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  1. #1

    2001 Yamaha 1200 XLT Engine Problems

    I rebuilt my engine a year ago because I flooded it with salt water. Installed a rebuilt crank, new rings, new plugs and rebuilt the carbs. My family took it on a trip and said that the engine temp alarm started going off after a few minutes of use. I'm guessing this started after the first tank of gas that had break in oil mixed in. The #3 piston is fried and cylinder is scored. I pulled the oil line off that carb and cranked the engine and got oil through the line.

    I plan on rebuilding that cylinder but am confused why it did not get enough lubrication even though oil is getting to that carb.

    Any ideas?

    Do I need to tear the whole engine apart to clean the crankshaft and case? There are no visible pieces from the rings although I get a grey metallic substance on my finger when I swiped the crank case with my finger.


  2. #2
    800AMSOIL4U's Avatar
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    Are you sure the catalytic converter did not come apart ?

  3. #3
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    Yes it would be better to do a total tear down and check and double check everything just in case you missed something the first time. Do a pressure test on the engine. if you didnt use new crank seals replace them this time.
    Every thing could have been getting enough oil from the beginning. if you had an air leak somewhere it could have leaned out and killed that cylinder. too much air to fuel ratio in a 2 stroke will melt pistons.
    Also you could have damaged a reed when you flooded it which can cause a lean condition and melt a piston.
    Some people rebuild without splitting the cases but i don't like taking short cuts and go ahead and break it down and put it in the parts washer and clean it.

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  5. #5
    Those oil lines have a spring loaded ball check valve between the oil pump and the carbs. Those spring loaded ball check valves serve two purposes. They prevent the oil from draining back into the pump AND the equalize oil distribution between cylinders.

    So if one spring loaded ball check valve has a week spring or otherwise doesn't function properly then you'll get one cylinder that doesn't get enough oil and the other cylinders get way too much.

    You can test the check valves using a hand held vacuum tester. They should all "pop-off" at about the same pressure.

  6. #6
    I had already pulled the head and bad cylinder before finding out about pressure testing. I reassembled the engine and pressure tested it. There is a leak at the rear seal where it meets the crankshaft. Is this my smoking gun or could that leak have been caused by the engine running hot for another reason?

    when replacing the seal this time should I order it direct from Yamaha instead of SBT like last time?

  7. #7

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    If you can afford oem parts, them in my opinion, I think you should get them. There are many different websites that sell oem parts. However, I used some after market wsm gaskets for my rebuild and have not had an issue with them. When I replaced the mid shaft bearing with a wsm, it had little or no grease in it, and it was my fault for not checking it-needless to say that's due for replacement again. If you have a shop manual, and take your time pulling things apart, cleaning reusable parts thoroughly, and putting everything back together, you'll have a great running jet ski. Not to mention the fact that you will have gained some great basic knowledge on two strokes. good luck michael

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kylelbc View Post
    I had already pulled the head and bad cylinder before finding out about pressure testing. I reassembled the engine and pressure tested it. There is a leak at the rear seal where it meets the crankshaft. Is this my smoking gun or could that leak have been caused by the engine running hot for another reason?

    when replacing the seal this time should I order it direct from Yamaha instead of SBT like last time?
    If the rear cylinder is the one that failed, then yes the seal is the most likely culprit.

  9. #9

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    I would buy the Yamaha OEM seals, I have recently rebuilt 2 SBT engines that had low hours on them, one was an actual SBT engine that lost #2 due to a wrist pin clip coming out, and the other was a "who knows" rebuilt engine with SBT seals and parts. For the record, one engine was sleeved and now runs over 60 gps in an XLL with SBT pistons, and both had leaking rear seals. Not the cause of the early demise, but leaking all the same.
    Quote Originally Posted by kylelbc View Post
    I had already pulled the head and bad cylinder before finding out about pressure testing. I reassembled the engine and pressure tested it. There is a leak at the rear seal where it meets the crankshaft. Is this my smoking gun or could that leak have been caused by the engine running hot for another reason?

    when replacing the seal this time should I order it direct from Yamaha instead of SBT like last time?

  10. #10
    Okay so I think my plan of attack is to tear the engine down to thoroughly clean the bottom end. Rebuild it with a replacement cylinder, piston, rings, etc. and new OEM seals.

    Any recommendations on where to buy the cylinder and piston? Would buying a good used cylinder be okay or not?

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