Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21
  1. #1

    New drive shaft in 2005 RXP too long? Need help asap.

    When setting engine alignment should the drive shaft have pressure pushing forward on the crankshaft. The only way I can relieve the preload is to slide the engine its full travel forward and with it that far up it losses preload on the carbon ring. I put this drive shaft in last summer. Its a WSM aftermarket part. I think it may be longer than the original. I also found two broken engine mounts today (right rear and front). They were all new when the shaft was installed. I think if I leave this pressure between the jet pump and crankshaft it will wipe out my pump bearing as well as my crankshaft thrust bearing.
    I could not find any specs to set the drive shaft clearance (freeplay). I could simply remove the rubber damper for more space or grind 1/16" off the rear of the shaft (or both)
    Any advise would be much appreciated.


  2. #2
    shrabber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    5,305
    +1
    376
    Lets gets some info here alignment tool mounts in loose

  3. #3
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    25,930
    +1
    1,407
    Has the cage fallen off inside PTO coupler?

  4. #4
    No there is no blockage inside the pto coupler. Yes alignment tool was used to align the engine. This problem was found after removing the tool and installing the jet pump. It wouldn't go in the last 1/2". I tightened the pump bolts to draw it in gently and found that I was pushing the engine forward and stressing the mounts.
    At that time I loosed all 9 engine mount bolts and the engine slid forward eliminating all the preload the drive shaft has presented. All would be ok leaving the engine all the way forward but the carbon ring is now .020" away from the support ring. So the bottom line is the drive shaft must be too long. This also explain's the fast engine mount failure since the shaft was first installed about 4 hours of run time ago. I am guessing the drive shaft should have zero end play but no pressure.

  5. #5
    I see someone else found an issue with an aftermarket shaft. Seems the C clip position was wrong for his. Not the same issue as me but it does point fingers to manufacture quality control.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...rive+shaft+sbt

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Posts
    6,530
    +1
    1,281
    let me mention that driveshafts are an issue as there is a bastard child among them.


    I thought it was a 2003 model but it.s worth mention in the event the pump/shaft on that ski isn.t original. The first pumps had a longer shaft, so to replace the pump, the shaft had to be replaced as well. Might have been shorter, but there are 2 different length shafts. All I know is that without the help of [email protected], I would have been badly screwed. The early pumps are discontinued

    i.d see if there is a readable part number on the pump, then check the shaft for it.the wsm book has detailed measurements on the driveshafts vs. Oem part number

    good luck on that, i.ll be back

    this is the kind of thing that can really ruin your day

  7. #7
    Btw what is the cage you are referring to? There is nothing in there but I dont recall any cage either.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    let me mention that driveshafts are an issue as there is a bastard child among them.


    I thought it was a 2003 model but it.s worth mention in the event the pump/shaft on that ski isn.t original. The first pumps had a longer shaft, so to replace the pump, the shaft had to be replaced as well. Might have been shorter, but there are 2 different length shafts. All I know is that without the help of [email protected], I would have been badly screwed. The early pumps are discontinued

    i.d see if there is a readable part number on the pump, then check the shaft for it.the wsm book has detailed measurements on the driveshafts vs. Oem part number

    good luck on that, i.ll be back

    this is the kind of thing that can really ruin your day



    worthwhile to look
    I am assuming you ran in to this with GTX? Seadoo used plasyic pumps on nearly all 03 GTX models and right at the end of 2003 production they introduced the aluminum housing which was carried in to 2004.
    In my situation the 2005 RXP pumps are all the same.

  9. #9
    Where are you Shrabber? I updated the info you asked for.

  10. #10
    I am going to head up to bed. I will tackle the issue again tomorrow morning. Has anyone ever removed material from the pump side of a drive shaft before? I think I can get away with 1/4" without touching splines. Or is it better to just leave out the rubber dampers. I would assume the front one is more important than the rear but can both be removed? If I can wake up to some answers that would be sweet. Thanks guys.

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. FS New Drive shaft tool, carbon ring and "C" clip
    By RXP-TOM in forum Sea Doo Classifieds
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10-12-2010, 09:39 PM
  2. Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-10-2010, 07:37 PM
  3. x charger in 2005 rxp 215
    By Bama in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 06-22-2010, 12:00 PM
  4. RXT drive shaft in GTX
    By Trimer in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 04-30-2007, 08:58 PM
  5. RXT Drive Shaft in GTX
    By Trimer in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-14-2006, 08:29 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •