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  1. #1

    Crack on 150 cylinder..What to do????

    Hey guys I just got my cylinders back from replating and I was putting the the studs back in and I guess I must of got a little excited because I over torqued 2 of the studs and put hair line cracks around them IS there anything that I can do about the or will this effect the motor at all? I really can't afford to replace the cylinders as I just spent over $500 on them. Any input is appreciated! thanks
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  2. #2
    any suggestions guys?

  3. #3
    Call who refurbed them for you and ask them. I would not run them

  4. #4
    Let me out of here......I need to go on Greenhulk!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kansas Kid33 View Post
    Hey guys I just got my cylinders back from replating and I was putting the the studs back in and I guess I must of got a little excited because I over torqued 2 of the studs and put hair line cracks around them IS there anything that I can do about the or will this effect the motor at all? I really can't afford to replace the cylinders as I just spent over $500 on them. Any input is appreciated! thanks
    I would take it to a reputable welding shop and see if it can be fixed. Can you see how far down the crack runs? With a crack in that area it looks like water could run thru the crack and up the stud and out the head where the nut sits. Always a good idea to run a tap thru each hole before threading the studs back in to make that process a little smoother. Best of luck with that......

  5. #5
    The crack runs down about 1 or 2 cm. What kind of welding shop would be able to weld something that small? The only welders I know in my area are oilfield welders

  6. #6
    steve45's Avatar
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    While welding sounds like a good idea, I'd be afraid that it would warp or crack again.

    One thing that I've found works well on aluminum (and I've even glued a cracked piston and run it for hours in a high speed engine) is Devcon aluminum epoxy. This is an industrial epoxy, not the hardware store stuff.

    http://www.devcon.com/products/produ...utty%20%28F%29

    The surface has to be absolutely clean before application. Wash it with lacquer thinner or similar solvent.

    I might be tempted to remove the stud, put epoxy in the crack and hole, then thread the stud in and not tighten it so tight. Even then, I'd keep a very close eye on compression to make sure it doesn't blow the head gasket or something.

  7. #7
    Self Confessed Day Dreamer toomanytoys's Avatar
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    Once that gets heat into it you are asking for more trouble.

    With the time and money it costs to get the ski going again I really wouldn't use it. I personally wouldn't repair it either.

    I hate to say it, and I know how you feel as I sleeved and run a non-coated cylinder and I probably shouldn't have, but you probably need to buy another one.

    Cheers, Mal.

  8. #8
    steve45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toomanytoys View Post
    Once that gets heat into it you are asking for more trouble.

    Cheers, Mal.
    It won't get hot enough at that location to hurt the epoxy, at least the epoxy I specified.

  9. #9
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kansas Kid33 View Post
    The crack runs down about 1 or 2 cm. What kind of welding shop would be able to weld something that small? The only welders I know in my area are oilfield welders
    If the welder follows CORRECT prep repair procedures , it will weld up 100% , dont waste your time using glues or epoxies , while they may work they are only a cheap dodgy way to attempt a correct permanent repair.

    Waz
    Last edited by sirbreaksalot; 03-31-2013 at 06:23 PM.

  10. #10
    I would think you could bring into a reputable welding shop have the crack filled, drilled and tapped, I would imagine that the crack runs deeper than you see. Good luck!

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