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  1. #1
    ou812's Avatar
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    Innovate LC-1 and Dynotune gauge issue

    I just bought the square Dynotune afr gauge that is supposed to be compatible with the Innovate LC-1. My problem is when wired up per instructions I get a 1.3 reading in open air after 20 seconds, this is when using the yellow LC-1 wire. When I use the brown LC-1 wire I get 49.9 - 50 showing up.

    I have a G3 gauge which shows 18 when calibrated & an innovate DB gauge that show 21.9... According to the Dynotune instructions if I get a 50 showing up that means my o2 sensor is bad, but the other gauges say otherwise.. Anyone know whats going on?

    Here's the directions..
    http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...20WIDEBAND.pdf


  2. #2
    monaroman76's Avatar
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    If your innovate gauge is reading 21.9 when warmed up then it is reading correctly. Sounds like the programming on the new dynotune gauge is wrong. The gauge only functions to convert the voltage signal into a number, 0v is 7.2 and 5V is 21.9 which is what it should read when warmed up. I'd get in contact with dynotune, they do gauges for several different wideband controllers and it is possible they made a mistake. They were very helpful with me when I had similar issues.

  3. #3
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Did you rescale with the software?

    1) Connect your laptops program cable to the žOUTÓ connector on the
    LC-1, put the terminator plug into the žINÓ Connector.
    2) Launch the Innovate Configuration Software. A small box will pop up
    asking žmake sure the LC-1 is connectedÓ.
    3) Now turn the key to the žonÓ position so the LC-1 has power. The
    configuration software screen will automatically pop up on the screen.
    You are now ready to configure the LC-1.
    Set the parameters as follows:
    1) Verify that the fuel setting is gasoline and set at 14.7
    2) Click on the žanalog output 1Ó tab.
    3) Set analog output 1 as follows:
    a. Select the žair fuel ratioÓ button
    b. 1.000V= 10.00 a/f
    c. 2.000V= 20.00 a/f
    d. Select žadvancedÓ button
    e. Select the žInstantÓ sample rate.
    f. Enter 0.00V at warm up.
    g. Enter 5.00V at output error.
    h. Press žOKÓ
    i. Press the program Button. It takes one second to program,
    you will not get any message about programming completed
    but you will notice that the program button is now shaded.
    This confirms that you have programmed the LC-1.
    j. You are done! NOW REMOVE THE TERMINATOR
    PLUG FROM THE žINÓ CONNECTOR!

  4. #4
    monaroman76's Avatar
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    Beerdart, dynotune now do gauges that are calibrated to work with the standard lc1 program, just a direct replacement for the innovate gauge. You pay $10 more for the gauge to be configured for the lc1 controller. Most likely if it isn't reading correct it has been programmed for a different controller such as the AEM, etc.

  5. #5
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Also verify what LC-1 you have 6 or 7 wire. And verify that your firmware is up to date.

    3. LC-1 Cable connections:
    A. Interface and power cables with 6 stripped ends*:
    a. Red 12V supply
    b. Blue Heater Ground
    c. White System Ground
    d. Yellow Analog out 1
    e. Brown Analog out 2
    f. Black Calibration wire
    B. Serial In connection, 2.5mm stereo (female) marked as IN
    C. Serial Out connection, 2.5 mm stereo (female) marked as OUT.
    * 3.1 If you have an LC-1 with only 7 stripped ends the wiring is as follows:
    a. Red 12V supply
    b. Blue Heater Ground
    c. White System Ground
    d. Yellow Analog out 1
    e. Brown Analog out 2
    f. Green Analog Ground
    g. Black Calibration wire
    4. Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your car. A switched 12V source
    goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a
    minimum fuse size of 5A.
    5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source.
    Optimally, these (and any other MTS device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and
    connected to a single point. When this isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug,
    and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in
    unwanted signal “noise.” When possible, soldering is always better than crimping. Please
    see chapter 2.3 for more information on Electrical Grounding Concerns.
    6. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected
    to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers, ECUs, or gauges. If either one or
    both of these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default
    analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is
    a simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39
    AFR. Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should share the same
    grounding location of the analog input’s ground. Refer to chapter 2.2 for recommended
    wiring schematics.
    7. Optionally connect a momentary push-button switch between ground and the BLACK
    calibration wire. Please refer to section 2.1.
    Note: The use of the calibration wire is not necessary if the LC-1 is connected to Innovate
    Motorsports’ XD-16 digital gauge. If the wire is not are not being used, isolate and tape the
    wire out of the way.

  6. #6
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Ou812,

    I had the exact same problem due to ordering the wrong NARO band gauge, $69, (002). You need the $79, (030), wide band gauge! Either you ordered the wrong one or they sent you the wrong one.

    A phone call to them identified my problem right away!

    This is the correct gauge: http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=171

  7. #7
    ou812's Avatar
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    That is the one I got. 10.00 extra for watercraft version.
    Thanks for the advice guys, BD, I have the 6 wire lc1

    Quote Originally Posted by jpt7779 View Post
    Ou812,

    I had the exact same problem due to ordering the wrong NARO band gauge, $69, (002). You need the $79, (030), wide band gauge! Either you ordered the wrong one or they sent you the wrong one.

    A phone call to them identified my problem right away!

    This is the correct gauge: http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=171

  8. #8
    Fast & Loud meeper's Avatar
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    you guys should be using the new MTXL, cheaper in the long run and all in one unit plus its waterproof

  9. #9
    ou812's Avatar
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    I have one & just bought another one (MTXL).. This is a portable setup i'm putting together for other ski's when needed..

  10. #10
    monaroman76's Avatar
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    Certainly sounds like there was a mix up when they programmed the gauge. Have you been in touch with them?
    You could do as BD suggested, but unless you know what wideband controller the gauge is programmed for, it will be pointless.

    Quote Originally Posted by ou812 View Post
    That is the one I got. 10.00 extra for watercraft version.
    Thanks for the advice guys, BD, I have the 6 wire lc1

    Quote Originally Posted by jpt7779 View Post
    Ou812,

    I had the exact same problem due to ordering the wrong NARO band gauge, $69, (002). You need the $79, (030), wide band gauge! Either you ordered the wrong one or they sent you the wrong one.

    A phone call to them identified my problem right away!

    This is the correct gauge: http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=171

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