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  1. #1
    isaacv375's Avatar
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    polaris msx 150 TEMPERATURE LIGHT ON, this its what i found....

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    as y'all can see the gear on the upper right its broken therefore water pump wasnt working properly. Now i need to ask all of you msx experts, what kind of tools i need to pull the "flywell" and the "Balance shaft gear" . Also where to buy the broken gear?

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    also this how my seal and ring looks . is this normal ? or do i need to change also ? ..... shaft and gear for the pump looks ok. thanks Isaac.
    Last edited by K447; 04-01-2013 at 11:07 PM.


  2. #2
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    D'oh! You just uncovered one of the unfortunate Weber MSX engine weak points. Same thing happened to my original engine. Did you overheat your engine badly when it happened? Mine overheated bad enough to warp the block and my compression went way down to like 110#. Hope yours is okay.

    The flywheel is removed by inserting a large M20x1.5 threaded bolt while holding the flywheel from turning with a big wrench on the flat spots on the flywheel snout. Flywheel puller info thread here: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=190441

    You'll also need to remove the balance shaft gear. Service manual says this
    NOTE: The balance shaft gear (C) is removed by using
    tool: PN PW--46982 and PW--46989. Gear removal
    is not required. Only remove if damaged or replacement
    of balance shaft is required.
    I've never removed the gear but looks like it's a regular nut (w/ thread lock) and then you will need a puller to get the gear off the tapered and keyed snout. Looks like you need a 2 bolt puller... one on either side of the center bolt.

    As for new parts. Randy at WeberPower (dot com) is a great source for parts, service and free advice. In addition to a new gear, I would also replace that waterpump shaft seal you show in the picture. It's one of the cheaper parts for this engine ($13) and will give you peace of mind. I've heard others tracking coolant in the oil and suspecting that very seal.

    Here's the website page with waterpump parts:
    http://www.weberpower.com/polaris-ms...ater-pump.html

    Cheers!

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  4. #3
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    i cant see anything wrong.....

    no seriously bad times.

    if you can a$ord too, try and go down the polaris FST water pump gears and balance shaft. i did this conversion of you want to search my threads.

    make sure you torque / loctite up you flywheel bolt well. i did, but it still spun and broke woodruff key.

    also.. always change water pump seal. be carfull with the ceramic washer. your seal look normal. its two parts. the other is in the houseing. kind or rubber bonded ceramic washer.

  5. #4
    isaacv375's Avatar
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    thanks Spencer .
    Sounds like something i would try as my next project, i have a spare engine for parts that im gonna try to put together and i might do all those mods since im gonna have to either sleeve or re-nicasil the cylinders anyway.....


    Quote Originally Posted by spannerspencer View Post
    i cant see anything wrong.....

    no seriously bad times.

    if you can a$ord too, try and go down the polaris FST water pump gears and balance shaft. i did this conversion of you want to search my threads.

    make sure you torque / loctite up you flywheel bolt well. i did, but it still spun and broke woodruff key.

    also.. always change water pump seal. be carfull with the ceramic washer. your seal look normal. its two parts. the other is in the houseing. kind or rubber bonded ceramic washer.

  6. #5

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    Suppose you had to pull motor to get at that gear/look at water pump. I think I have a problem with my ski as I overheated it, it melted soem of the waterbox tubing and resonator., Replaced all that and the season ended. I htink it is still getting hot, but my temp. light does not work hence part of the reason it overheated.

  7. #6
    isaacv375's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koodat View Post
    Suppose you had to pull motor to get at that gear/look at water pump. I think I have a problem with my ski as I overheated it, it melted soem of the waterbox tubing and resonator., Replaced all that and the season ended. I htink it is still getting hot, but my temp. light does not work hence part of the reason it overheated.
    Yes you have to pull engine out, it's so much easier to get access to the waterpump. Some said it can be done without pulling it out. I honestly don't see how... Overheating could be for many reasons; coolant leak, pump failure, low compression or even ECU failure. If i was you i would check the two temp sensors to find why you arent getting any light on. Theres one on the coolant rail and the other sits on the back side of the exhaust manifold . If you suspect your engine it's overheating but not getting any light on can only tells that those sensors might not be working, after you check the specs on it check the connector on the one that sits on the manifold it's just a single cable, mine came off once therefore ECU would never triggers the "temperature light on".

  8. #7

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    My cap on that sensor got stripped off when I was rooting around the engine. I solderied the wire back on the cap, but unsure it works. Your saying w/o the plug attached to the sensor, will will not light up the MFD? Must then be a one way signal back to MFD. I thought if it was un-plugged it would immediatly get the MFD to signal over heat.

  9. #8
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    The exhaust temp "sensor"... is really a thermo switch (normally open). When the triggering exhaust temp is reached the switch closes and grounds the single wire going to it. The ECU sees this circuit complete and registers this as exhaust temp overheat. So if you unplug the switch... it will never trigger... and the ECU will be none the wiser. But you also loose that safety of exhaust overheat protection.

    We often recommend pulling the wire to eliminate this switch as a possible source of overheat warnings. I don't recommend permanently leaving this switch unhooked.

    Cheers!

  10. #9
    isaacv375's Avatar
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    Here is a picture of the broken gear and the new one , as you can see the design its slightly different . And case anyone would encounter this same problem i had i would recommend an oil/oil filter change as i found debris from that gear in my oil filter....

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  11. #10
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting a picture of OEM gear and the newer designed gear.

    I'm thinking if they went to the trouble to redesign the old, prone to fail gear... that the new design must be stronger.

    I would have used this newer gear in my engine... but I decided to upgrade my motor with Polaris FST parts... which use all metal gears.

    Now let hope has you get your engine put back together... that there was no residual damage done from the overheating.

    Cheers!

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