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  1. #1
    miami heat's Avatar
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    How to change impeller ????

    hi guys ,I need to change the impeller on my kawasaki , what tools do I need and what are the steps.


  2. #2
    Self Confessed Day Dreamer toomanytoys's Avatar
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    First you need a prop tool. It's just a 19mm (I think) "bolt" with a spline on it. You can get it from Greenhulk store.

    You need a torque wrench that will do 147nm (can't remember the ft-lb's)

    You need a handful of tools, 10, 12 and 14mm sockets with long extensions and Allen Key style for removing the ride plate and nose cone.

    My Steps
    1. Disconnect my reverse bucket. Put it in reverse and slide the sleeve off the nib
    2. Remove the Speedo Wheel and Ride Plate
    3. Remove the Steering and Trim, two 10mm bolts.
    4. Remove the Nozzle (4 x 12mm bolts I think) The bilge hose just pulls out.
    5. Undo all the hose clamps at the pump end
    6. Remove the nose cone (allen key style)
    7. Remove the 4 Pump Bolts (14mm I think) and pull it straight back
    8. Sit the pump, with impeller end up, in a strong vice (I have a vice on the end of some 50mm square tube that slides into my tow ball sleeve on the car). You will see how the shaft end can sit in the vice.
    9. Put a "breaker bar" on the prop tool and undo as normal.
    10. Keep turning and you'll have the prop in your hands.

    Do this in reverse to put it back in. Add loctite to the prop thread and torque to 147nm.

    Good luck.

    Mal.

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  4. #3
    Moderator #985 lasportsmn's Avatar
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    The ride plate does not have to be removed but does make it easier if this is the first time because the hose clamps can be in a position that you can not get to without dropping the plate.
    ****** BE SURE TO REMOVE THE SPEEDO WHEEL BEFORE DROPPING THE RIDE PLATE********
    If not you will pull the wires for the speedo wheel and could open the silicone seal and create a leak.
    If you rather not have to drop the plate in the future just reinstall the plate before tightening the hose clamps so you know you can remove them next time.

  5. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    I never have dropped the plate. I use a Mikuni 90 degree screwdriver ( used for carbs on some motorcycles)..never had a problem getting a clamp off.

  6. #5
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CAM00199.jpg 
Views:	87 
Size:	24.2 KB 
ID:	299369...I would add this to your prop removal tools....it holds the pump end ALOT easier as this part locks in the jaws of your vise...lent it to two Kawi owners changing out props...makes it SOO much easier removing props...pump end doesn't get chewed up as much...

  7. #6
    nicjak's Avatar
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    never ever removed the ride plate either, remove the rear step then remove the reverse bucket with a 12mm rachet spanner, everything then comes out from the rear first time hose clamps can also be accessed with a ring spanner then repositioned on refitment,

  8. #7
    miami heat's Avatar
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    thank you guys ........

  9. #8
    You don't need no stinkin special tools unless you can't think past what is written in the shop manual (lots of guys like that which is fine). Hold the drive shaft inside the hull with an open end wrench and use a big open end or adjustable on the pump shaft under the cone before removing the pump from the ski. (The drive shaft design has torquing flats employed) To retorque the impeller use the same open end wrench on the drive shaft and a crows foot/with torque wrench on the pump shaft with the pump reinstalled. This way you don't have to fumble with the special tool in the vise and watch it go falling on the floor cause the vise didn't hold well enough! The OEM drive shaft is a free holding tool to break the impeller free or tighten it down, the ski is a secure fixture for holding the pump casing.

    rt

  10. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    I would think a crows foot wrench would be a special tool to most backyard techs..especially in the size required.

    In my years as a wrench turner, I only needed one crows foot wrench, which I bought in 1983 and still have (it doesn't come out much if ever these days as it was a needed bit to get a starter out of a mid 80's Honda accord)

    for the uninitiated, bad things often happen when you decide to ignore service manual procedures.

    Not that you can't get the job done with a pair of vise grips and a couple of hammers.....

    I prefer cutting my beef with a proper knife and leave the sawzall for cutting off the pigs head at the next montanza

  11. #10
    Crows foot=local tool shop, used in many applications and jobs/vehicles. You can actually buy an adjustable crows foot that takes a 3/8 drive extension.

    Personally I like to eat today and will light the BBQ with whatever works best and is on hand.


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