Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15
  1. #1
    locito007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    66
    +1
    1

    Smile Back again this time with a Polaris TX 1200 Virage 01...

    Hello all, I am back on the hulk as an active poster after having a year off working on an old outboard 2 stroke motor and 14 foot runabout. I was distracted and got deep down in the details of the build all the way from reviving the 30 year old hull down to the stringers and transom and then having much help from URUGOL go get the motor running on all pistons due to some electrical issues and too many gremlin bugs which I will not name here. Anyway, on Sunday I bought a 2001 TX Virage which is in the red/white/black scheme. The young guy I bought it from had issues with the starter shorting on him the next day after he bought the ski from a friend. Him and his dad attempted to fix the starter motor and solenoid with no success so they gave up and sold it to me in pieces. After rebuilding the MSX 140 a couple of years ago, I am now so much more confident in fixing this carbie version which seems to have more room to work on the motor while in the hull..well maybe continue to read on. Now as far as I am aware I did not get any compression numbers on the cylinders since the starter motor that was in it looks to be the original one and the nozzle has welded itself to the flywheel casing and the body of the starter has broken off. I have seen others have had the same issue as what I have. Since the exhaust system inculding the manifold are already off I started last night to take off the flywheel cover off with the oil pump in place and just moved it aside. Now I have noticed that the bendix does not come out without taking out the flywheel itself last night just as it does on the MSX 140. Ok, so far I have used one bottle of propane to heat the nozzle on the flywheel cover before I start to hammer out the bit of stater nozzle that is welded in the cover. Oh yes I forgot to mention that I have pushed the fueld and oil tanks all the way forward to the front of the ski to give me the most amount of swing I can get while the motor is still in the ski. I am at the point now where my mind is starting to play tricks on me after hammering on the nozzle with an extension bit from my socket set and hammer after heating the housing as much as possible. Not sure if it has moved yet, however, trying to take my time as much as possible not to damage the bendix, flywheel cover or my hands! So now I think I may just invest the time and effort and lift the motor out of the ski and while I am there I can easily check and investigate the oil pump, remove the flywheel, bedix, etc. Oh yes and get those stinking tempo fuel lines off the ski and replace them with new clear lines.

    Anyway, just thought I would reintroduce myself and let you all know where I am at after dissapearing for some time while doing a differnt kind of project. Oh yes if anyone has the bucket which goes in the back of the Virage under the lifting seat please PM me to chat about it since mine is miss it.

    Regards,
    Locito007


  2. #2
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    16,708
    +1
    1,324
    I would pull the motor. The way I got one of those out was to keep going at it with penetrating oil. I think it took me about a week of doing spraying oil on it and letting it sit. It eventually popped free.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,596
    +1
    1,276
    Welcome back

    I would pull the engine out. You are going to have a much easier time of it on a workbench.

    Beware that huge amounts of torch heat on the flywheel could have cooked the magneto stator and/or the front crank shaft seal. I suggest changing that front shaft seal while you have the engine out. Requires pulling the entire flywheel housing off, which means you would also have full access to the starter motor snout problem.

    Inspect the flywheel teeth and Bendix for any signs of damage.

    Tip: Do not lose track of the washers and spring that sit in front of the Bendix shaft. These tend to stick with grease, then fall out when you are not looking.
    Last edited by K447; 04-16-2013 at 07:51 PM.

  4. #4
    locito007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    66
    +1
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome back

    I would pull the engine out. You are going to have a much easier time of it on a workbench.
    Well last night I got lucky after starting to get orgainsed to go over to my brothers to get my engine hoist and stand I gave the bit of nozzle one last go and it popped out! I have used a scope to inspect and see if I caused any damage to the bendix or flywheel cover and all is good. Just left it there to cool down for the night while I worked on removing hoses, wire harnesses, etc. I am still planning on taking out the flywheel to take your advice and give it a good inspection and check the stator wires too to make sure I have not caused any damage which could bite me later, once it is all sealed up.

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome back

    Tip: Do not loose track of the washers and spring that sit in front of the Bendix shaft. These tend to stick with grease, then fall out when you are not looking.
    Funny you say that about the washers and spring on the front of the Bendix shaft! I even knew about that from reading the service manual and still while I was concerned about popping the flywheel cover of straight not to cause any damage, ping I heard the little [email protected]@rd drop somewhere on the bottom of the dirty oily hull. So I am still searching around for it to turn up. I even used a very strong magnet I have to swipe under the fuel support rubbers, foam padding, motor etc. and still need to spot the darn thing. Anyway, goes to show you can never be too careful.

    My aim is to pull out the motor and give the hull a good clean then put it all back with new fuel lines, oil lines and if all the components look good to go back in then with some luck I should get some compression number by this weekend out of it.

  5. #5
    locito007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    66
    +1
    1
    Well good news is last night I got the motor out without any issues. The one little bad thing is that I still have not found that darn spring for the bendix even with an empty hill. I am sure I heard it hit the hull somewhere. I'm going to remove the fuel tank and maybe it's somewhere there. Here are some pics since I just noticed I've not taken any till last night for the hulk community to see.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21366429363.931044.jpg 
Views:	175 
Size:	80.7 KB 
ID:	299008
    Want to see something funny! Check out how one of the previous owners made 2 hole on the lips of the seat bracket to get those 2 bolts that you remove from the stinger pipe with a short socket and leave in until you get the stinger off. Not sure what happened there? Maybe a bit of a brain snap moment. Lesson to always consult the community before messing with the integrity of the hull.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21366429490.600478.jpg 
Views:	124 
Size:	62.0 KB 
ID:	299009

  6. #6
    locito007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    66
    +1
    1
    All, it has been a while since I've gotten back onto getting this Virage back in action since I've been sidetracked with getting my outboard boat to running good over the Aussie winter and also family commitments. Anyways to fill everyone in i have got the motor in and mounted and plugged in as I can see it should be as a stock ski following the service manual. Ok good news is I've got the motor starting however the lanyard does not turn the motor off. I can only kill it by choking it, pulling out the spark plugs leads or unplugging the battery. The fastest way I've been using is unplugging the plug leads. Anyways I've been reading all the related threads about issues with the lr 505 voltage regulator. Anyway I've swapped the lr module with 2 spare lr 505 modules. The me lr modules have fixed the issue originally I had last week with regards to the bildge switch turning the ski on at times and them at other time the start stop switch working and then not. However, with the 2 new lr modules my lanyard is yet another gremlin issue I need to get sorted out before I can take this ski out in the water to give it the first water test under load. Anyway, I've used my test light to confirm the lanyard switch has resistance closed and none when opened. I've also traced the black yellow cable to the electrical box to confirm currency when lanyard is in and none when the lanyard is out. Which makes me think the wiring of the black and black/yellow wires are ok and not having a grounding issue here.

    The issue I have now is where to go next? Could it be my cdi is failing? Or should I be looking at something else?

    K447 (keith) I've been reading all your post on related issues and am starting to fall short on ideas. I'm hoping to not continue just component swapping things since I've got a feeling this could be a very simple issue but I'm
    Failing to see what. I understand the way the lanyard is supposed to work when the key is out the wire should be grounded and when the key is in the grounding should be off to allow the engine to start and run!


    Thanks all

  7. #7
    David Drkvampire2001's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Edgerton, Wisconsin, United States
    Posts
    2,857
    +1
    30
    How are the grounds in the box? just becuase you have good wires from the lanyard to the board, does not mean you have a good ground from the board, to the battery, ( i had similiar issues, riding on the water, engine was going, MFD went out trim didnt work, nothing got back to the dock chocked it to dead pulled open the Ebox, found the nut that holds all the grounds in the Ebox had come loose, causing a no gruonding for half the box)

  8. #8
    locito007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    66
    +1
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Drkvampire2001 View Post
    How are the grounds in the box? just becuase you have good wires from the lanyard to the board, does not mean you have a good ground from the board, to the battery, ( i had similiar issues, riding on the water, engine was going, MFD went out trim didnt work, nothing got back to the dock chocked it to dead pulled open the Ebox, found the nut that holds all the grounds in the Ebox had come loose, causing a no gruonding for half the box)
    Thanks drkvampire2001! Yes I checked the grounding points which are on the ebox connected the the mount bracket of the lr 505 module I installed recently. I'm hoping it's not the cdi unit since these are not cheap. I also think I forgot to mention the the stop button does not work in turning it off too. I have checked continuity on the black/yellow and black wires for the lanyard. I've even tried to ground the circuit directly without it killing the motor. Any further tips welcome thank you to a great community out there.

  9. #9
    locito007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    66
    +1
    1
    All I have gone through some gremlin bugs on this Virage TX and now I am at a fuel delivery issue which URUGOL has been able to identify. I have been trying to prime the fuel line disconnecting the return line going to the fuel pump assembly. Ive blocked the return line on the assembly and put about 30 to 40 psi in the fuel filler with a cloth blocking the filler. After about 30 seconds I get a very slow dribble of fuel. However, when I disconnect the fuel pickup line which goes into the carb rack and put the 30 to 40 psi of pressure I get a strong flow of fuel. I have bypassed the water seperater and stock fuel switch to confirm these are not the cause. My process of elimination tells me the carb rack is at fault. This is a brand new rack I bought on the classifieds last year. Any advise would be much apreciated to diagnose the cause? Thanks guys

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,596
    +1
    1,276
    Quote Originally Posted by locito007 View Post
    All I have gone through some gremlin bugs on this Virage TX and now I am at a fuel delivery issue which URUGOL has been able to identify.

    I have been trying to prime the fuel line disconnecting the return line going to the fuel pump assembly. Ive blocked the return line on the assembly and put about 30 to 40 psi in the fuel filler with a cloth blocking the filler. After about 30 seconds I get a very slow dribble of fuel.

    However, when I disconnect the fuel pickup line which goes into the carb rack and put the 30 to 40 psi of pressure I get a strong flow of fuel.

    I have bypassed the water separator and stock fuel switch to confirm these are not the cause. My process of elimination tells me the carb rack is at fault. This is a brand new rack I bought on the classifieds last year. Any advise would be much appreciated to diagnose the cause? Thanks guys
    I cannot say exactly what is going on but the air pressures you are using are extreme.

    The normal fuel line pressure after the fuel pump on a carburetor engine is maybe 4-6 PSI.

    Air pressure inside the fuel tank should never get above 1-2 PSI, relieved by a venting check valve to atmosphere. Huge air pressure in the fuel tank can split the tank apart.

    Pop-off pressures for testing the carbs are way under 40 PSI typically.

    Are you sure you have not confused fuel feed with fuel return fittings on the carb rack? Pulse hose that powers each fuel pump must be connected to the correct nipple on each fuel pump, of course.

    A stock Polaris Keihin carburetor set will have a fuel pump integrated into the front and rear carbs. The centre carb is supplied from the front and rear pumps.
    Last edited by K447; 02-04-2014 at 09:53 AM.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. FS - Parts Chris Fischetti Polaris Pro 1200 & Virage Steering
    By 800AMSOIL4U in forum Polaris Classifieds
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-16-2016, 02:24 PM
  2. 2002 TX 1200 Virage no spark issue...
    By HU112BU in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-31-2014, 10:48 PM
  3. Back again, and with problems.
    By codemanrose in forum Yamaha Old School Skis
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-23-2009, 07:28 AM
  4. Ok guys, thinking polaris again... this time pro 785! Questions
    By jcc011185 in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 53
    Last Post: 07-30-2007, 08:28 AM
  5. Brought a camera with me this time
    By pirate33 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-13-2006, 03:33 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •