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  1. #1

    2000 Seadoo GTX Di

    This is my first post so please excuse me. This is my situation. A friend of my family had the listed seadoo as it came with a house that they bought. They road it for a few summers no problems. The last time that they had it out on the water it stopped working after a "horrible sound." They took the ski into the dealership and have it checked out. They were told that it was seized up and that it would cost around $3,000 to repair. They told them to stop, that they were not going to put that kind of money into it. The dealer put the engine in pieces into a box and told them to come and get it.

    My friends gave me the seadoo as a project because they had no interest in getting it fixed. From looking at all of the parts of the motor that were in the box, the only thing that I can see is wrong is that one cylinder is marked up a little and the piston looks like the rings broke which in turn scored the cylinder wall.

    I am thinking about trying to get this machine put back together by doing a top end rebuild. I know that I will have to get all new gaskets because this thing is completly taken apart. I have a shop manual for the machine. What are some other tips/things that I should be looking for before I start trying to rebuild this mess. By looking at the engine parts, the cylinder "jug" and the piston are the only things that I can see is the problem. The bottom end has be seperated and there are no "parts" floating around in here. The crank and counter balance look great. The rods look true and spin freely with no play.

    Or should I just part this thing out and run!

    Thanks for the help and support


  2. #2

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    2 day job by a person that has the experience, knowledge, parts and tools. Parts are not going for a lot of money these days as there are more people parting them out than fixing them. The dis are much more complex than any carberated seadoo ever made, so it will help you greatly to have someone that can give you a hand if you need it that has experience w/ dis. Free help is rarely good to have when working on a di.

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  4. #3
    Myself's Avatar
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    I fixed one just like that a few months ago. The powervalve had gummed up so bad it wasn't getting lubed properly. That, in turn, caused it to wear down into the aluminum cylinder just enough to contact the rings and tear stuff up. I honed the cylinder, threw in a used piston/rings, new power valve, some new gaskets, and it ran out great. Customers total bill was about $580.

  5. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    I fixed one just like that a few months ago. The powervalve had gummed up so bad it wasn't getting lubed properly. That, in turn, caused it to wear down into the aluminum cylinder just enough to contact the rings and tear stuff up. I honed the cylinder, threw in a used piston/rings, new power valve, some new gaskets, and it ran out great. Customers total bill was about $580.
    Is there anything else that I should check before putting it back together.

  6. #5
    Myself's Avatar
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    Just make sure the powervalves are in good shape, and everything cleaned up real good.

  7. #6
    Seakid's Avatar
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    My brother in law used to had and I'm telling you it's complied but with time and doing some homework also have extra cash you will have her on the lake before you know. If I'm not mistaken on any di or rfi always be sure to carry extra spark plugs with you while on the water because they tend to hard on spark plugs and cause to wear out faster than any other model.
    Last edited by Seakid; 03-19-2013 at 09:01 PM. Reason: Correct spelling

  8. #7
    If i knew,...I wouldn't ask sea-one's Avatar
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    First remember that you need to figure out what went wrong to cause the problem......

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by sea-one View Post
    First remember that you need to figure out what went wrong to cause the problem......
    From what I can see, the crank and the counter balance bearings are just fine. The front piston rings are wrong and must have slipped cause most of the damage. I the oil pump seems to work just fine as does the fuel rail. I am leaning towards the facts the engine just needed to be rebuilt due to hours. Around 200. the RAVE valves had a lot of carbon on them.

  10. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    a well cared for DI ( well cared for means using the really good injector oil) should go at least 200-300 hours before a fault. Lots of carbon on the raves in a bit of a worry, sinc lower quality oil does cause that..or not getting any regular service at all ( raves supposed to be cleaned every 50 hours or so)

    However, building a DI motor is not something I'd suggest for a somebody just starting out.

    you can get some really good money for 951 lower end that are not trashed by a broken rod..they are few and far between these days

    Is the ski a cherry as far as cosmetics?

    Of course if you manage to get it together and it runs..you can get more money for it that way with less hassel..but don't expect to be successful with just a shop manual..those engines are pretty tricky compared to other Seadoo 2 strokes, I go with SBT rebuilds when somebody is insane enough to put that kind of money into it when a running 4-tec can be had for just a few bucks more.(like $3500) A rebuilt motor is 2k..does come with a warranty however....

    a top end kit from SBT is going to run $500 with a rebuildable cylinder for exchange, + shipping..and that's assuming the crank is perfect, without any metal debris getting in the from being torn down and laying around for a while. If the bottom end wasn't wrapped in a large trash bag..I'd be nervous.

    too risky..you'd be better off putting $500 on red on a roulette wheel imho and that's better odds then getting that engine working given it's been tiorn down for a bit.

  11. #10
    Seakid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    a well cared for DI ( well cared for means using the really good injector oil) should go at least 200-300 hours before a fault. Lots of carbon on the raves in a bit of a worry, sinc lower quality oil does cause that..or not getting any regular service at all ( raves supposed to be cleaned every 50 hours or so)

    However, building a DI motor is not something I'd suggest for a somebody just starting out.

    you can get some really good money for 951 lower end that are not trashed by a broken rod..they are few and far between these days

    Is the ski a cherry as far as cosmetics?

    Of course if you manage to get it together and it runs..you can get more money for it that way with less hassel..but don't expect to be successful with just a shop manual..those engines are pretty tricky compared to other Seadoo 2 strokes, I go with SBT rebuilds when somebody is insane enough to put that kind of money into it when a running 4-tec can be had for just a few bucks more.(like $3500) A rebuilt motor is 2k..does come with a warranty however....

    a top end kit from SBT is going to run $500 with a rebuildable cylinder for exchange, + shipping..and that's assuming the crank is perfect, without any metal debris getting in the from being torn down and laying around for a while. If the bottom end wasn't wrapped in a large trash bag..I'd be nervous.

    too risky..you'd be better off putting $500 on red on a roulette wheel imho and that's better odds then getting that engine working given it's been tiorn down for a bit.
    it

    Yes I forget all about use higher quality oil on di or rfi. I would go with sbt than doing rebuild. Once you order brand new from sbt and you can send the core to get some money back and there benefit when buy from sbt is come with warranty.

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