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  1. #1
    Miglater's Avatar
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    96 SL 900 from looking at to fixing, and now upgrading :D

    The other day i decided to pickup a 96 SL 900, upon goin thru it to inspect everything. I pulled the pump today and during inspection I found the steering cable boot has a small tear near the end twards the nozzle. I was gunna take a pic of it to post but i forgot. The cable itself still slides nice and free. I was wondering what i could do to seal it? Or is it possible to replace just the boot? What about zip tie the boot just before the tear? Could I pack it with silicone grease and run it til it starts to become a problem? Will this leak into the hull or is it sealed where the cable passes thru the hull?
    Last edited by Miglater; 05-20-2013 at 09:14 PM.


  2. #2
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    Im pretty sure that boot isn't even necessary.

  3. #3
    Miglater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    Im pretty sure that boot isn't even necessary.


    Awsome! Thx Bryan! I got some pics of the pump and stator etc... i'll post em in a little bit.

  4. #4
    Miglater's Avatar
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    Alright, Pulled the pump, Impeller to wear ring is .013 to .018 clearance, is it possible the corrosion between the wear ring and stator caused the readings to differ when measiring clearance or could the stator be off center when it was cast? I am planning to acquire a ss stator and new wear ring in the future, the current components look ok to run for now. I need to do some filing to the impeller as you'll see in the pics. I ordered a impeller removal tool and new driveshaft bumpers as they were missing when i removed the shaft. I removed the cone to check the stub shaft and it looked dry, Should of been aswell as it was rtv'd and a pain to break the seal. The stator bearings spin smooth and have no play. The stator itself has just 2 small chips in it that should file out nice when i get the impeller off to access it. Other things i did find late last night were a block of wood behind the waterbox, the waterbox appears to sit 1/2 inch lower than the stinger from the pipe. Checking the motor mounts and they are good however, the port side rear mount has a bolt from mount to hull that insint fully tight, it's not loose as i couldn't move it by hand but i can spin the lockwasher freely under the head. Gunna remove that bolt today and check it's the proper length before possibly putting a hole in the hull by tightening something that could be too long I looked at the other mounts and they dont look to be backed out at all, still gunna check them just to be sure.

    A few questions before the pics-

    Why is there a block of wood behind the waterbox? Normal or wtf? I'll get a pic of it today when i go out there.

    What should be done about the height differnce of the stinger to waterbox? I'll get a pic of this today aswell.

    I think i'll take the waterbox out and see what i find, I gotta get under it anyways to soak up the fresh 2 stroke oil from the prev. owner trying to fill the oil tank to stop the blinking light on the dash, It's been switched to premix. The guy bought it last year in august, rode it twice and put it away so i don't think he even had to put gas in it. lol

    Here's the pics.



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  5. #5
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    Chances are the variances in your wear ring measurement come from the pump sections not being completely assembled. When you tighten up the pump bolts it squeezes the pump sections together and aligns everything.

    That drive shaft looks like junk. If that sealing surface isn't perfectly smooth, you need to replace the shaft.

    .013-.018 clearance is within the service limit, but not optimal, especially if the number is closer to the .018. May want to look at having the impeller refurbished.

    Im going to guess that the bracket under the waterbox is broken or missing. If it is there, the exhaust outlet should line up with the water box.

  6. #6
    Miglater's Avatar
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    I took more pics today, looks like whomever assembled the connection from pipe to box was in a hurry, the pic shows it needs a new section of hose there. Was able to tighten the motormount to hull bolt, the bolt threads needed cleaning before it would go in all the way. Removed the box and found the braket, took a pic of it, not sure if thats all of it or if something is missing.

    I cleaned up the driveshaft with some scotch-brite and removed the coupler shroud and the thru hull bearing/seal to check it out, if there are bearings, the're siezed as i couldn't spin them, the driveshaft also has alot of play when i put it into the bearing/seals, also didn't have any grease in it, grease sert had fresh grease on it but nothing made it inside.

    Will a drive shaft from any 2 seater work or is this one specific to 900/1050 models?

    More pics.

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    Yes it's nasty in there dur to the oil, i spent some time today soaking alot of it up with paper towel, there's still some under the fuel tank and under the engine cradle, gunna drain the tank and remove it to get as much as i can, we have some of those oil absorbing sheets at work so i'll grab some and slide 1 unser the tank and another under the engine if there's room, should get it good enuf to actually wash down the inside of the hull.

    What to use for inside of hull cleaning, sinple green, purple power,or powder dishwasher detergent/water solution?

  7. #7
    Miglater's Avatar
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    Looking at driveshafts, thinking new would be the best route, which of these would be better?

    http://www.watercraftsuperstore.net/601SB306.html

    or

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/WSM-Drive-Sh...472daf&vxp=mtr

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miglater View Post
    ... removed the coupler shroud and the thru hull bearing/seal to check it out, if there are bearings, the're siezed as i couldn't spin them, the driveshaft also has alot of play when i put it into the bearing/seals, also didn't have any grease in it, grease sert had fresh grease on it but nothing made it inside...
    Through-hull carrier uses pressed in bushings, not bearings. Should be nearly zero play when in position on the driveshaft, assuming the driveshaft itself is not worn or damaged.

    Bushings and seals can be replaced. See Jet Pump section via my signature links.

  9. #9
    Miglater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Through-hull carrier uses pressed in bushings, not bearings. Should be nearly zero play when in position on the driveshaft, assuming the driveshaft itself is not worn or damaged.

    Bushings and seals can be replaced. See Jet Pump section via my signature links.
    Very nice, thanks! Everytime i read thru the knowledgebase, i find something new. I ordered the bushing/seal kit from weber and found a lightly used shaft on ebay. The old shaft cleaned up ok but i still feel grooves with fingernail so it's a temporary backup if anything happens to the new used one

    I really enjoy working on this ski, i can only imagine how much fun it will be when it's done.

  10. #10
    Miglater's Avatar
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    Alright, time for an update. New used driveshaft, carrier bushings and seals installed, new pump seals. Exhaust pipe to water box hose replaced. Modified the hood prop rod so it works. Removed most of the decals and applied new ones. New races/bearings in trailer hubs. Repaired winch bracket. 2morrow is gunna be 77 ish so i'm thinking it's time to head out to the lake and run it on the trailer for a bit and check cylinder temps, water leaks etc... I have the day off but, no one will be coming with me to test so i wont be riding except maybe putts'in along the shoreline in the no wake zone near the launch. Water is too cold to swim it to shore if something goes wrong. Click image for larger version. 

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