


    It appears I do have the grey Tempo fuel lines, they are not protected per the service bulletin, one has a pretty good size groove in it and a couple connections appear as if they are coming off.

  7. #7
    I checked at Auto Zone today and they had a fuel pressure test kit as part of their tool loaner program!! So I'll hook up the battery tonight and try it out. The kit also includes a multimeter so I can test the injectors also. So do I disconnect one injector at a time or just disconnect all three?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    These are NOT like automotive fuel injectors. Do not disconnect any of them.

    Ficht injector diagnostics are completely different from automotive/car fuel injection. Do not rely on any diagnostics methods that are meant for 'normal' fuel injectors.

  9. #9
    Okay, I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge, jumped the brown wire to ground, heard the pump running and gas trickling back into the tank. Gauge showed 0. I then clamped the return line by the tank, ran the pump again and still got 0. I removed the gauge, pressed the center of the valve in and no gas. Then I did that while running the pump and got a trickle of gas to come out. Also, while the line was clamped, the pump was making more noise and sounded like it was struggling.

    I did then check the battery charge at it was 11.73 volts. Would a weak battery alone cause that? I'm going to put the battery on a charger overnight.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Battery polarity was correct?

    If yes, then it sounds like the fuel pump itself has issues.

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