04-26-2013, 09:58 PM #1
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
What type of material is hull on a 2001 gp1200r
another noobie question. I have some peeling on the front end of my hall. Sorry no pictures, but it appears to be peeling fiberglass. I bought the ski with some repairs from hitting dock during trailering and mooring. I am just wondering if the repair was done with the wrong material and that is why it is now peeling. What should I repair this repair with?
Thanks for the help!
04-26-2013, 10:59 PM #2
04-26-2013, 11:17 PM #3
Fiberglass, I don't think the SMC hulls came out till the later years no?
Edit: very confusing, my quick google search came to the conclusion that SMC hulls contain fiberglass. I thought the later lighter hulls were SMC. I couldn't find a conclusive answer on when Yamaha switched to SMC hulls. Apparently even the older GP's(90's) where also SMC? Can anyone confirm?
Last edited by Almost; 04-26-2013 at 11:38 PM.
04-27-2013, 12:09 AM #4
Yamaha has been SMC since mid 90s or before. Requires Epoxy resin for repair.
04-27-2013, 06:56 AM #5
04-27-2013, 07:40 AM #6
I was under the impression that the NanoXcel hulls where SMC. Are the NanoXcel hulls just thinner or did they also change the resin material to make it lighter? It looks like they started making the "NanoXcel" hull in 08.
From Yamaha Waverunner History
"NanoXcel SMC body that is 25% lighter than earlier SMC hulls to carve out a new age of WaveRunner."
Was the 2008 GPR hull a Nano hull?
04-27-2013, 07:45 AM #7
Yes I think NanoXcel is SMC but it is different somehow because they are able to make the hull thinner and lighter. I don't think the 2008 GPR is NanoXcel. NanoXcel is for the 4 stroke waverunners, I believe.
04-27-2013, 07:57 AM #8
Just stumbled on this, It explains the difference between regular SMC and NanoXcel better then anything else I could find.
Right from Yamaha
"“Nano Technology” is the breaking down of a substance to its smallest form and then using this form to create something new. In the case of NanoXcel we use a clay filler which is naturally constructed of millions of layers, all stuck together, to form a grain of clay. One layer of this clay is so thin that it becomes almost invisible, even under magnification.
In NanoXcel, the resin bonds these layers back together in a random overlapping manner. This results in what is called a lap/shear bonding joint. This process increases the bonding surface of the filler by thousands of times, thus, creating a much stronger bond than can be created using normal filler. The normal filler in SMC is Calcium Carbonate, a heavy, round grain that cannot be exfoliated into sheet form. It is bonded together in its round form, forming what is called a butt joint, which is a much weaker bond than a lap/shear joint that is created by exfoliated clay.
A hand full of calcium carbonate that is used in normal SMC is replaced with a pinch of exfoliated clay in Nano SMC reducing the weight of the NanoXcel. The smaller size of the exfoliated clay as
compared to the size of a grain of calcium carbonate creates a smoother surface."
04-29-2013, 11:27 AM #9
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
04-29-2013, 03:29 PM #10
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
- Homer, AK, D.F., MEX., Now San Antonio, TX
It doesn't matter! One would use epoxy or vinyl for either repair. There are repairs a pro could save money on by using poly but most boat repair pros just use poly for big repairs on big, heavy fishing boats and such. Some of my peers in the industry don't even carry poly anymore... The point is, epoxy has such a much better secondary bond strength that poly shouldn't even be an option for this repair.
Use epoxy. Use protection (lungs, mostly, but everything including eyes and skin).
Turn the ski upside down after securing possible fuel spills.
See how much area is damaged. Try to delaminate the repair but go slow if you have no way of knowing just how big the damaged area is.
Grind to clean, fair substrate but stop before going all of the way through if it looks like it's going to (and reply back with pics).
Layup is a topic in itself. You can do it with a little searching or post again. The key is to get the most structural repair and the least fairing compound. Plan your repair so that it is not ground (damaged) in the fairing process.
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