01-30-2013, 11:54 AM #1
Guide for tuning and modifying 255/260 HP iControl skis - by Green Hulk
There has been lots of information learned about these newer iControl skis and I wanted to build a post compiling information and making it available here.
Please feel free to add to this as we all learn from your testing and sharing of information.
Lot's of the info here will be common knowledge for most of you, but there are many that stand to benefit from this. Hopefully this information helps people modify their skis correctly without trial and error and wasting money on unneeded parts.
The biggest hurdle to overcome with the stock iControl ski is the many different limiters in the stock ECU. The main ones are:
GPS Speed Limiter
RPM limiter (8040)
Contrary to popular belief, even the international models have a speed limiter.
Riva and R&D make speed control modules that will bypass the stock speed limiter. This will allow for a little more speed, but still leaves other limiters intact which will slow down your ski.
Riva SCOM and R&D boost box can be found on this page of the forums online store
You can add all the modifications in the world, but your ski will not go much faster until the ECU is reprogrammed, or swapped out for a stand alone ignition system such as the Riva Athena or MoTeC system.
So let's talk about the different ECU options
V-Tech has been an extremely popular option as it gives the ski owner the ability to reflash his own ECU without sending it off for service. This is done by purchasing a V-Tech Maptuner and a tuning credit for the ski you are tuning. The Maptuner is capable of tuning an endless amount of skis, you just need to purchase a tuning credit for each ski that you tune. In addition to Sea-Doo skis the Maptuner is also capable of programming Ski-Doo snowmobiles, Can-Am ATV's and Can-Am Spyders. Again, a tuning credit must be purchased for each vehicle that is tuned.
A nice thing about the Maptuner is once you purchase a tuning credit for your ski you can change mapping at any time at no extra cost to you. If modifications are upgraded on the ski simply upload a different map for your level of modifications. If you want to flash it back to stock then it can be done within minutes, all at no extra cost.
The V-Tech maptuner is a popular item among shops as it allows them to program their customers skis and other BRP vehicles and has become a great profit center for them.
For the same reasons, I see people buying a single Maptuner and using it to program all of their friends skis.
The Maptuner X and V-Tech products and services can be viewed here in the online store for more information which includes an instructional video showing how easy it is to use
Another option for ECU Reflashing is the R&D ECU reprogramming service. R&D offers many options which can be viewed here in the forums online store
With the R&D ECU Reflashing you will actually remove your ECU and ship it to R&D for programming. Turn around time generally runs one day and then the ECU is shipped back to you.
One very important fact regarding a reflashed ECU is there is not one tune that is absolutely perfect for every ski in every part of the world due to varying circumstances such as variances in modification levels, boost levels, water and air temperatures, elevations, etc. therefore some fine tuning may be required. It's important that on highly modified skis that air fuel ratio be measured. V-Tech makes this extremely easy for us with their Logger which also functions as an air fuel (AFR) gauge. It's a very simple device that plugs in easily with no custom wiring. Just connect it directly to the communications port on the ski and the other plug will go directly to the 02 sensor. You can view the logger and all the features here in the online store
Logs, from the V-Tech logger can be emailed to V-Tech where they will analyze them for you and write a custom map specifically for your ski in order for you to fine tune it. There is no extra cost for this service.
Another very popular option to enable one to fine tune their ski is the Dynojet CMD system with optional auto tune feature. This is a piggy back electronic fuel controller that enables the user to input the values he desires and have the Dynojet system automatically adjust the AFR to the desired settings. For more information, the Dynojet CMD system can be viewed here in the forums online store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...ndex&cPath=192
A tutorial with links and base maps for the Dynjet CMD can be found here in the FAQ section of the forum http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=190363
Okay so we've discussed the two types of reflashes and two different ways to fine tune the ski, one being the V-Tech logger and the other being the Dynojet CMD system. Both require the installation of an Oxygen (02) sensor. This will be installed into your exhaust manifold. Drilling and tapping the manifold is necessary. Instructions on how to do this can be found in the FAQ section of the forum by following this link http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...36#post2099236
One very important fact that we have learned is that the fuel pressure will vary from ski to ski. One ski may be at 50 psi and another 58 (where it should be) yet others are at 55 psi.
That being said, this makes it even more difficult for a reflash to be accurate. All reflashes are based off of an assumed 58 psi stock fuel pressure. For that reason it's important to install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator such as this Riva unit http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1306
The recommendation is to set it at 58 psi static pressure which means non rising rate function hooked up. This ensures your fuel pressure is set for exactly what your reflashed ECU is expecting it to be. There are some cases where you will want to hook it up as rising rate to ensure proper fueling for higher boost levels, but only logging with the V-Tech logger or using another AFR gauge will tell you for sure. If your AFR reading showed lean then you would increase the base pressure on the rising rate fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR)
If your AFR showed rich then you would lower the base pressure on your RRFPR.
Another very important fact that we have learned with this iControl skis is the stock 48 lb injectors are maxed out on duty cycle very quickly, usually around 15 psi and 8500 RPM.
For this reason it's highly recommended to use the V-Tech 1100cc injectors when using the V-Tech mapping. These injectors are specifically designed with a wide spray pattern for use with the multi valve Sea-Doo head. V-Tech has specific mapping for these injectors which is very accurate and developed after logging many different skis with the V-Tech logger.
V-Tech currently has two specific mapping for these injectors:
Stage 1: mapping supports up to 15 psi boost pressure at 58 psi static fuel pressure.
Stage 2: mapping supports up to 19 psi boost pressure at 58 psi static fuel pressure
The V-Tech injectors can be viewed here in the store for more information http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=2156
Stand Alone Ignition
There are two plug and play ignition units available for the iControl skis. Meaning, these after market ECU's will plug in directly to your OEM wire harness. Basically they are a plug and play replacement for your stock ECU.
The first unit is the MoTeC M130 ECU. For more information follow this link to the online store
The second unit is the Riva/Athena ECU. For more information follow this link to the online store
Both units are user programmable, meaning you can make tuning changes yourself.
Both units work with the OEM dash.
If you choose to run a reflash or stand alone ignition at over 8350 RPM's then it's important you upgrade the valve train.
It's recommended that you can run just a titanium retainer kit at up to 8500 RPM. If you choose to run higher than that then it's best to use a full valve train upgrade kit which includes springs and retainers. Many people run the spring/retainer kits as high as 9000 RPM, but the general recommendation is that if you choose to run 8800 or more RPM then to also install light weight valves. Options on valve train upgrade and also other engine modifications can be explored here in the store
The stock intake manifolds on these skis contain a flame arestor element that is very restrictive. Your ski will not operate at it's peak performance until this restriction is removed.
Riva makes an intake manifold upgrade kit that removes the element and comes with a billet plug that mounts to the front of the manifold which is drilled and tapped for 1/8 NPT fittings. This makes it super easy for you to install the RRFPR of which you will need and also a boost gauge or blow off valve should you choose to run one. The intake manifold upgrade can be viewed here in the store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=889
The stock air intake system on these skis is also very restrictive and there are big gains to be had by going with an after market air intake system. You can view the different air intake kits available for your particular ski by following this link to the online store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...dex&cPath=18_2
While the stock intercooler is perfectly suited for a stock ski, it's not adequate for a modified ski running higher than stock boost levels and higher RPM's. This is especially the case with the intercooler on the 2012 and newer skis in which Sea-Doo has reduced the size of the core by 30% over previous model years. Riva makes a Gen 3 intercooler that is a direct replacement for the OEM intercooler. It's an extremely good performing and high quality intercooler. More details can be viewed here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1849
Other intercooler options, including intercooler plumbing upgrade kits can be viewed here
One of the best and easiest ways to increase your skis power output is to upgrade the supercharger. I have always said, "the more boost you make the more fun you will have"
There are currently many options for upgrading your supercharger ranging from the Mini Rude, Riva XX and the offerings from Engine Tech (ET)
You can learn more about these different upgrades by following this link to the forums store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...ex&cPath=18_63
It's extremely vital that you maintain your supercharger. My recommendation is to rebuild them every 100 hours. Sea-Doo recently went to a 200 hour interval which I feel was a move based on the fact they may have been losing sales due to many people complaining about having to rebuild their superchargers every 100 hours. Sea-Doo made the change to 200 hours due to them using a newer upgraded clutch washer, however they did nothing to improve the bearings which is a problem area if superchargers are pushed much over 100 hours. If the bearings do fail then your supercharger is scrap and it will need to be replaced.
Although the washers that now come in the Sea-Doo supercharger rebuild kits are very good, my personal preference is the Riva metal clutch washers. I have seen them last longer and hold slip moment longer than any other clutch washer on the market. Speaking of slip moment, a tutorial on how to shim your supercharger for proper slip is here in the FAQ section
As a general rule of thumb you want your supercharger to have 1 ft lb of slip moment for every 1 psi boost pressure anticipated.
With that said, if your supercharger is said to make 16 psi boost pressure then you want to set the slip moment at 16 ft lbs.
The spring washers that come on the stock supercharger and the ones that are provided in the rebuild kit are quite weak, however for a stock supercharger they are just fine. If you modify your supercharger with an upgrade then it's best to use the after market spring washers shown here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1254
The front oil seal in the supercharger is prone to leaking in modified superchargers. For this reason I recommend upgrading with this after market viton seal
While getting more air into your engine enables it to make more power you have to be able to get the air out. There are quite a few options regarding the exhaust system of your ski.
There are rear exahausts, free flow exhausts and also complete exhaust systems that replace the stock water box with an afer market waterbox.
My personal preference is for the replacement waterbox/rear exhaust. Nothing sounds better in my opinion. It gives a nice throaty sound without being too obnoxiously loud.
I personally don't like the basic free flow exhaust as they tend to drone as the exhaust is still dumping into the pump tunnel area. The many exhaust options for your ski can be found on this page of the store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...dex&cPath=18_3
Increasing power output with all the HP in the world does absolutely nothing for your ski until you get the pump dialed in too.
It's important that the pitch of the impeller be matched to the power output of the engine and desired RPM range you intend to operate the engine.
For skis with Reflashes or stand alone ignitions I currently recommend either 15/19R impeller, or the 15/20R impeller. The 15/22R is just too steep for most skis and won't allow for higher RPM's
It's important that you use an SRZ impeller on these iControl skis as they are specially machined for the proper set back. Using an older style SRX impeller could cause the driveshaft to be moved forward which will open a gap at the carbon seal and cause the ski to take on water and sink. The SRZ impellers can be found here in the forums store
Please note, that if you have a 2012 S3 hull ski then it has an oversized nozzle. You will want to replace your stock nozzle with this one
It's important that when you change your impeller that you also install a new wear ring.
The OEM replacement wear ring can be found here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=518
Whle the after market stainless steel wear ring can be found here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=401
My personal preference is the stainless steel wear ring as it will last the life of your ski. The plastic wear rings degrade every time you ride your ski and need to be changed frequently.
The downfall to a stainless wear ring is the outer edge of your impeller can wear over time and it would be necessary to have it welded and re ground maybe every couple of seasons. This is a cheap process and available through Skat Trak or IMPROS. Use your down time in the winter to handle this task.
It's important that you fine tune your impeller for your particular ski, modifications and desired RPM level. There is no such thing as an out of the box impeller that's going to be 100% perfect for every ski everywhere. You will get the best results when dialing in your impeller. This is extremely easy to do yourself so don't let it intimidate you. Here's a easy to follow how to in our FAQ section that will show how this is done http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2614
It's equally important to dial the nozzle in on your ski. In the past we have done this with the Riva adjustable venturi nozzle where interchangeable rings can be swapped in. A larger ring woudl give more RPM than a smaller ring. Typically, an 81mm ring would give more top speed than an 85mm ring, but an 85mm ring would give better acceleration. So you need to play around with different sizes to achieve the results you are looking for.
I have been recently playing around with the billet adjustable anti-cavitation cones and have produced some excellent gains. These cones which are available from R&D through this forums online store have spacers that you can use the push the tail cone further back. This loads the venturi nozzle and produces more thrust. This also lowers engine RPM so the trick is to run a larger nozzle ring size than you normally would. For instance, if you achieved your best top speed with an 81mm nozzle ring with the stock venturi cone then you would want to step up to an 85mm nozzzle ring and install the R&D anti cavitation cone. You would play with the amount of spacers needed to achieve your desired RPM and may need to go up or down in nozzle ring size. It will take lots of testing and tuning on your part to acheive your goals, but the end results is worth it. I have seen nearly 2 mph gain on my FZR which uses a cone identical to the R&D billet anti cavitation cone while also going up in nozzle ring size.
You can view the R&D anti caviation cones and Riva adjustable venturi nozzles as well as other offerings here in the forums online store
In additon to a faster accelerating and a ski capable of much higher speeds than stock you may want to familiarize yourself with the different ways to improve handling and hook up in rough water. Have a look at the various sponsons, intake grates, ride plates and steering systems in this section of the online store
It's important that you maintain your ski. Change the oil at the manufacturers recommendation and also winterize if you live in cooler climates.
I recommend changing spark plugs before every season. This could save you some grief from fouled spark plugs once you start riding in spring.
Have a look at this kit in the store which contains the proper oil for your ski, oil filter, O rings and also spark plugs. Everything you need in one box
An information sheet on winterizing your ski can be found here in the FAQ section of the forum
This should cover all the basics on showing you how to build a better performing ski. There's plently more to learn here on the forum as there are many knowledgable members here with impressive builds for you to follow.
Please keep the greenhulk.net stores in mind for your PWC parts needs and remember that using the greenhulk coupon code in the performance store will save you 10% off the listed price of most Riva Products, R&D Racing Products and Solas impellers.
01-30-2013, 12:07 PM #2
Guide for tuning and modifying 255/260 HP iControl skis - by Green Hulk
Well done summarizing these skis, and very accurate information all in one thread!
01-30-2013, 12:28 PM #3
Great recap Jerry
Keep in mind that the CMD unit is quite effective at fine tuning the fueling on any ECU or reflash that is on the bike. This is done with a built in Autotune feature if you also purchase the Wideband2. The CMD unit by itself is not capable of beating the Sped Limiter or the Rev Limiter.
01-30-2013, 01:46 PM #4
Great information in one place. Can you please sticky this? Thank you very much.
01-30-2013, 02:35 PM #5
if anyone decides to go with a motec M130, just to save anyone a headache, you must make sure that that square cap is on the diagnostics connector. if you leave it off your ski will start but nothing else will work. you will have no throttle and your cluster will display " reading key" there is a resistor in the cam that motec needs in order for the can system to work peoperly, so dont lose that cap!
01-30-2013, 02:58 PM #6
Man I was just about to write all this up but Jerry beat me to the punch I'm so full of it, great job Jerry ............
01-30-2013, 03:39 PM #7
Thanks for the thread Jerry, great info all in one place.
01-30-2013, 03:39 PM #8
Excellent write up, Jerry!
This thread needs to be sticky!
01-30-2013, 10:31 PM #9
01-30-2013, 10:48 PM #10
Thanks Big Guy.
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