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  1. #1
    Chrisrokc's Avatar
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    Sanding for Hydroturf?

    Do you sand after the old mats are off? I got all the glue and mats up. Nothing left, looks like any other white part of the ski.


  2. #2

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    Nope I didnt on the 3 skis I have done.

  3. #3
    My son (mohawk man) jeffsntx's Avatar
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    I know that most people dont, but I used a wire wheel on my cordless drill to make sure I got all of the old turf and glue off, plus it gives it a little more "tooth" for the glue. Have fun laying the rear piece and be sure you have someone to help you with it. I did mine by myself and I will never try the rear piece again alone.

  4. #4

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    I wanted a clean glue line so I first put down masking tape, placed the mat on top of the tape, and used an exacto blade to trace around the mat. When you remove the mat and the tape that's immediately under the mat you will have a reference so the glue and any sanding marks won't stick out past the end of the matting. And yes, I lightly sanded just enough to brake the shiny glaze. When I did the gluing I pulled off the remaining tape just before I placed the mat so the tape would not drag glue up the side of the mat.

    Ken

  5. #5
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yamadoo2 View Post
    I wanted a clean glue line so I first put down masking tape, placed the mat on top of the tape, and used an exacto blade to trace around the mat. When you remove the mat and the tape that's immediately under the mat you will have a reference so the glue and any sanding marks won't stick out past the end of the matting. And yes, I lightly sanded just enough to brake the shiny glaze. When I did the gluing I pulled off the remaining tape just before I placed the mat so the tape would not drag glue up the side of the mat.

    Ken
    Great idea with the tape. I will have to do the same on mine when I go to install it.

  6. #6

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    Living here on the water I noticed that when the humidity is up the glue turns somewhat white from absorbing water. I'm sure that can't help the bond so I wait for a dry day when the humidity drops under 60%.

    Ken

  7. #7
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Yamadoo2 great idea with the tape

    I am very picky with my work it is not worth doing if not done right.

    I removed all old mats and glue used Acetone to clean everything then prefitted the mats and traced them with a pencil then went and lightly sanded to the pencil line with a small round disk on my air sander. I then went back cleaned again and applied the glue per instructions I was very careful to put the glue only between the lines and applied the pad carefully the end result was a very clean looking job.

    I assure next one I will use tape I like that idea

  8. #8
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    I have a steady hand(shut up guys!) and i removed the old mats,prepped surfaces, layed the new mats on dry,took a sharp pencel and outlined each mat.right were they go.I then used a 2" brush and applied glue to the hull,then to the mat.Made sure the glue hazed up then stuck it down.Just dont go out of the lines and do not apply too much.

  9. #9
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Yup. The way I do it. I also go back and push them down again after about 30mins, just to be sure.

    I've used another way, for doing repairs, but DO NOT recommend it for new install.
    For repairs, I find something that will apply constant pressure on the offending area. I then re-glue the matt and body part, wait for the haze, and literally leave the heavy part on that part of the mat for a while.

    It's overkill, but it's never failed to secure a pesky re-occuring glue failure.
    Last edited by Hydrotoys; 02-23-2007 at 12:18 AM.

  10. #10
    Mr Bill's Avatar
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    Anyone tried the mats with adhesive already on them? Seems it would be much easier!

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