Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Cairns, Australia
    Posts
    5

    Genesis i fuel pump wiring issue - bypass EMM pin-40 with relay?

    Have got a 2004 injected Genesis. Has been running well for the 6 months I've owned it.

    Recently started playing up and missing till eventually would not start. Would crank but not start. Long story short, traced it back to a fuel pump issue. Fuel pump was intermittent due to corroded pin 40 ( fuel pump circuit ground ) on EMM 40 pin connector. Removed EMM and cleaned up all connections. It appears moisture has leaked internally only into pin 40 connector, corroding pin 40 completely off. Cannot repair broken off pin and do not want to get replacement EMM due to cost.

    Have manually grounded the brown wire from pin 40 and ski starts first go and runs perfect. This is not a solution though as the fuel pump is on constantly while pin 40 is grounded. So for example I start it, pull the lanyard, ski stops but fuel pump is still running - not suitable to use safely.

    Does anyone know a suitable pin/wire that I can run a new ground to that will stop fuel pump when engine not running/ or lanyard pulled?

    Alternatively could I ground fuel pump ground and get a suitable 12v feed that would work same way ie stop fuel pump when lanyard removed or engine off?
    Last edited by K447; 03-02-2013 at 09:21 AM.


  2. #2
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    16,708
    +1
    1,324
    Why not send the emm to DFI for repair?

  3. #3
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    920
    +1
    28
    The orange wire coming from the LR503 provides switched power, but Im not sure what the threshold is. It may be during cranking or it may be a higher rpm (running). If it did provide an output, you may need a relay to isolate it and provide the proper current sinking ability as the LR503 was not designed for that load.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Quote Originally Posted by ghostinstallations View Post
    The orange wire coming from the LR503 provides switched power, but Im not sure what the threshold is. It may be during cranking or it may be a higher rpm (running).

    If it did provide an output, you may need a relay to isolate it and provide the proper current sinking ability as the LR503 was not designed for that load.
    This a possible approach, if I was determined not to have the EMM properly repaired.

    Edit: to be clear, I would NOT be doing this on any of my own Watercraft. I would find some way to properly repair the EMM, or replace it. Even rigging a separate connection reroute for just the Brown wire doesn't sit well.

    The Orange wire feeds the relay coil, other coil terminal goes to ground.
    Relay NO contacts; one side to Brown wire, other side to ground.

    I would also consider having a fuel pump 'kill switch' somewhere so I could force the fuel pump off in case of a stuck relay or other problem. Switches create their own problems, finding a safe place to install it, and protecting it from corrosion, sparking, damage, etc. and not having the switch inadvertently tripped during riding, which would of course stop the engine.

    Since this is a watercraft, and this is the fuel system you are modifying, safety is the primary concern.

    All wiring and relay must be explosion proof. This is the level of electrical containment required for fully enclosed marine engine compartments, which is what a PWC is.

    Explosion proof means that every electrical connection is completely sealed so that sparks from a failing connection, broken wire or relay cannot ignite any fumes inside the hull.

    And of course the relay itself must be very reliable, as a stuck relay could cause the fuel pump to run continuously. Or cause the engine to stop running.

    The stock Ficht fuel pump power feed does have a fuse already, so a short inside the fuel pump would simply blow the fuse.

    Going from memory here; The Orange wire from the LR module should indeed provide 12 volt switched power while the engine is cranking. The selected relay should have a modest coil current draw and a 'pull in' voltage of 10 volts or less. It should also be rated for continuous activation, of course.

    The relay mounting must be strong enough to withstand rough water riding.
    Last edited by K447; 03-04-2013 at 08:30 AM. Reason: Increased safety emphasis

  5. #5
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    920
    +1
    28
    To add to what K447 said, I should have specified an Solid State (NOT a mechanical) relay. These will not ignite fumes.

    Once again, this all hinges on the LR503 producing a reliable output upon an average cranking speed. Even if this were to work, I anticipate longer crank times before it fires.

  6. #6
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    16,708
    +1
    1,324
    My suggestion is doign the safe thing and repairing the EMM. You may even be able to find a local electronics guy to make that repair for you at a reasonable cost.

  7. +1 by:


  8. #7
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Posts
    6,530
    +1
    1,281
    it's shouldn't be that tough to deal with a broken connector pin considering what a trip to the emm docs will cost.

    fix the emm. anything else will be a pain in the ass and be the kind of hack that gets you a free trip to the back gate at my place.

    some of the more infamous trips to the back gate:

    car battery wired into Kawasaki standup

    come along used as an engine rentention device on a tigershark with broken mount bolts

    rag with Velcro to slow down a fuel tank leak

    and the grand prize:

    A Yamaha 760 with a bypassed starter solenoid LAG bolted to the fuel tank as the owner couldn't deal with the electrical vault screws.

    Plenty of plumbers putty around the solenoid to reduce seeping fuel. Looked almost like a rigged C-4 charge.

    I NEVER closed a hood so fast in my life. ( well maybe..when the rattler slithered out of the air horn on my ford)

    Do you really want to join this list?

    I don't think running a bypass ( apologies Hudson) is that big of a deal here..adding a new relay certainly is.
    Last edited by K447; 03-04-2013 at 08:25 AM. Reason: Shouldn't

  9. #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Cairns, Australia
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    Why not send the emm to DFI for repair?
    I'm in Australia and not that keen to send it over to them and back hoping nothing gets damaged either way. Damn hard things to get a hold of over here if it gets damaged. I would certainly be going down this road otherwise though.

  10. #9

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Cairns, Australia
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    My suggestion is doign the safe thing and repairing the EMM. You may even be able to find a local electronics guy to make that repair for you at a reasonable cost.
    Have tried this and most are not that keen due to the work involved removing gel and trying to replace it with a suitable replacement gel style sealant. I have found someone that could/would do it, but wants a guaranteed to fit replacement 40 pin connector and still not sure what to replace removed gel with.

  11. #10

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Cairns, Australia
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by ghostinstallations View Post
    The orange wire coming from the LR503 provides switched power, but Im not sure what the threshold is. It may be during cranking or it may be a higher rpm (running). If it did provide an output, you may need a relay to isolate it and provide the proper current sinking ability as the LR503 was not designed for that load.
    Thanks for that, will check it out.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 99 Genesis FICHT fuel pump test run
    By elprup in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-02-2015, 08:02 PM
  2. inline electric fuel pump add on to older model skis with starting issues
    By jetkoiblue in forum Polaris Tech Tips and Info
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-06-2013, 11:49 PM
  3. 2002 Genesis i Fuel Pump Not Running
    By Chester in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-11-2013, 07:55 AM
  4. Help with fuel pump wiring harness repair
    By PTLanza in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-09-2012, 09:26 AM
  5. Fuel pump wiring
    By maineak1970 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-02-2010, 02:10 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •