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Thread: sl750

  1. #1


    Hello guys, my name is luther im fron New Zealand, iv just joined the forum, im looking at buying a Polaris sl750 off trademe comes with a trailer rego and wofable for $2500 nz dollor.
    The thing is it has been stored away in his shed for 2 years with out winterizing it. Last saturday he put the battery on charge for the day and put fuel down the carbs and fired it up, it went well aparently, he only ran for 10 seconds without water going through it. Before storing it away he got the fuel system done on it and filters etc. On the monday i drove up the island to go have a look at the ski, he had it at the cow shed so he could put the water through it, he said this time it took him ages to get it started, and when he did it wanted to die all the time. so he keeped trying to crank it and it wouldnt start at all. We took the plugs out and see if they got spark, it had shit loads, he then put his thumb over the spark plug holes, it had heaps of compression lol, we are thinking it must have stale fuel, how difficult is it to pull the tank and carbs out of these things? im thinking of buy a makuni carburator kit for it and renewing all the fuel line and filters, even tho it had been before it was stored away, im also wanting to get a tripple output fuel pump for it. Where can i get all this stuff from, me being in New Zealand it very hard to get parts for them, theres heaps of parts on ebay so i was thinking maybe that. Im not sure wheather to pay this much for it now. It sounds like it may need abit of work done on them. All your comments would be much appreciated as i have got alot to learn with these things.

  2. #2
    urugol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Sydney, Australia
    A lot of guys here would spin out at that price, but we need to remember it is NZ. I don't know what's going on there, I had a look on trademe and there is only one MSX going for 11 grand! That's a tough price curve you guys have.

    So with this SL750, its good to see you have been doing some reading - definately get a tripple outlet fuel pump if not already installed. As far as fogging goes, it depends on the elements as well as sitting around is this on the South Island? The further South you go the more critical it will become due to the temperatures, kinda why it's called winterization. If you really want to buy this ski, there is a thread here with a checklist of what to do - use the search function. This is also a great starting thread for you:

    And this is also a great place to get information on your ski:

    You don't need to remove the tank, use a siphon hose to get the fuel out. Change all of the fuel lines and if oil injected check/replace the oil injection lines and remove the oil and put in fresh oil - do not use TCW3 for outboards try to find a Nulon product fully synthetic PWC. The guys in the USA harp on about Amsoil, Royal Purple etc but that stuff we just can't get and if you can find it costs a fortune. If it is running premix then you will need to premix oil probably go for a ratio of no greater than 40:1. Carbs will probably need to be rebuilt, it's not a bad idea to do it as part of routine maintenance. Using your thumb is not the correct way to check compression. Get a gauge and test properly its a good investment you will use it more than once! Cylinder comps should be around 120psi within 5% of each other.

    The fact that he is only able to start the engine by putting fuel down the plug holes tells me that the fuel system is not primed, which is not a problem or the fuel pump may need to be rebuilt. Check the jet pump assembly make sure it isn't too chopped up as that will be more $$ for you. There's a lot of help here for you, lots of cheap parts as well so don't be concerned about sourcing parts. I rarely if ever buy anything for my ski in Australia.

    Finally, do not believe anything the seller tells you, there could be some bull in that cow shed of his if you know what I mean.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    You can run the engine, starting from cold, for 20-30 seconds without damage. No need for water hose.

    You can damage the engine using a garden hose connection, if the sequence is not done correctly. The engine MUST be running, and stay running, BEFORE the water flow is turned on. And the water flow must be stopped BEFORE the engine is shut down.

    Turning the water flow on when the engine is not running can allow water to actually flood back into the engine cylinders, which is not good. The running engine's exhaust gases keeps the water spray inside the exhaust system flowing away from the engine.

    See my signature links for more useful info.

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