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  1. #1

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    Just bought an SL1050, have some questions!!

    Well I just bought a nice SL1050, it's my second polaris, I used to have an SL650 and knew that I wanted to go bigger. My first question is this: can I disconnect the oil pump and all the oil lines and run premix? The oil pump contraption looks a lot more complicated than the ones found on kawasakis. Second, I know on my old SL650, I hooked up a triple outlet fuel pump for the carbs, is this nessecary for the SL1050? The way it is now, 2 of the carbs have pumps, then the returns on these carbs go to the inlet on the third carb. However, there is no restriction pill in the fuel line coming off of the return of any three of the carbs, is this correct? The previous owner redid the fuel lines, so I am trying to figure out if he did it correctly. Thanks in advance for all of y'all's help.


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Also, I hooked up the ski to a battery temporarily, and the MFD didn't come on, I checked the elbow and the fuse is not blown, does it take a few minutes for the MFD to turn on, or is there something I need to press to turn it on?

  3. #3
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    The oil injection is very reliable on these skis, I would leave it in place. But to answer your question, yes you can switch to premix.

    The domestic motors do not need an upgraded fuel pump (there is none) and the restricter is built into the carbs. The oddrouting is a function of running a fuel pump on the MAG and PTO carb and then feeding both outputs to the center carb.

    If the fuse is not gone for the mfd, check for power at the connector behind the MFD. If there is power, the MFD is dead (Not uncommon).

  4. #4

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    Mar 2011
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    So do you think it's worth my time to remove the oil injection? The reason I ask is because there is oil everywhere in the hull, so I was thinking about just getting rid of it all together to prevent any more oil from leaking into the hull. Why does the oil pump hook up to the throttle cable?

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Make very sure you have the battery polarity correct. Even one reverse connection can cause damage to the electronics.

    Sometimes the MFD will not wake up on its own when power is first applied. Firmly press one of the buttons to get its attention.

    The Polaris OEM oil pumps are actually quite reliable. Just make sure the hoses and clamps are in good condition, and change the oil filter. If you change to pre-mix you will use about twice the oil compare to the variable rate oil system.

    The domestic motors use the dual fuel pumps integrated into the carbs, as you describe. That brass flow restrictor in the fuel return hose was only used in some blue Fuji engines, it does not apply to the red domestic engines.

    See my signature links for the common maintenance items and some things to look out for.

  6. #6

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    Mar 2011
    Location
    College Station TX
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    I also opened up the ebox to see if the stator upgrade had been completed, how can I tell using the number on the CDI?

  7. #7

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    Mar 2011
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    I used the link in your sig to search the part number on the CDI to see if the upgrade had been performed, the CDI part number is 4060170, any idea if this is the upgraded one?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gordo1287 View Post
    I used the link in your sig to search the part number on the CDI to see if the upgrade had been performed, the CDI part number is 4060170, any idea if this is the upgraded one?
    There are several ways to determine which version of the ignition system you have.

    Look up the part number on the Polaris Industries parts web site using Advanced Search. If you find it listed, then it is an original ignition CDI.

    Ohm check the stator wires. The original stators have some very different readings than the Upgrade Kit Gen III stators.

    The Update Kits typically have (if my memory is correct) an 8-pin connector in the cable between electrical box and stator. If you see that gray connector just outside the electrical box, it is probably an updated ignition.

  9. #9

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    Mar 2011
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    College Station TX
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    Well dang, the part number was listed, I guess I have the original un-updated kit then. Is this something that needs to be done ASAP? Or do I have a little bit of time if it is still working good for now?

    Also, what are some of the common mods for this ski?

  10. #10
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    The throttle is hooked to the oil pump to allow for a variable amount of oil to be mixed. Saves oil and reduces emmissions. The stator update does not have to be done right away, but is reccomended as breaking down in the middle of the lake sucks.

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