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  1. #1

    Oops...motor has slide forward

    Hi all, although I have a general idea of what happened I was unable to find any specifics out there on my upcoming project.

    I have a 2000 Pro 1200, last week I was out on the lake, for the first time this year, and heard two loud snapping noises and then I had no more propulsion. The motor would just rev up as if there was no drive attached. I got a tow to the "beach" and found that the motor had slide forward no longer together with the drive shaft that comes through the hull.
    The crank is still coming out the back of the motor as normal, but it is not long enough to "splice" into the driveshaft. It seems as if it has slid forward roughly four inches, could be more or less. There is a cradle/table that the motor sits on, the bolts that hold it to that have broken, it is not the table to the hull. The motor runs as if normal.
    I have not gone in that deep to see what needs to happen for a fix, I assume that there are shims and what not that align the motor perfectly when I put it back in place, which seems will make it a total cluster. I would think this is comparable to putting a motor back in after pulling (which I have not done) but I am sure a lot of members on here have done and know how. To you guys, what needs to happen. For alignment, what do I need to do there? Bolt sizes and grade?
    Thank you all very much

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    There are bolts that go through the engine bed plates and screw into the bottom of the engine crank case. It sounds like those bolts corroded or loosened and now are no longer holding the engine in place.

    You will need to remove the engine from the hull, which means disconnecting all the hoses, electrical cables, etc. The exhaust pipe will need to be disconnected. Depending on the clearances, you may need to remove the carburetors and possibly the intake or exhaust manifold.

    Once the engine is out of the hull, inspect the bottom of the engine.

    Also remove the engine bed plates. Make note of how many shims are under each corner, and scribe where the bed plate was positioned relative to the mounting studs.

    Hopefully the old bolts can be removed and the crank case holes are re-usable.

    If it would be helpful, post photos here so we can see what you have, situation wise.

    BTW, with the engine out of the hull, now would be an opportunity to inspect everything and freshen wear items like the through-hull shaft seals and bushings, jet pump impeller stub shaft bearings and seals, etc.

    New fuel lines, carb rebuilds? Now is the time, if any of these things need doing.

  3. #3
    Thank you for your reply sir. The thought of pulling the motor, hasn't crossed me as for some reason I didn't remember that the bolts screwed upward into the crank. Hopefully the heads didnt snap off and the bolt is still in the case. I wont have time to get to until this weekend and I will post pics then, I just wanted to get a head start on getting advice on how to do this.
    I am unsure about what you mean by the engine bed plates? Hopefully I will catch it this weekend when I look under the engine. Luckily the carbs are new rebuilds last year (long story lol).

    I do plan on placing new lines both fuel and oil. I remember a few threads recommending ( I believe he is a member on here, or there is a member that produces fuel lines) Is that the right company? I will also look at the seals, when i bought the ski four summers ago, all of that stuff was supposedly replaced but you know how that goes. However, I would think after four summers of riding those items are prolly due for a change.

    I was also concerned with damage on the driveshaft and the splines. Ill post some pics as soon as I get into it. Thank you K447!

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    This diagram might be helpful.

    2000 Pro 1200 engine mounting

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  5. #5
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    I just picked up 100 feet of that fuel line. Seems to be good stuff. I have had it in other skis for a few seasons now.

  6. #6
    Yes it does thank you.

    And Bryan, I'll be ordering some of the line this week. I also have a slx that wants new lines.

  7. #7
    Well, didnt get to it this weekend, hopefully next, or the next college will do that to you tho

  8. #8
    Alright, so I finally go to it. I was able to pull the motor with only removing the exhaust and manifold. Thank gosh not the carbs and their intake manifold.

    I found that the front motor mounts were broken at the rubber and the rear two were not. The motor was still properly bolted to the piece of metal that runs between the two mounts. Interesting story but I believe the rear two bolts that bolt the motor to the bar were never bolted there. The ends did not snap off in the bottom of the motor and I couldn't find the two bolts. ???? So I am unsure about that. It could of let to the extreme stress on just the two front motor mounts leading to their failure.

    I am obviously purchasing the new two front motor mounts, should I replace the rear two? They seem to be in good condition and could of possibly been replaced four years ago, but not sure.

    Where the mounts bolt to the bar I saw the shims. The front right side has five and the front left only has two. I shouldn't do any messing with this right? I have not looked at the back yet.

    I pulled the jet pump as I am planning on doing a rebuild but was disgusted with the condition of the stator and will be looking for a new one as txpro and Bryanp recommended to me last year. I just haven't done it yet!

    Please see the pics from hull right in front of the stator and impeller. There is significant damage to the hull. Could this be from cavitation? How should this be fixed?

    For some reason the impeller wasn't screwed to the jet pump? Could this of resulted from the issue when the motor slide forward and the impeller moving with the water when I was being towed?

    Also, the middle pulse line is not connected to the carbs as the other two pulse lines are, connect to pto and mag cylinder. Is this correct? It has been like this since I owned the ski.

    Also I'm doing the fuel and oil lines. I was thinking like 20 feet of fuel should do it and same for oil. I also have a 94 sl750 I'm doing. Same 20 and 20 should be enough?

    Thank you all for your help, you guys are awesome!!

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  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    The tunnel damage looks like the impeller propelled itself forward (since it was not properly screwed onto the stator stub shaft) and just chewed right into the hull material. Going to be an interesting repair!

    I also see a lot of black goop on the pitot base, intake grate front bolt area and the driveshaft through-hull area of the pump tunnel. I would be cleaning all that up and confirming the condition of those pieces. If the pitot needs a new seal or whatever, do it properly. Lumpy stuff in the water flow can cause cavitation, and of course you don't want water leaks if you can fix them with the jet pump out of the way.

    The driveshaft should just slide right out the back, with some tugging.

  10. #10

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