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  1. #1

    seadoo 1995 GTX Project

    Hey everyone, My name is Shelby and I have recently purchased my first set of skis, they are two 1995 GTX's. I got them and a double trailer for $700. They were a bank repossession. Here's the fun part, One of the Jet Ski's Crank up fine, and the other one doesn't. I was hoping some of you guys might be able to help me out with this problem. Me and my dad are working on it and have been for the last few days. Here's what the problem is:

    The ski wants to turn over when we hit the ignition, but something seems to be keeping it from making a full rotation. We we hit the power to crank the ski, the engine tries to turn over. (I can see this because the previous owners have taken off the plastic cover that goes over the PTO) The engine in turning maybe 1/4 of an inch. Then it will stop, as if it is hung on something and try again. It will keep moving in these quarter-inch increments not doing anything else. (AKA Cranking lol) Here is a list of all the things that we have tried:

    -Initially thought the starter was bad, so we installed the starter from Doo 1, which is good because it crank up Doo 1 no problem. When we installed, nothing changed; still turning only a fraction of an inch.

    -pulled the spark plugs out, grabbed the PTO and turned the engine over by hand. set a screw driver down in one of the spark plug hole to verify piston movement. we can complete several rotations by hand no problem. Therefor the engine should not be seized, right?

    -Tried cranking with the spark plugs removed, just to try and spin the drive shaft, same problem.

    -Checked and sanded lightly all of the power/ground connections. No corrosion on any of them, but sanded lightly to ensure a fresh connection.

    -Pulled the gray electrical box out and checked the solenoid, it seems to be fine. No corrosion on the terminals. We 'jumped' the relay by touching the shaft of a screwdriver to both terminals. It went through but the drive shaft still clicked over only 1/4 inch.

    So by my figuring, we've ruled out the starter, the solenoid, the connections, and the engine being locked up. Is there anything else that we could check that is simple? if not, what else could be causing the motor to hang like this? I fairly new to jet-ski wrenching, but my dad has been around marine-machines his entire life lol. Still with this one we are just about out of idea, so I'm turning to you guys for help. You seem to be 'gurus' of PWC, so any leads or information you have will be so greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance for the help!


  2. #2
    porschemaniac's Avatar
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    When you took the spark plugs out and turned it over by hand was it fairly easy, or did it offer a lot of resistance when turning? Depending on how easy it turned over, could you feel it trying to "catch" or bind as you turned it over?

  3. #3
    There was some definite resistance. I plan to pull the plug out of the one that runs tomorrow and turn it by hand as well, to sort of compare the two and get a better feel for how it 'should' feel. I want to say that it would feel sometimes as if it was getting harder to rotate, but the change was so mild it's kind of hard to tell. If it is trying to catch, what do you think it might be catching on?

  4. #4
    porschemaniac's Avatar
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    First thing I would do is rule out the pump. Many people have spent time trying to figure out why motor is hard to turn over when it's a pump bearing frozen- rock in pump ect. Pull the pump- very simple. Disconnect the reverse and steering cables at the pump- remove the 4 nuts that hold the pump to the transom and pull assembly rearward.

  5. #5
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    I didn't see anywhere where you replaced the battery.. They are very finicky about getting 12.5V. Other wise +1 the above suggestion.

  6. #6
    Thanks guys, I forgot to mention that the battery is dead, every time we've test-cranked it, we've been jumping from a turned off vehicle. This is just until I can get to town to get a fresh batt. Any suggestion on where to get a decent one?

    Also, we got the fuel pump housing off today, I have some questions I would really like to ask the previous owners lol. The wear ring looks like it is too big on Doo 2. We compared with Doo 1 and there is definitely something going on in there. We held a light under the intake grate for Doo 1 and it shined a nice thin beam of light all the way around. When we did this for Doo 2, the light was very spotty. There is almost full contact with the wear ring and the impeller all the way around the housing. Also, when we turn the engine over by hand you can hear the squeaking of the impeller rubbing up against the wear ring. I think we found the source of resistance lol. We plan to pull the entire pump tomorrow -which brings me to my next question:

    I've read a lot about having the pull the pump assembly as straight as possible, is there any merit to that? If so, does anyone have any tips for creating a simple rig to assist? Thanks so much for the tips, I really appreciate it.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by porschemaniac View Post
    First thing I would do is rule out the pump. Many people have spent time trying to figure out why motor is hard to turn over when it's a pump bearing frozen- rock in pump ect. Pull the pump- very simple. Disconnect the reverse and steering cables at the pump- remove the 4 nuts that hold the pump to the transom and pull assembly rearward.
    Pulling the pump on a '95 is NOT simple! (you must be thinking about the '96 and newer pumps, they are a piece of cake...) '95 and older pumps are glued to the transom, so they take a lot of work to remove. You will need a putty knife, a heat gun, and heat up the putty knife and slide it around the edges to break the silicone bond. Some guys even use a come-a-long against a tree to apply pull to get them off.

  8. #8
    BTW, another possible problem could be a bad battery or starter cable, either the positive or negative one, or the negative connection to the engine. It is very common for these to corrode inside the insulation without looking bad. The proper way to test for this is to measure voltage right at the starter terminal while cranking. You should have at least 10 volts while cranking.

  9. #9
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    You can get a battery anywhere...a 16CL-B or anything similar. I run something. Similar In a dry cell. As long as the CCA's are the same and fits the box your good to go.

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