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  1. #1
    override's Avatar
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    Need advice with 97 WaveVenture 760 rebuild :)

    Last year I picked up this ski and after a little TLC I rode it for many hours until it was time to store for the winter. Summer is getting close again and I have procrastinated working on my jetski in fear of messing with the carbs. I know the carbs need a rebuild, I noticed last year that in trolling speeds the carbs tended to load up and from an idle to WOT there was hesitation and sometimes enough to kill the motor. Im finally getting around to getting parts for it and the carb thing is still scaring me away from doing what I want. I would like to squeeze a little more bottom end and top end out of the jetski but other than that performance wise it does fine for my girlfriend when we ride together.

    Last year I added a Pro-Tec ride plate and Aquavein intake grate, I would like to finish it off with the following:

    Solas X Prop 13/16
    Pro X pistons
    ADA (non girdled) head with 40cc 126psi domes
    R & D Flame Arrestor

    I have printed off the Mikuni SBN manual and the carb specs from the jetski service manual, this is what I have come up with so far. 135 (F) HS/ 137.5 (R) HS with 115 Pilot and 1.5 needle/seat stock I am unsure of the popoff spring size.

    I have read that it is not neccessary to rejet for the head but for the flame arrestors I have read to go down on pop off pressure and to open up the jets one size each. I don't have a digital tach and would be hard pressed to spend $186 for the PET2000. There are few to no shops in my area that will mess with anything but stock carbs. If anyone who has some experience with this similar setup on a 97 waveventure 760 I would greatly appreciate some advice. If the flame arrestors make things that much of a hassle to get the carbs back in tune then I'd just assume not put them on rather than take a chance of seizing the motor from a lean condition.

    Thanks to anyone willing to help a newb jet-skier out!


  2. #2
    override's Avatar
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    Alrighty well I have, for the time being, decided not to go with the flame arrestors and I will instead be using a Concord 11/14 impeller.

    Today I started taking the ski apart, figuring out where all the lines are routed to and what I need to do on getting the engine out. I ran out of time tonight but still managed to get the jet pump unit pulled out, man those 4 bolts were a b*tch to get out.

    So here are my findings:

    The intermediate housing doesn't look that wonderful and the shaft looks like it has gotten hot, unless thats just old grease. The coupler looks brand new so Im good there. Anyone who has looked at a few of these could give me some suggestions on what you see?





    The seal where the impeller shaft splines slide into looks pretty gunked up, I think it's just old sealer and grease. Will it hurt to cllean this area up with some sort of solvent?



    Impeller shaft looks pretty good, mainly looks like maybe it was powdercoated and the coating is just worn off.



    Last thing I can think of is on the jet pump unit, I don't believe these are filled with oil in the shaft area but when I sat the unit down for a minute and came back to it a liquid grease/oil substance started leaking out the splined shaft side. So is this part supposed to be packed with grease or filled with oil?





    Thanks for any help guys!

  3. #3
    showmepro1200's Avatar
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    My first thought is you are losing grease out the front (in hull) side of the midshaft assembly - seals are not doing their job anymore.

    If you had the motor shifted forward to get the midshaft by itself (separated at the couplers), then you could tell easily if you need to rebuild the midshaft by feeling the bearings rolling and the lateral play in the shaft itself. But seeing that seal situation I would bet it could use it.

    Sorry I'm not familiar with that type of shaft assembly, I'm of no help in that area.

  4. #4
    override's Avatar
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    I need to pick up a compression gauge before I pull the motor out or slide it forward so for the time being I will need to wait. I also still need to figure out how Im going to get the engine out without an A-Frame or engine jack. Went ahead and picked up a tiny tach, the new version supposedly has 1/2 second update times, whereas I have read they used to take roughly 2.5 seconds to update.

  5. #5
    override's Avatar
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    Checked the compression today...Got 140 on the rear and 150 on the front, so I guess I need to figure out how to yank the motor soon and see what the sleeves look like, might be needing to overbore one size. Anyone wanna give a good recommendation on a shop I can ship to for an overbore in the case I need it?

  6. #6
    showmepro1200's Avatar
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    Taking engine out usually isn't too tough - once you get all required parts/lines loose and marked for installation later, stand in the footwells and lift the motor straight up, and have a buddy there to slide a piece of plywood under it once you have it clear of the engine bay. Then you can get down and the two of you (if necessary) can lift it off and carry it over to the bench.

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  8. #7
    override's Avatar
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    Alrighty so I got ready to pull the engine tonight and it is wider than the engine bay opening. Im measuring 14" on the motor and 11.5" on the opening. Removed the carbs and carb manifold and got down to 12.25" wide. I can't get to the bolts on the back of the exhaust to pull the pipe and I don't see anything else I can remove. I tried several ways of getting the motor out, from straight up to angled to engine front first and engine rear first. The manual shows that you don't have to take anything off the engine besides the necessary cables and wires to get it out. I'm stumped on this one guys - Any advice?

  9. #8
    override's Avatar
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    According to a post on the SBT forums you are required to remove the intake and the exhaust, turn the motor on its side in the bay, remove the motor mount brackets and then pull the motor out. Apparently its A BIG PITA.....

  10. #9
    override's Avatar
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    I finally got the motor out, pulled it back some and tipped it over to the side and could get to all the bolts fairly easy.

    Sleeves look good to the naked eye, I'm gonna see if autozone has a cylinder bore gauge I can rent. Piston rings have seen some better days lol












  11. #10
    override's Avatar
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    Got the sleeves checked and honed today from a shop in austin for $40 and think I found me a go to guy for engine work!

    Pulled the jet pump housing apart from the wear ring, pulled the nozzle and reverse gate off and everything looks good. I was going to replace the bearings but there is zero play and it spins freely, the seal for the jet pump housing shaft area needs to the replaced. Going to attempt to press the shaft on the intermediate housing tomorrow, couldn't get it out tonight with a shop hammer and 2x4.

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