Thread: 1990 SP Restoration
02-09-2013, 11:06 PM #1
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
1990 SP Restoration
Hi guys- new member here. I thought I'd post my 90 SP I've taken out of storage after 13 years of sitting. I'm going through the fuel system now, and replacing the cooling lines as well. Hopefully you guys can answer a few questions along the way. I have my old Clymer manual and downloaded the factory manual so I'm in good shape for the most part.
Here's a pic to get started:
Fresh out of storage- looks pretty good. Seat is faded though. Needs a need seat cover anyways due to some small tears at the back.
02-12-2013, 01:33 PM #2
Love it! there was a guy on here that did one a while back and dropped the big motor in there. I think that it was 580 or something of the like but he did it up really nice and it was a straight swap. pull all the stickers, get some hydroturf, get a good buff and polish on it and maybe even a vynal wrap the top in something suttle but bad ass. Welcome to GH!
02-13-2013, 02:52 PM #3
Nice older example. I've got a '92 SP that I'll be putting a ported 717 into before much longer.
02-15-2013, 12:58 PM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
I'm not planning to do an engine swap just yet. I got this ski when I was 17 years old.. Ran her for about 10 years and she's been sitting for the last 13 years in a storage unit.
Started with the trailer. Got a new tongue from shorelandr to replace the bent rusty tongue that came with the trailer years ago. Replaced the lights with leds and got a new Fulton F2 tongue jack. Upgraded the safety chains and switched to a 2" coupler so it's the same as our boat.
The fuel tank was all sludged up.. I took it to a local auto parts place to get it cleaned out. A gallon of xylene wouldn't touch that sludge. Both fuel lines in the pickup tube had dissolved and cracked. The fuel filters on the end of each line were down in the sludge. I have new filters and some Gates submersible fuel line on the way to replace them. Two of the plastic elbows that went through the rubber "cap" broke as well. I picked up a used pickup from Ebay to get the elbows I needed. In time I'll come up with some nice stainless steel barbed tubing to replace the plastic parts. The older fuel pickups are quite a bit different than the middle 90s stuff. I'll post some pictures in case others run into this in the future.
I do plan on new mats, probably a blue or black/blue seat cover. Maybe new blue decals to lose the yellow. I put on new Seadoo grips yesterday.. Had to cut the bars and drill a hole.. That was fun. Grips are rock solid though.
02-16-2013, 01:09 PM #5
02-17-2013, 07:44 PM #6
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
You like pictures huh? Well, I'll start with some pictures of the fuel system.
I didn't get any photos of the sludged up tank- but just imagine maple syrup that has been sitting out in the sun for a month. Thick, sticky, stinky, nasty stuff. I always ran the engine out of fuel by turning off the fuel selector and letting it die, so I was hoping the rest of the system was OK.
I took off the fuel selector, pickup cap and lines first. I was able to easily blow air though the selector and it worked as it should to select reserve or main, so I didn't take it apart. Look at the cap versus the later pictures and you can see how the plastic elbow tubes had broken off.
Here's the pickup cap without the elbows.
One of the elbows that pass through the cap. It's broken and has no barb on the end.
Assembled cap with elbows. The shorter one is the vent. Those plastic elbows are what I want to replace with barbed stainless tubing someday.
1995 SP pickup on left. 1990 SP pickup on right. The 95 has no elbows and no rubber seal. There are also no pickup lines hanging inside, they are two channels molded into the tube itself. I thought I could use the 95 pickup but it's too long. Cutting it would eliminate the filter at the bottom, without some careful modifications to re-fit the screen.
This is how the 90 SP is plumbed in the pickup tube. The hoses are different lengths, which gives you normal and reserve. The fittings on the ends are filters. These came from a used pickup I bought form Ebay.. the hoses are hard and wouldn't have lasted much longer. I'll be using Gates submersible 1/4 fuel line (Gates part #27086) to replace these pickup lines. It's the only fuel line I know of that is rated for such service. And yes, it costs about $14 a foot.
One of my old pickup lines. This is the "good" part from the top of the the tube. The bottom of the hose was a sticky rubber goo that just turned to mush when touched. You can see one of the broken elbows stuck in the line.
For the rest of the 1/4" fuel lines, I chose a product from Shields.
One of the things that bugged me about this ski is how difficult it was to fill up. The stock setup was single wall fill tube. You would have to run the gas pump just barely pumping for a good 5 minutes to fill it up. It took forever and killed your hand holding that gas pump just barely cracked open. I found a kit on OSD's website- P/N 295-500-017 that makes it a double tube vented setup.
It took some drilling and pop riveting, but I got it installed. You can see the inner tube with the corrugated hose, and the vents on the outside. The inner tube runs all the way to the tank opening. I assume this is what Seadoo used in later models and it should work fine, but as of now I have no idea how much this will help. Hopefully I be able to fill it at least at the slowest pump hold open setting.
Bonus- the Bombardier logo on the gas cap is parallel to the rail now when tight. It used to face at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock.
You can see where I put Silglide on the plastic to bring it back and didn't get down in the logo all the way yet. Still looks grey and dry. I'll use a toothbrooth or something to get it looking good again. Silglide did wonders on the hood seal and the seat seal.
I got the fuel tank back in the ski and replaced the nasty yellow hose (3/4" ID) from the front air/water separator box. I used some standard vinyl hose from Watts. It's not as flexible as the OES hose, but it sure looks a lot nicer. I also replaced the clear tube coming from the tank that relieves any vacuum in the tank. I used some 1/4" Excelthane (Ester based poly urethane tubing) tubing for that. I'll post pics of the fuel tank venting setup later.
I also replaced the old yellowed plastic thru-hull fittings with a stainless steel fitting.
The whole front water box setup is quite a bit of complexity to go through just to vent the fuel tank, but you don't want fuel vapors in the hull. Whatever it takes to ensure that is worth it.
Last edited by EricMorris; 02-17-2013 at 09:00 PM.
02-17-2013, 10:27 PM #7
Your doing a proper job with that ole Doo, and it's worth it! Subscribed
02-17-2013, 11:32 PM #8
this is going to be a great thread. keep up the good work! this is definitly a tribute to an old girl! subscribed...
03-04-2013, 04:33 PM #9
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
Some more on the fuel system:
The Gates submersible fuel line showed up. I assembled the pickup.
I picked up a carb adapter for a K&N flame arrestor. Base plate first.
Throttle and Choke cable bracket
Nut securing cable bracket from bottom
With filter installed
Switching gears, I also replaced the rubber boots on each end of the steering cable. Both were brittle and broke right off.
The boots are easy to replace, just remove the threaded heim joint at each end and slide it on. I lubed up the cable with some waterproof synthetic grease before I put the new boots on. I figure this won't keep water out, but it will keep out any fine grit that would tear up the cable.
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