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  1. #1

    msx 110 problems

    I recently purchased 2 polaris msx 110s.w/about 45hrson them. I took them both out today to see how they ran. Here are the problems i had.

    polaris 1- i took it off the trailer and it ran great. Drove in the water just fine. after about ten minutes it started to act sluggish. it then started to act like it was going to stall out along with flashing engine lights. I took it to shore and removed the seat. I noticed all my oil was in the bottom of the jetski completely drained. I have been doing my research and both skis were filled with oil correctly(run 30seconds unscrew dipstick wipe clean and set it back on unthreaded and made sure it was just below min. of the dipstick). also no oil is inside the intercooling piping.

    polaris 2- I took this one off the trailer and it seemed snappy for about a minute. It then continued to stall out on me and i couldnt get it over 1 mph. I took the seat off and checked the oil. the oil was milky. seems to be mixed with water. and yes it is all through my intercooling piping i checked. the antifreeze was normal.

    I really appreciate anybodys help. Im not sure if maybe both oil tanks could have caused these issues? During the winter i drained both engines and cleaned out both machines.added new mobile1 15w50 full synthetic oil. i cleaned the pipings on the one bc the previous owner filled the oil to high and it went through everything. i cleaned the other one just because i wanted to make sure it was clean before i ran it.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Note: Next time you are 'testing', don't just ride around until something fails.

    First test run (especially when there are unknowns) should have been fully strapped to the trailer at the launch ramp, jet pump fully submerged. Then you can run it with the seat off and monitor everything while standing beside the machine.

    You can even apply throttle while strapped down at the ramp, since engine is receiving normal cooling from the jet pump so no time limit. Only launch it when you are sure everything is OK.

    When actually out on the water test riding, even with the seat off, it can be hard to see and check on stuff down in the hull. Much easier to do at the ramp

  3. #3
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    What K447 meant to say was... "Welcome to Green Hulk!"... plus those other words of wisdom.

    Sorry to hear about your troubled skis. And low hour skis too... just a shame. Where are you from?

    When did you acquire these? Do you know any history on them? When were they last run? When did they last run "right"?

    P1: Okay... got an oil breech somewhere. I've never heard of an oil tank leaking oil... they just leak water into the oil. To loose that much oil into the hull... I'm betting on a hose. And at $9 quart... that's painful! There is a hose coming out of the bottom of the oil tank... around the exhaust side... and connects into the lower block beneath the oil filter. This is the main supply line to the high pressure oil pump. Check both ends... if stock it's got crimp clamps on it (they're everywhere on this ski)... and feel the length of the hose for splits, tears. Next hose would be from oil cooler (front, under intercooler)... exhaust side fitting... runs along exhaust side, behind turbo-manifold... then up to upper oil connection on oil tank. This is the line you pull to "pump" out the oil on oil changes. Check this hose too. will be harder to reach behind the turbo-manifold...and that area has a plastic hose protector on it too. I'd focus looking at the ends. Next oil line you will only be able to feel with your hand. It comes off the bottom of the sump (under engine in middle) and then goes to the other oil cooler fitting (intake side). This too has a cover on it... check the ends. Next oil line is the high pressure oil lines off the rear of the head... with one going to top of oil tank and the other going to the turbo. I doubt these are the problem but check them. Last oil line is the large short hose from bottom of turbo to lower block (behind turbo). This is the turbo oil drain... check this hose too.

    Did you see the oil can light on the dash (just curious)? Let's hope you shut it down quickly enough to avoid oil starvation issues.


    P2: Hard to say on this one. Gotta start with what you identified. If coolant was normal and didn't have an oil slick in the jug... then you're probably right... it's fresh water getting in the oil. This is most commonly the oil tank. You're going to have to drain all the oil out and pull the oil tank. You'll need to pressure test the water side of it to confirm. Probably a bad leak. After finding the water leak (into the oil system) and fixing it... it will take probably at least 2 flushes of oil (use cheap Rotella 15w-40) to get all the water out of the oil system.

    Also... you have oil ingestion. Gotta get rid of those emission, recirc hoses that come off oil separator (cyclone) and go all the way to the airbox... they cause this. Run that hose off the cyclone and plumb it into an oil catch can. Now you have to pull the entire intake tract off and clean it. Turbo-to-IC hose, IC (MUCH easier on 110), IC-to-hardpipe hose, hardpipe, hardpipe-to-intake, throttle body, and then clean down inside the intake manifold through the TB hole as best you can. Carb cleaner works good. Avoid direct spraying chemicals on the 2 MAP sensors. I'd pull them off separately (they are both identical) and *gently* rinse the sensor part below the o-ring in warm soapy water. Some chemicals (gas, break clean, etc.) can damage the delicate filament on them that senses air temp. If they got oily gunk'ed bad... they may already be damaged. If the hardpipe MAP got gunked but the intake MAP didn't... clean them both and swap them. The hardpipe MAP is the one that senses air temps (in addition to pressure)... the one in the intake is only pressure. Don't cross the wires from the harness.

    That'll give you somewhere to start.

    Cheers!

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripcuda View Post
    What K447 meant to say was... "Welcome to Green Hulk!"...
    I did mean to say that!

    Oops

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by ripcuda View Post
    What K447 meant to say was... "Welcome to Green Hulk!"... plus those other words of wisdom.

    Sorry to hear about your troubled skis. And low hour skis too... just a shame. Where are you from?

    When did you acquire these? Do you know any history on them? When were they last run? When did they last run "right"?

    P1: Okay... got an oil breech somewhere. I've never heard of an oil tank leaking oil... they just leak water into the oil. To loose that much oil into the hull... I'm betting on a hose. And at $9 quart... that's painful! There is a hose coming out of the bottom of the oil tank... around the exhaust side... and connects into the lower block beneath the oil filter. This is the main supply line to the high pressure oil pump. Check both ends... if stock it's got crimp clamps on it (they're everywhere on this ski)... and feel the length of the hose for splits, tears. Next hose would be from oil cooler (front, under intercooler)... exhaust side fitting... runs along exhaust side, behind turbo-manifold... then up to upper oil connection on oil tank. This is the line you pull to "pump" out the oil on oil changes. Check this hose too. will be harder to reach behind the turbo-manifold...and that area has a plastic hose protector on it too. I'd focus looking at the ends. Next oil line you will only be able to feel with your hand. It comes off the bottom of the sump (under engine in middle) and then goes to the other oil cooler fitting (intake side). This too has a cover on it... check the ends. Next oil line is the high pressure oil lines off the rear of the head... with one going to top of oil tank and the other going to the turbo. I doubt these are the problem but check them. Last oil line is the large short hose from bottom of turbo to lower block (behind turbo). This is the turbo oil drain... check this hose too.

    Did you see the oil can light on the dash (just curious)? Let's hope you shut it down quickly enough to avoid oil starvation issues.


    P2: Hard to say on this one. Gotta start with what you identified. If coolant was normal and didn't have an oil slick in the jug... then you're probably right... it's fresh water getting in the oil. This is most commonly the oil tank. You're going to have to drain all the oil out and pull the oil tank. You'll need to pressure test the water side of it to confirm. Probably a bad leak. After finding the water leak (into the oil system) and fixing it... it will take probably at least 2 flushes of oil (use cheap Rotella 15w-40) to get all the water out of the oil system.

    Also... you have oil ingestion. Gotta get rid of those emission, recirc hoses that come off oil separator (cyclone) and go all the way to the airbox... they cause this. Run that hose off the cyclone and plumb it into an oil catch can. Now you have to pull the entire intake tract off and clean it. Turbo-to-IC hose, IC (MUCH easier on 110), IC-to-hardpipe hose, hardpipe, hardpipe-to-intake, throttle body, and then clean down inside the intake manifold through the TB hole as best you can. Carb cleaner works good. Avoid direct spraying chemicals on the 2 MAP sensors. I'd pull them off separately (they are both identical) and *gently* rinse the sensor part below the o-ring in warm soapy water. Some chemicals (gas, break clean, etc.) can damage the delicate filament on them that senses air temp. If they got oily gunk'ed bad... they may already be damaged. If the hardpipe MAP got gunked but the intake MAP didn't... clean them both and swap them. The hardpipe MAP is the one that senses air temps (in addition to pressure)... the one in the intake is only pressure. Don't cross the wires from the harness.

    That'll give you somewhere to start.

    Cheers!
    hi, and thanks.
    so far i pulled off the throtle body hose ski(#2 which had the milky $30 oil) to intercooler and i found fresh water in the intercooler (is this normal?) shouldnt the fresh water only travel inside the intercooler tubes? would that mean that when i gave it throttle the fresh water was sucked into the intake? also do you have any good suggestions where i can get map sensors fairly cheap? thanks

  6. #6
    hi and thanks
    here is what i did so far, on ski 2 (milky oil) i pulled off the throtle body hose(w/map sensor) is there supposed to be fresh water in the intercooler? or is the fresh water supposed to just travel inside the copper tubeing? because when i pulled off the throtle body hose to intercooler there was fresh water splashing around inside the intercooler. wouldnt that get sucked into the intake when i give it throttle? also if i do need new map sensors do you know where to buy fairly priced? i havent had much time to mess with the pwc's so i will keep you posted. and thanks again for your help.

  7. #7
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Water in the intercooler? No... that's bad. The water side is separate from the air side. The fresh water (not coolant) flows through the pipes in the IC while the air flows around them. Was your ski ever rolled over? Sounds like you could have a fresh water leak into the intercooler. One way to test would be to remove IC and pressure test the water connection. If they leak... they are leaking into the air side.

    If you need new MAP sensors... they both are the same... they cross ref to '06 Chevy Cobalt SS' MAP sensors ($45 on ebay)
    Bosch 0261230042... or GM# 90423637 (use gmpartsdirect.com) $45

    Cheers!

  8. #8
    i thought so. i wonder if it was properly taken care of at the end of the season? cause im thinking if water was left in the coils it wouldnt take much to burst those lines. especially with -30 below temps in the winter where i live. i had the intercooler off (i had to replace the turbo because it set up) "fun" so i know there was no water in it before we took them on the lake. i will be checking out the intercooler in the next couple of days. thanks!

  9. #9
    hi, i have a good used intercooler comming for ski#2 . i have a question about the oil tank, is there supposed to be a clunking sound inside when i shake it? i suspect that it is because both oil tanks do it. also is there a way to take these oil tanks apart? i would like to clean out the milky oil by hand if i can.also i havn't found the cause of the oil leak in ski #1 but it completly drained the oil tank i'm suspecting the bottom hose. thanks

  10. #10
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    No... and Yes. The clunking sound you hear is the lower oil chamber baffle that has come loose. It should not be loose. I've heard this can cause foaming of the oil which is bad.

    As for taking them apart... it's not easy, but can be done. Read this whole thread... best info about this

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...il+tank+baffle

    Cheers!

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