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  1. #1

    Water leaking through bolt holes on driveshaft coupler?

    Hi am new to the forum and have had a huge headache with my jet ski...2005 ultra 150..it was leaking at the driveshaft last season so i replaced the coupler and it fixed the problem..rode it for the whole summer with no issues..the ski ran great..before i winterized it i took it out for one last ride and it took on a lot of water..so i dropped it back in and rode it without the seat on and could see that water was leaking from aroung the 4 bolts on the coupler..so i went home and took it apart and resealed everything..its still leaking but not as bad..does anyone know what i need to do or what kind of sealent i need to use to fix this..do i need to replace the coupler again?..its driving me crazy PLEASE HELPPPPPP


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    hi, welcome aboard.

    there are many discussions of this bit on the forums . Use the search.

    short story, leaks from the "bolt holes" means the seal is broken internally. This bit is sandwiched steel plate and rubber.

    Check the engine alignment, repeated failure of the thru hull bearing seals means it's tweeked.

    Lots of choice on sealant. You'll find that I'm a big fan of Permatex "right stuff"

    everybody else prefers some other product for this job, couple use right stuff also..it's a crapshoot I guess.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the info! So what you are saying is that I will need to replace the seal again? Last time I replaced it I discovered a broken front motor mount and replaced it.. Should I have replaced them all at the same time?

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    broken motor mount means trouble, check the other ones for sure. Follow shop manual info in aligning engine coupler and driveshaft coupler. given the possible sinkage, replace the bearing holder/seal and make sure the engine is aligned. "Good enough" isn't in this case. Has to be on the dime..or get ready to replace this seal every season.

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  6. #5
    ok so most likely the seal went bad again due to the engine not be aligned correctly?

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    Also don't tighten the thru hull down until you align the motor then tighten the through hull down completely.

  8. #7
    Ok... The last time I installed the seal I tightened it before I set the motor so I guess that's where I went wrong

  9. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    any side thrust on that thru hull bearing assembly will cause it to heat up quickly, and that melts the rubber cast in around it.

    Proper alignment is key to a long life for this part and your driveshaft

    Not to mention it's a painful and risky job as most folks ( myself included) will only lift the engine up off the mounts with a hoist and manipulate the driveshaft into place trying to minimize the time your hands are spent in the crush zone underneath the suspended engine. I slip blocks of wood under the motor mounts to prevent a serious injury if the rigging fails.

  10. #9
    I use ge silicon 2. Had the same issue put a brandnew one in from wsm last season. During an engine swap I pulled it out to inspect to find it cracked again. Ski had brandnew motor mounts and was aligned correctly. Seng it back to wsm and they gave me a replacement. This forced me to install a bilge pump and drain plugs with check valves in them. Never know when they are going to fail. I had a ski almost sink because of it.

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