Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1

    2001 Seadoo GTX DI Help

    Hi I was hoping someone could help,
    So I have heard that there is a way of checking fault codes
    Press start button 5 times with lanyard off get on short beep one long beep which tells me I'm in advance settings
    I attach lanyard and had two short beeps


    Earlier today before I took it for a run I tried to do this test I had the following results
    Press start button 5 times with lanyard off get on short beep one long beep which tells me I'm in advance settings
    I attach lanyard and had one longer beep


    Also I tried conducting rectifier test started test with battery reading 12vdc started ski and found at idle had around 13-14vdc
    During increased rpm readings went up to 16vdc also I was told another check by disconnecting rectifier red/Black cable if ski works well its the rectifier is this correct, I have also conducted a magneto test it checks ok below is the initial fault


    Ok, I have had a full engine rebuild due to the following problems,
    At low rpm to start with ski misfires and don't wanna go, once I get to about 4000rpm the ski cruises any more throttle ski just Boggs down if I release throttle ski will cruise at 4000rpm I could only get it to go around 4000rpm.
    Since the rebuild I have the same problem now.
    Cleaned fuel lines and tank and conducted pressure test
    Cleaned oil lines and tank
    Cleaned fuel rail checked all injectors operation
    Checked rave solinoid
    Checked battery charging
    Cleaned rave valves have noticed water bubbles under rave housing after every test
    Found when checking spark at plugs found on spark nice and blue one yellow both new
    Replaced sparks (have noticed they went black after a few minutes running)
    Checked the resistance of ignition coils
    I have no maint lights, or alarms, lanyard on gives to short beeps, fuel pump starts.
    I am in a remote locality and can't access candoo pro, am looking at this but just spent $$$ on rebuild. And was told by a seadoo shop that this may not show any errors, so it's a risk taking it so far!!!!
    I have had ski go once or twice but after about 5 minutes after releasing throttle or switching engine off problem returns.
    Please help I am new at this!!!!


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Garland, Tx
    Posts
    256
    +1
    12
    My first step in this situation, would be to get a shop manual, and a voltmeter, and go through every sensor to ensure proper operation first.
    Double check your throttle position sensors.

    This is a simple fuel injection system.. If something is not working, it won't work. Simple!
    Sounds like its getting rich condition, so check to make sure your not in limp home mode. You might have had something go incorrectly during engine intsall or what not.

    Eliminate what works correctly, and eventually you will find what doesn't work!

  3. #3
    Thank you jetman150
    I will check all sensors I have checked the following
    Rectifier
    Injectors
    Magneto
    Rave solenoid
    Ignition coils
    Spark
    Fuel filter
    Fuel pressure
    Rave valves
    If I am limp mode should I get a alarm I am not getting anything

  4. #4
    Sorry, Jetman is totally off-base here. First of all, this is a very complex FI system, not simple at all. Second, if there were a sensor issue, it would throw a fault, and you said there is no MAINT warning. I suspect you still have either a fuel pressure issue or air pressure issue. You didn't say how you checked fuel pressure; there are two tests for fuel pressure, one static, one dynamic. Please advise what you did exactly and your results.
    Black/rich plugs are rare on a DI, imply either an air pressure problem or a bad fuel or air injector. I have seen improper swaps between years cause this as well. (They changed engine design in 2002, if you have some 2002 parts on your 2001 it can cause this)

  5. #5
    Ok thank you
    I checked the fuel pressure(out of water) placed gauge on fuel outlet to rail where filter was put lanyard on pressure was about 25 psi, cranked engine and pressure went to about 105psi!!!
    I have checked air injectors with 12vdc test
    Not sure how to do air pressure test
    Fuel is new oil is new to replace this I removed tanks
    Also not sure if this is a problem but when I remove the rave valves there are some small water droplets on both valves

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Garland, Tx
    Posts
    256
    +1
    12
    Its electrical.. It either works or it doesn't. Real simple. People think the DI's are so dang finicky and complex like the space shuttle.. They are not any more complex than a typical FI on an auto.
    You can check the air pressure by using the hose that comes into the fuel rail from the compressor.. Make sure to unplug the fuel pump and bleed down the pressure first. (Or per manual)

    There's also, crank position sensor, throttle sensors, knock sensor, etc..
    I'm not willing to guess your problem until you eliminate the simple things first.. Then I'd start looking at cleanliness of the injectors.. Air and fuel..

    But this sounds like a fuel-air problem to me..

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Garland, Tx
    Posts
    256
    +1
    12
    There's a great troubleshooting section for the DIs in the shop manual, plenty of places to download it.. It doesn't show optiong logic, but it can help you narrow down the problem. This assumes basic familiarity with fuel injection systems in general.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Jetman150 View Post
    Its electrical.. It either works or it doesn't. Real simple. People think the DI's are so dang finicky and complex like the space shuttle.. They are not any more complex than a typical FI on an auto.

    But this sounds like a fuel-air problem to me..
    Jetman, apparently you don't understand the difference between the typical auto FI and the Orbital DI system, so let me enlighten you. They are not anything alike. The typical auto system is closed loop, low pressure injection of the fuel into the intake port. The DI system uses high pressure fuel and air to inject the fuel directly into the cylinder, and is open loop. The DI MPEM uses input from the various sensors to choose the right position in the injection map. If the sensor is not in range, it throws a fault. So your statement "it's electrical.. it either works or it doesn't" is totally wrong. You seem oblivious to the fact he said there are no MAINT faults, so the MPEM thinks all the sensors are OK. If there were an electrical issue, the MPEM would throw a fault.

    The bottom line is that the OP's current problem is likely not related to any of the sensors. The MPEM "thinks" all is OK with them. That is not to say that a sensor could be out of range, which it could, and cause these types of problems, but he will not be able to tell this without a Candoopro system, which he doesn't want to buy.

    If fuel and air pressure are OK, then the next place to look is the injectors. Question; are both plugs sooty? It is rare for injectors on both sides to go.

    What is the background of this ski? Has it ever run properly, or did you buy it in this condition?

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Garland, Tx
    Posts
    256
    +1
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    Jetman, apparently you don't understand the difference between the typical auto FI and the Orbital DI system, so let me enlighten you. They are not anything alike. The typical auto system is closed loop, low pressure injection of the fuel into the intake port. The DI system uses high pressure fuel and air to inject the fuel directly into the cylinder, and is open loop. The DI MPEM uses input from the various sensors to choose the right position in the injection map. If the sensor is not in range, it throws a fault. So your statement "it's electrical.. it either works or it doesn't" is totally wrong. You seem oblivious to the fact he said there are no MAINT faults, so the MPEM thinks all the sensors are OK. If there were an electrical issue, the MPEM would throw a fault.

    The bottom line is that the OP's current problem is likely not related to any of the sensors. The MPEM "thinks" all is OK with them. That is not to say that a sensor could be out of range, which it could, and cause these types of problems, but he will not be able to tell this without a Candoopro system, which he doesn't want to buy.

    If fuel and air pressure are OK, then the next place to look is the injectors. Question; are both plugs sooty? It is rare for injectors on both sides to go.

    What is the background of this ski? Has it ever run properly, or did you buy it in this condition?


    There are multiple reasons, why the mpem may not think any of the sensors are out of whack. including, the mpem being bad. Its really, really, hard to diagnose anyhting over the internet, phone, or whatever, and the going conclusion on this board, is "get a candoo" .. Im not going to disagree with the candoo, but there are some things you can do to eliminate some of the issues without one. It makes it easier, no doubt, but its not completely necessary.
    Yes, I agree with you, it is strange that both plugs are dark.. This is why I mentioned to check the throttle position sensors.. there are so many possibilities... hell, the engine might be "out of phase" .. not likely, but possible!

    Your not reading my best advice, which I posted above.. "get a shop manual, read the troubleshooting chart, and start to narrow down the issues" it takes diligence, and it might be out of your comfort zone, but it will keep you from nickel and diming a ski, throwing parts at it, and still ending up frustrated.

    I do know the difference. And FYI, even modern Speed-Density systems run in open loop. they only run in closed loop during warm up. The dude is asking for help on an internet forum.. and Ive given the best advice that I can give, based off of my experience, wrenching on many different engines, of all makes, types, etc.. take it or leave it,

  10. #10
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Posts
    6,531
    +1
    1,284
    I tend to advise di owners on candoo, as in most other instances, there was a fault light. While I'm a fan of having correct tools for a job, there are some things that can go wrong on an engine install..and it sure sounds like that where I would be looking if the ecu wasn't throwing any active fault. Of course looking a the fault history is really really handy.

    if fuel pressure is low, I don't believe there is a fault code for that. Having a maint warning makes repairs much simpler. Same with air pressure. That 16 volt charge reading is a bit worrisome, it's at the upper reasonable limit. Water droplets on the rave valve..really?..well that needs to get fixed. can't have water anywhere near the combustion chamber. Find that leak and defeat it. 951 pipes are uberly tricky. there is some writeup on best practice on fixing a leaky 951 pipe

    I've had my share of non carbed seadoos 2 strokes that have shortened my patience a great deal. I have an rfi at the moment that throws an error for no discernible reason "everything checks out". I have to throw some parts at it. Cheap at first..then out comes the sawzall

    I'd advise the technically minded to start with the manuals troubleshooting steps, or consult with somebody who has done a bunch of di work and has a code reading tool and can make a diagnosis based on observation of engine performance

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2001 seadoo GTX DI HELP!!!
    By Aaronm in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-15-2013, 08:16 AM
  2. 2001 Seadoo GTX DI Problem HELP!!!!
    By Aaronm in forum Sea Doo How To & FAQs
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-11-2013, 04:09 PM
  3. FS 2001 seadoo gtx-di
    By N8R in forum Sea Doo 2 Stroke Skis
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-03-2010, 10:24 PM
  4. 2001 Seadoo GTX DI project
    By 785xp in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-24-2009, 04:00 PM
  5. 2001 Seadoo GTX DI or 1999 Yamaha xl1200
    By macmac in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-11-2007, 12:44 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •