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  1. #1

    1995 SL750 won't pull on full throttle

    Hey guys, i took my 95 sl750 out on the water yesterday, iv rebuilt all three carbs with the mikuni carb kit up graded to the the mikuni 3 output fuel pump and gone with the 40:1 premix and took the shaft out of the oil injection,renewed all the hoses and but the restricter back in the return hose, is there a certain way these go in? Im also having trouble of it bogging just before i get up on plane, u got to pull back on throttle and then gun it to get it going properly, it also wont let me do full throttle as it like theres a limiter on it, but im sure these skis dont have limp mode or anything like that. So anyways i kept driving as is, i stil had alot of fun on it, and stil went well cruising. so today iv decided to start it and run it for a little on the trailer to warm it up, pulled the spark plugs out they were wet but sure was runing fine, got the compression tester, open it up to full throttle, pto dry 110, put a little 2 stroke oil down it and it made no difference. centre 132, mag also 132, so would this effect all the bogging and me not getting full throttle out of her. it starts and idles in the water great, just that bogging is a pain in the arse and not be able to open her ride up. All your feed back and suggestion would be very much appreciated..


  2. #2
    caliburn's Avatar
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    I will let the carb guys pitch in on this, but 110 over 132 is well over 10% differance, if the compression dropped since your carb rebuild, sounds like your leaning out on that cylinder, I would pull that jug for inspection and replacement of it and piston to bring compression back up, good rule of thumb, if a ski does not run right stop, take it in and check it out, you should never run a ski if its not running right, Make sure all your fuel line hose clamps are tight even the pulse line that runs from pump to lower case, may even need to rebuild the fuel pump if you bought it used as they tend to sit on a shelf for awhile.

  3. #3
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    The PTO needs to be checked as soon as you got a chance.
    Still, at 110-132-132 it shouldn't stop the ski from getting good top RPM.
    Having to pull choke to get it running leads me to think you're not getting enough fuel.
    Check these in the carbs:
    Hi/Low screw settings
    Pop off pressure <-- quite a few ppl don't check this and have problem after carb rebuild.

  4. #4
    la90043's Avatar
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    I would open each high screw 1/16 to 2/16 more. your description symtoms is a high speed screw setting adjustment. needs a tad more fuel.


    Im also having trouble of it bogging just before i get up on plane, u got to pull back on throttle and then gun it to get it going properly, it also wont let me do full throttle as it like theres a limiter on it

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by caliburn View Post
    I will let the carb guys pitch in on this, but 110 over 132 is well over 10% differance, if the compression dropped since your carb rebuild, sounds like your leaning out on that cylinder, I would pull that jug for inspection and replacement of it and piston to bring compression back up, good rule of thumb, if a ski does not run right stop, take it in and check it out, you should never run a ski if its not running right, Make sure all your fuel line hose clamps are tight even the pulse line that runs from pump to lower case, may even need to rebuild the fuel pump if you bought it used as they tend to sit on a shelf for awhile.

    Hey iv gone over all the fuel lines and pulse line, everything cheakes out great, i brought my fuel pump a month a go from watcon brand new, i dont think its faulty. im going to look at getting another standardpiston and rings for it cheers

  6. #6
    hey all my lows are set at 1/2 turn out highs pto is 7/8 centre is 5/8 and mag is 1 1/8 thats what they were set at before rebuild, pop off pressure im not quite sure what you mean by that, sorry im stil learning all this. cheers

  7. #7
    hey my highs are slightly opened abit morethan factory as im running a differnt flame arrester from the factory ones.
    Quote Originally Posted by la90043 View Post
    I would open each high screw 1/16 to 2/16 more. your description symtoms is a high speed screw setting adjustment. needs a tad more fuel.


    Im also having trouble of it bogging just before i get up on plane, u got to pull back on throttle and then gun it to get it going properly, it also wont let me do full throttle as it like theres a limiter on it

  8. #8
    john zigler's Avatar
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    you still have a fuel starvation issue / lean bog for what ever reason.

    could be crank seals, leacking intake, base, or carb gaskets, carbs still dirty/passages blocked,etc.

    also with aftermarket flame arrestors, you need more fuel, and need to adjust carbs to richen.

    I have new pistons, and rings, and all needed gaskets in stock, if you need.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by luther.douglas View Post
    hey my highs are slightly opened abit morethan factory as im running a differnt flame arrester from the factory ones.
    Quote Originally Posted by la90043 View Post
    I would open each high screw 1/16 to 2/16 more. your description symtoms is a high speed screw setting adjustment. needs a tad more fuel.


    Im also having trouble of it bogging just before i get up on plane, u got to pull back on throttle and then gun it to get it going properly, it also wont let me do full throttle as it like theres a limiter on it
    Most people open up the highs 1/2 turn when going with aftermarket flame arrestors.

  10. #10
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    Just curious if you have all 3 cylinders running at idle?

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