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  1. #1

    Burning Plugs??!!

    Hello All!

    Well I am new to the watercraft forums but been around on the diesel forums forever,

    Little Background on the Ski

    2007 kawasaki ultra LX

    I just bought it off my friend who is a pro surfer in southern CA, He bought it brand new to do surf tow ins.. And right after that they outlawed them in the ocean.. (his loss my gain). It was only used once, about 4 years ago when we took it to the lake for a week and put 20 hours on it.. that was the last time it was used, and I think I put half the hours on it... Anyways I made a offer and he took it.. It was sitting outside with very little fuel, covered, and still in great shape when I popped the cover last week.....

    SO... I added sea foam, and topped it off with Non Ethenal fuel through it in the river and was only getting 6400 rpms out of it, I thought everything was Shibby till my dad bought a honda 1200 a couple days ago and it smoked the boat, so immediately I threw new plugs in her and boom 7600 rpms and screaming... I took it up river about 10 miles running great the whole time and poot poot poot dead, barely idling and only 3000 rpms. got my bro to pick me up and took it home, the plugs were black and my conclusion was the Air Fuel mixture was off and it burnt the plugs after 10 miles of riding,

    So I popped the sensor off (pressure sensor?) under the fuel rail... And Of Course Broke It!

    ordered a new one today, dang $150. and new plugs...

    so my question is....

    Is this even the correct sensor I should be dealing with??? Is there anything else I should be looking at? Or is it safe to say this should solve my dilemma

    Thanks For The Help In Advance


  2. #2
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
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    I'd run a double dose of fuel Injector cleaner thru it with premium fuel.

    When its had old fuel in the system it fouls plugs a lot.

  3. #3
    Awesome, thanks for the reply, would the dark plug tips still be from bad fuel, or did I most likely just bust that sensor for no reason?

  4. #4
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    You need to drain the tank of all old fuel. the injectors if not dicked up now from running old fuel through them should have injector cleaner run through them otherwise send them out to get cleaned. One bad injector will ruin your whole day. You need to upgrade the jet pump to the 2011+ specs before the ski I's ever run again. This Only cost a few hundred $ but can save you thousands. I'd also pull the fuel sender assy check the fuel pick up sock for crap stuck in it. Put new plugs in it and fresh oil. And filter.

    P.s what kind of diesel you have ?

  5. #5
    Ok, what is the jet pump, and where do I find one, ill pull the sock off tomorrow, forgot to mention oil and filter was done first thing, I'm a bone head I guess, the tank looked dry, we ran it pretty low when it was put up....

    I started with a power stroke, sold my duramax about 6 months ago and switched to the Dark Side, now I'm rockin 2010 dodge mega cab... No complaints on the Dmax I had to built to the max, but damn the dodge is a beast

  6. #6
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    The jet pump is in the back of the ski replace the shaft bearing and seals with that from a 2011+ set up. All the parts can be found in the online store here. There is even a how to in the how to section here.

    Man I'd never trade my built LMM for a dodge lol. But with efi live now being able to tune them maybe.....

    Here you go

    Any Kawasaki 2007-2010 big hull skis like Ultra 250X, 260X & LX can upgrade to the 2011 300X spec. There are two differences from the 2010 spec with 2 new parts.
    1. Anti-thrust Nut (to prevent shaft going forward in case of front bearing failure)
    2. Tapered Bushing (to prevent possible damage on seals during installation and a bit tighter fit for better sealing against water intrusion)

    Notice the Nut at the top end of the shaft.





    Here is the "main" parts list for the above 300X jet pump drawing.

    59496-3769Vane Guide (pump housing)
    59256-3777Impeller
    13107-0728 Shaft-Impeller
    92045-3744 Front bearings (2)
    92045-3745 Rear Bearing
    92049-3739 Seasl (3)
    92139-0767 Bushing
    92015-1512 Nut
    92033-3730 Snap Ring (aka "circlip")
    92055-0183O-ring (big)
    92055-025 O-Ring (small)
    92055-3744O-ring (med)
    92093-3749 Seal

    If you just want to upgrade your 2007-2010 LX/250X/260X pump, you may just need following parts only:
    13107-0728 Shaft
    92015-1512 Nut
    92045-3745 Rear Bearing
    92045-3744 Front bearings (2)
    92049-3739 Seals (3)
    92055-025 O-Ring (small)

    Either with 2010 or 2011+ spec, bearings should be checked/replaced:
    Every 50 hours - if ridden really hard.
    Every 75 hours - if ridden mixed hard & casual.
    Every 100 hours - if ridden casually most of time.

    Above interval is just a guideline for your reference only.

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  8. #7
    Cool ill check that out, yea I loved my LLY but I just over did it.. 2 completely different engines, low end torque on the dodge is crazy and the Dmax with the high HP... I'm not even sure If EFI is on the new engines yet, I know they just got reamed on the emissions stuff, luckily I bought the tuner a few months before they went in the 2-3000s... I had Idaho Rob on the Chevy what a night and day difference from edge.. Then I went with the Garret 4094 and it really turned into a jet

  9. #8
    Damn this site is awesome I've been searching everywhere for aftermarket parts, I'm not even sure how I stumbled on it,

    So the exhaust kit that deletes the mufflers, is there any gains to that??? Or what is the first step performance wise?

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by cvbwaller View Post
    Damn this site is awesome I've been searching everywhere for aftermarket parts, I'm not even sure how I stumbled on it,

    So the exhaust kit that deletes the mufflers, is there any gains to that??? Or what is the first step performance wise?
    On a LX there's not to much speed to be gained. Without sacrificing rough water hook up pretty much leave it stock and enjoy it for what it is if you mostly ride ocean.

  11. #10
    So if I were to press the set and mode button at the same time, and now F1 is flashing in the corner, what does that mean?

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