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Thread: Yamaha gp1300 r

  1. #1

    Yamaha gp1300 r

    I have recently purchased a new crate motor for my 04 gp1300r after the install the motor ran fine them sat up for the winter and recently was taken to the local lake for the first ride of the summer with maybe one hour total on motor it was really sluggish but would run fine up to labour 5200 rpms but the wot power was not there like it should be once back home we pulled the plugs and realized number one cylinder was not firing at all but had oil from the oil injection on the plug thinking it was an injector we pulled the fuel rail and tested all injectors with a test light adding power an all three injectors cycled an sprayed so that being we thought it has to be a spark problem but number two and three fire fine and run the motor has anyone Had this problem?? Could it be something major ? It does have the power valves on this model and at first no fuel was thought to be the problem but the injectors are good so that being it seems as it would be spark but could be a combination of both just looking for any help anyone can give me trying to not let a big investment go down the drain!!


  2. #2
    powerstroke specialist mikegp's Avatar
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    if i understood right it sounds like the spark plug wire is bad or the coil is bad. however did you check the valves operations ? make sure they are opening all the way.

  3. #3
    Will the valves cut the spark like that though?? And how can you test other possibilities

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Knippers View Post
    Will the valves cut the spark like that though?? And how can you test other possibilities

    Pull the black cdi box off and take off the back cover. Each coil has an input wire to it. Paying close attention (I think they have wire numbers on them), invert two input wires to the coils and see if the no spark condition stays on that plug or moves to a different plug. If #1 starts firing, it could be a wiring problem or something with the p/u coil in the stator housing. It probably is not that but have to rule it out. Remember to change the input wires back after testing. If nothing changed, it could be your coil or plug wire. I assume you have tried a new plug or inverted the spark plugs to see if the no spark condition stays. Before you do the wire swap, just make dang sure that the bare insulated ground wire that goes from the stator housing to the 10mm bolt on the top of your head at the front of the motor is tight on both ends. I have heard that ground wire being lose can cause a no fire condition on just the 1st cylinder for some reason. Hope this helps.

  5. #5
    BTW, the coil input wires in the black box have a connector so you don't have to cut the wires or anything. Be sure to check out that ground wire good. I chased an issue with #1 firing issue for a while. Been there and done that. None of this work is a bad job.

  6. #6
    powerstroke specialist mikegp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knippers View Post
    Will the valves cut the spark like that though?? And how can you test other possibilities
    no the valves have nothing to do with the spark. but if they don't open the engine will not get max rpms .

  7. #7
    powerstroke specialist mikegp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevyrocks3 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Knippers View Post
    Will the valves cut the spark like that though?? And how can you test other possibilities

    Pull the black cdi box off and take off the back cover. Each coil has an input wire to it. Paying close attention (I think they have wire numbers on them), invert two input wires to the coils and see if the no spark condition stays on that plug or moves to a different plug. If #1 starts firing, it could be a wiring problem or something with the p/u coil in the stator housing. It probably is not that but have to rule it out. Remember to change the input wires back after testing. If nothing changed, it could be your coil or plug wire. I assume you have tried a new plug or inverted the spark plugs to see if the no spark condition stays. Before you do the wire swap, just make dang sure that the bare insulated ground wire that goes from the stator housing to the 10mm bolt on the top of your head at the front of the motor is tight on both ends. I have heard that ground wire being lose can cause a no fire condition on just the 1st cylinder for some reason. Hope this helps.
    he can try that way or the right way, using a multimeter.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by mikegp View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by chevyrocks3 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Knippers View Post
    Will the valves cut the spark like that though?? And how can you test other possibilities

    Pull the black cdi box off and take off the back cover. Each coil has an input wire to it. Paying close attention (I think they have wire numbers on them), invert two input wires to the coils and see if the no spark condition stays on that plug or moves to a different plug. If #1 starts firing, it could be a wiring problem or something with the p/u coil in the stator housing. It probably is not that but have to rule it out. Remember to change the input wires back after testing. If nothing changed, it could be your coil or plug wire. I assume you have tried a new plug or inverted the spark plugs to see if the no spark condition stays. Before you do the wire swap, just make dang sure that the bare insulated ground wire that goes from the stator housing to the 10mm bolt on the top of your head at the front of the motor is tight on both ends. I have heard that ground wire being lose can cause a no fire condition on just the 1st cylinder for some reason. Hope this helps.
    he can try that way or the right way, using a multimeter.
    I didn't know if he had one. Please, explain to him how to test.

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